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Carvin BX1200

#201
bassplayer7770 said:
Although, some of the new B2000 stories kinda scare me, I will agree with Sundogue for now. I was having minor issues with my first BX1200. I called them, and they suggested I ship it back to Service. I did, and they sent me a brand new one the same day they received my old one. The new one was a newer, lighter weight model. I still had the minor issues (popping when using the Graphic EQ and Mute switches on the amp) with the new amp, but, now that I'm using the Effects Loop, those issues are gone.
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The percentages are in our favor that the entire line of ampheads aren't flawed. At least Carvin isn't Toyota, and playing bass (despite it's inherent pitfalls :D) isn't life threatening.

Both of you had issues running in bridged mode. That makes me wonder a bit. I haven't run mine in bridged mode yet. Perhaps the noise floor is raised while bridged as I have yet to hear any noise with the EQ or mute switch, but I run both sides mono.
 
#203
ShawnStones said:
Yes, center jack only. With the 12 gauge speakon cable I got with the head from Carvin.
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Here's a thought. You have it plugged in the center jack (for bridged mode) but are you absolutely sure the amp is bridged? That switch, even when in mono mode is already recessed pretty far (to prevent accidental switching).

If you use the bridged speaker jack, but run it in mono the amp will overheat and shut down. I'm not saying you don't know what you are doing, but I know that switch is pretty funky being so far recessed to being with.
 
#204
Sundogue said:
Here's a thought. You have it plugged in the center jack (for bridged mode) but are you absolutely sure the amp is bridged? That switch, even when in mono mode is already recessed pretty far (to prevent accidental switching).

If you use the bridged speaker jack, but run it in mono the amp will overheat and shut down. I'm not saying you don't know what you are doing, but I know that switch is pretty funky being so far recessed to being with.
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Yup, that little Bridge/Mono switch on the back is recessed, so be absolutely certain it is set in Bridge mode if you're using the center speaker jack.

The switches for the Footswitch are also recessed, and it took a little experimenting for me to get them setup so my Footswitch worked like I wanted it to (left switch=Mute, right switch=Effects Loop).
 
#205
Yes, double checked that it was in bridge mode before I even plugged in my bass.

Here's a question. The power amp level control? Where do you guys have this set? Are you guys using this like a volume control as well, or leaving it dimed and using the volume control as the sole volume control?
 
#206
ShawnStones said:
Yes, double checked that it was in bridge mode before I even plugged in my bass.

Here's a question. The power amp level control? Where do you guys have this set? Are you guys using this like a volume control as well, or leaving it dimed and using the volume control as the sole volume control?
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I have my Power Amp 1 volume control at about 8 (3 o'clock), and then I adjust the Master Volume accordingly.
 
#207
ShawnStones said:
Yes, double checked that it was in bridge mode before I even plugged in my bass.

Here's a question. The power amp level control? Where do you guys have this set? Are you guys using this like a volume control as well, or leaving it dimed and using the volume control as the sole volume control?
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Well, currently I am bi-amping, but for most gigs my lows in the Power Amp 1 control is set to about 2 and my Master is up to about 4. The Power Amp 2 (which is driving my little dedicated mids) is set at about 4 or 5 to balance.

The higher the Power Amp controls are set (relative to the Master) the more distortion you'll introduce (not unlike the Pre and Post gain on a guitar amp, just not nearly as noticeable as bass speakers won't break up the same way). But unless you are lighting up the clip light, don't worry about it. If you want it cleaner then you should back off the Power Amp control and raise the Master.

Is it possible that you dimed the Power Amp control and you were clipping and that caused it to run hot and shut down?
 
#208
FYI - I have a bx1200 which was popping when using the eq/mute switches. I found when I did not have the tuner out connected to my tuner it was ok - no popping. This is either bridged or not.

So I changed the AC cord on the tuner and reconnected - the popping stopped.

So far (almost a year) it's been a great amp.

--Kevin
 
#209
I figured the power amp control on the head was the same as the controls on an actual power amp, which I always had turned all the way up on previous power amps. The clip light was coming on, but only here and there, "peaking" of course. Never to the point where the light was consistently on though.

So, maybe turn down the power amp knob and turn the master volume up? And hopefully it won't overheat? We have practice tomorrow, I'll give it a shot. I hope that's it.
 
#210
ShawnStones said:
I figured the power amp control on the head was the same as the controls on an actual power amp, which I always had turned all the way up on previous power amps. The clip light was coming on, but only here and there, "peaking" of course. Never to the point where the light was consistently on though.

So, maybe turn down the power amp knob and turn the master volume up? And hopefully it won't overheat? We have practice tomorrow, I'll give it a shot. I hope that's it.
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Well, it's possible that's what was happening. You should be able to turn the Power Amp control up quite high without damage, but there are clip indicator lights there for a reason.

Not that you need to keep the Master up full on and then use the Power Amp controls for volume, but that will give you the most clean headroom. The other way will cause the amp run hotter, though it shouldn't really cause your problem unless it clipped enough to cause the shutdown.

All you can do is give it a shot and see. Carvin certainly would help you out though if indeed it is defective.
 
#211
ShawnStones said:
I figured the power amp control on the head was the same as the controls on an actual power amp, which I always had turned all the way up on previous power amps. The clip light was coming on, but only here and there, "peaking" of course. Never to the point where the light was consistently on though.

So, maybe turn down the power amp knob and turn the master volume up? And hopefully it won't overheat? We have practice tomorrow, I'll give it a shot. I hope that's it.
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My Power Amp 1 volume is on 8, and I've never noticed the clip light flashing at all.
 
#212
bassplayer7770 said:
My Power Amp 1 volume is on 8, and I've never noticed the clip light flashing at all.
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A lot of that has to do with how hot your bass signal is, how high your Drive setting is, how much low end you have dialed in and how your Active/Passive switch is used. I have an active bass yet I run it with the switch set to Passive, so my signal is pretty hot going in. That alone can account for my setting on the Power Amp control being far less.

Your "8" could be my "5" and visa versa. In general, as long as your Power Amp control light isn't lit, you're fine regardless of the actual setting it is at.
 
#213
Sundogue said:
A lot of that has to do with how hot your bass signal is, how high your Drive setting is, how much low end you have dialed in and how your Active/Passive switch is used. I have an active bass yet I run it with the switch set to Passive, so my signal is pretty hot going in. That alone can account for my setting on the Power Amp control being far less.

Your "8" could be my "5" and visa versa. In general, as long as your Power Amp control light isn't lit, you're fine regardless of the actual setting it is at.
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Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that all settings would be the same for all basses, but I thought it important to mention that I have not noticed the Clip light flashing on my amp at all (even though my Power Amp 1 level is fairly high). I also keep my Active/Passive switch on Passive for both of my basses, but I've adjusted the output on my active Hanewinckel to evenly match my passive Yamaha.
 
#214
bassplayer7770 said:
Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that all settings would be the same for all basses, but I thought it important to mention that I have not noticed the Clip light flashing on my amp at all (even though my Power Amp 1 level is fairly high). I also keep my Active/Passive switch on Passive for both of my basses, but I've adjusted the output on my active Hanewinckel to evenly match my passive Yamaha.
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Yeah, I agree that the Power Amp controls can be set quite high without the clip light coming on. I just wanted to make sure he wasn't also adding others things into the equation that might just take it over the top.

And one point I forgot to mention...(a tad bit important ;))...I have my mini 215 wired up with two 4 ohm 15's for a 2 ohm load. That might have just a bit to do with why my Power Amp and Master settings are so low compared to yours. :D
 
#215
Well, I turned the Power Amp level control down to 5, and turned the drive and master volume up to 3 1/2 and 3.....got through about 45 minutes of practice, and it shut down again, felt the top...once again, super hot. I'm at a loss. I sent Carvin another e-mail, they're sending out a call tag and this thing is heading back to California. And now I'm without an amp for what I can only assume will be atleast a week and a half. Lamesauce.
 
#216
ShawnStones said:
Well, I turned the Power Amp level control down to 5, and turned the drive and master volume up to 3 1/2 and 3.....got through about 45 minutes of practice, and it shut down again, felt the top...once again, super hot. I'm at a loss. I sent Carvin another e-mail, they're sending out a call tag and this thing is heading back to California. And now I'm without an amp for what I can only assume will be atleast a week and a half. Lamesauce.
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Is there a way they can send you out a new amp at the same time they receive theirs? I've read of people on this board doing that before.
 

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