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Double Bass Collapsed top- help!

Hello talkbass!

So I have this mirecourt French bass that has a collapsed top. The g side around the bridge is the major culprit. Generally, the top is pretty much flat with a slight hump.

This is my forever bass, so, I’m just wondering if it’s worth even looking into reshaping or whatever course of action that would help?

Is it worth doing sonically as well? She’s the best bass I’ve ever played so knowing if I can do something to improve the sound is something I’m always chasing.

Or should I just love her for the way she is now?

This was not because of me! Just so nobody tries to roast me because internet. Was the way she was when I bought her.

Thank you!
 

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How old is the bass now?
(Have a look at the label inside.)
Just curious: who built the bass?

Due to the photos the sunken part is on the E side, not the G side.

I have the same situation on mine. The amount very similar, maybe even more.

I went to one luthier for inspection and talked to one more who gave me an explanation.

First thing to check is the bass bar. The ends may have become loose. I used a small webcam on a stick and a led chain to make photos from all sides over the whole length of my bass bar, but in my case the bass bar was OK.
(Link to photos at the bottom.)

The first luthier showed me more drastically sunken tops that he needed to replace by a new one. They were more on the thin side.
(My bass is a heavy built 4/4, 110 cm string scale 5-string. The top is about 8 mm thick at the f-holes.)

But he said that this would not be needed on mine (yet). Just having a look that it doesn’t get worse.

BTW, when I visited him my bass was about 30 years old. The sinking process on mine was very slow.

You might want to ask the seller if it was slow (over several years) and maybe how long it stayed at the actual position.

Since I didn’t know the real reason, I installed an adjustable saddle (Moser HVU) myself to take some pressure off the top. It has three positions, the lowest a bit above the original one. I tried all three positions, the lowest very similar in sound and volume to the original one, the middle OK but a bit weaker and the top one dropped the volume too much. So I’m using the middle position but can change to the lowest if I think I need it.
It might not have been needed, but it was rather inexpensive and I could do the work myself and it would be no big task for a luthier either.

Then I talked to the second luthier (I didn’t had the bass with me as I wanted to show a product demonstration, mainly for someone else only.
After the demonstration I told him about the situation of my bass and he said that the top most probably shrinked because of the wood which might have been too fresh. Shrinkage is mostly perpendicular to the grain, so the smaller width of the top pulled the top down. This process happens mostly during the first (ten?) years when the wood changes chemically (which a third luthier told me), so if your bass is older it might stay as it is.

The third luthier that had my bass first (but I didn’t realize the sunken top as a potential problem then) told me he needed to shorten the soundpost a bit (and set it a bit further away from the bridge foot as it was too close). That might have been a result of the shrinked top as the soundpost didn’t allow sinkage on the G side and got more pressure on it.
The main reason to repositioning the soundpost was getting a nicer arco response and it also helped that single element pickups got all five strings equally well. Before that I needed two element pickups.

So it might depend on the thickness of the top (how thick is yours at the f-holes?) or if the sinking continues or not. Measure the distance of the top height at the f-holes once a month and write it down. You may have measuring errors, but over a longer time you we see if it goes further down or not.

Just a reminder: check the bass bar!
This is most important.
If you cannot do that yourself or are unsure about the diagnosis have a luthier check it.

Anything else written above is irrelevant if the bass bar is not fixed over the whole length.

Here is a link with the photos of my bass bar which is well attached and the top view at the f-holes:


Good luck!

BTW, your bridge seems to be bent backwards (toward the tailpiece) which is rather unusual. Typically it be is the other way round. Steaming and clamping might bring it back to shape as it is not too much yet.
 
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If it’s stable (i.e., not sinking further), sounding good and isn’t getting in the way of the way you want it set up then getting the top reshaped is solely down to aesthetic preference and resale/collector’s value.

Reshaping the top is extraordinarily labor intensive and time consuming work. That is, it’s very expensive. If you’ve got a two hundred year old English bass insured for $150k I’d say it’s well worth it. For a 20th-century Mirecourt/Mittenwald/other European shop bass I’d say a slightly sunken top is par for the course and not a big deal.

Get a luthier experienced in restorations to take a gander. I see you’re in Nova Scotia; in the Maritimes, I’d seek out Donald Gorman in Charlottetown. There’s Erin Ventura in Halifax, as well, I’ve heard good things about her (though I haven’t personal experience with her work).
 
My last bass (an Arvi) had a super thin top that had sunken in a few places. A luthier told me it would eventually probably need to be reshaped, but I owned the bass for over a decade and the top seemed stable the whole time I had it. I suspect it did its sinking years before I got it and reached an equilibrium. That bass sounded great, too.

It's definitely worth having your bass evaluated - the top can potentially be reinforced (my Arvi had a few cleats near the F-holes that were for that purpose) and you want to make sure the soundpost and bass bar are okay. If so, it may well be that the bass is fine as-is and you should just enjoy it.
 
I would not say that reshaping a sunken top is an overly scary or complicated task for a skilled double bass luthier. I do it all of the time on both carved and ply tops and have a very specific dedicated work station for just this task including the moulds, a go bar deck , heat system, and a vacuum press, so it can handle almost anything I throw at it very efficiently.

The main source of it being labor intensive is all the work to remove the top and then re-attatch it + any accompanying adjustments to the setup. The actual sunken area work is usually less than a dozen hours; sometimes half that. It is important that you find the right person with the proper skill set; 'better not to use someone on their maiden voyage who always wanted to try this or the guy at the local guitar shop.

On an older bass it is also a nice opportunity for a 75 year tune up to take care of any other issues inside the box.
 
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