Color Before or After Binding?

[NedRyerson]

I have a WIP that's a raw body right now, but will be installing a top and bottom binding. For color, it's going to be a tinted lacquer in a burst pattern. So....

(For those with greater experience in this arena than I) Should I apply the binding first, then mask it off, spray the burst, remove the mask and scrape any overspray from the binding or spray the burst to satisfaction, then glue on the binding?

Solid body electric with ABS binding material.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

I’ve usually either taped the binding or just taped the sides and scraped the top after painting. If you’re going to tape the top of the binding you want something along the lines of the 3M 1/8” vinyl striping tape. It’s nice and flexible and will go around the inside of cutaways. The blue 3M seemed to work better around corners and things then whatever brand the orange tape I bought was, FBS maybe? The orange tape worked, I just needed to go back over it and burnish it down especially on the tight turns. The 3M just stuck. You may have to go to a body shop supply or order online. I don’t think the auto parts places have 1/8” tape.

Scraping it all can work to. You run the risk of accidentally scraping inside the line of the binding or having a chunk of paint come up as you’re scraping, depending, of course, on what kind of paint you’re using. If I remember correctly Brad Angove used Oxford lacquers and scraped binding on his last build and paint series. He should have a scraping video on that there youtubes


https://www.amazon.com/3M-06404-Vin...ocphy=1026990&hvtargid=pla-569797757974&psc=1

 

[NedRyerson]

In your experience, would you recommend against the "color first, binding later" approach?

 

[Matt Liebenau]

In your experience, would you recommend against the "color first, binding later" approach?

I’ve never tried that so I can’t say. Depending on what finish you use the binding glue could interact with or reactivate the finish which could get “difficult.” Another thing to consider is that binding needs to be scraped often both top and sides which, in my mind anyway, is going to be difficult with a finished finish, so to speak. Maybe someone who has tried that approach will chime in.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

In your experience, would you recommend against the "color first, binding later" approach?

Yes, I would recommend against that. To add to what Matt said, installing binding involves trimming the binding with files and scrapers, to make it flush with the wood surfaces next to it. That's going to be really hard to do if those surfaces are painted.

 

[NedRyerson]

Ah, yes. Good points. Thank you both!

 

[Basvarken]

Binding first. That's how it's done.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Scraping binding is an acquired skill I've never... acquired. On my bound Ric clone build, i masked it using the 3M 471 "Indigo" tape. I used the 1/8" tape right at the binding line and then cheap tape beyound that. It's flexible, and will take a tight radius without kinking. I burnished the edge down and "sealed" the edge with a light dust of clearcoat, and got an incredibly clean line out of it, literally only a few hailrline sized bleed-through that came off easily with a razor blade. I can't recommend this stuff more highly:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Masking-Striping-Separation-High-Temperature/dp/B005EB72WY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=W8TGJJK79IBC&keywords=3m+471+indigo+tape+1/8"&qid=1697301236&sprefix=3m+471+indigo+tape+1/8+,aps,93&sr=8-3

 

[NedRyerson]

I appreciate the recommendation & link! Thank you, GiG.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I just noticed that @Matt Liebenau beat me to it, same tape. So now you have 2 recommendations, stuff works! Don’t skip the edge burnish and dust coat of clear to seal the edge before shooting Color coats.