Compare Fat Beams to Sun Beams

[randysmojo]

I have never had Fat Beams on my current bass, but used them on another and loved them. I have Sun Beams on my current Jazz bass, and although they are sounding good with the right now i am wondering how they measure up to Fat Beams on the same instrument. I didn't know if they would be too much "brighter" than the Sun Beams. I don't really want something that would be too much brighter, but I would like a little less mid-range. I find round core strings seem to pop out the harmonics better for me, but if I had to, hex core would be OK.

 

[mmbongo]

Sunbeams = nickel
FatBeams = stainless steel

Both are round core, so tension is similar...Fat Beams maybe a hair tighter.

FatBeams will be brighter sounding and rougher feeling since they are stainless steel. They will have less midrange than Sunbeams.

Both are great, just depends on what you're looking for.

You might consider Dragon Skins, which are similar to FatBeams/HiBeams but are coated. So they should basically sound like FatBeams but less bright and smoother feeling. But I don't know that for sure....yet. I haven't used them. You can get any of them here, and even build custom sets:
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[randysmojo]

I know the materials and their inherent properties, but has anyone actually tried out both so they can attest to their direct differences? The Sun Beams did seem brighter than a lot of Nickel plated strings I have tried. I know the Fat Beams will probably be some what brighter than Sun Beams, but how much? A lot, or not too much? Bassstringsonline is the first place I look for strings.

 

[RFMac]

mmbongo has summed it up perfectly for you. I have tried both on the same MM Sterling I own. He is right on the mark. The sunbeams have more midrange, most definately. The fatbeams, more high end pop but more mid range emphasis than your regular highbeams. I like sunbeams and nickel roundwounds in general much more thanks to their smooth feel and 'middy' emphasis. If I were looking for a purely scooped sound I would skip the Fatbeams and go directly to Highbeams. By the way DR Lowriders have a much better harmonic strength than either. They are a little stiffer thanks to their hex core but are still pretty low tension and playable when compared to other hex core strings. Same goes as far the nickel vs. stainless debate goes. However the lowriders have more 'growl' (low mid is growl is my book) for whatever reason regardless of nickeplating Stainless steel construction. Cheers!

 

[mmbongo]

I know the materials and their inherent properties, but has anyone actually tried out both so they can attest to their direct differences? The Sun Beams did seem brighter than a lot of Nickel plated strings I have tried. I know the Fat Beams will probably be some what brighter than Sun Beams, but how much? A lot, or not too much? Bassstringsonline is the first place I look for strings.

I guess I should have mentioned I do use both

Compared to most nickel strings, Sunbeams are not as bright but they have more midrange. Even Nickel LoRiders are a good bit brighter than Sunbeams. Neither are bright and clangy like D'Addario XL's.

FatBeams are brighter, but not clangy. The great thing about FatBeams is their bottom end.

 

[randysmojo]

Thanks. That was the more detailed description I was hoping for. I wouldn't want to try Fatbeams if they had too much bright emphasis, but prefer the less midrange. Don't want total scooped though. I'll give the Sunbeams a few live gigs to see if maybe it's better in the mix. Then try the Fatbeams.

 

[randysmojo]

mmbongo has summed it up perfectly for you. I have tried both on the same MM Sterling I own. He is right on the mark. The sunbeams have more midrange, most definately. The fatbeams, more high end pop but more mid range emphasis than your regular highbeams. I like sunbeams and nickel roundwounds in general much more thanks to their smooth feel and 'middy' emphasis. If I were looking for a purely scooped sound I would skip the Fatbeams and go directly to Highbeams. By the way DR Lowriders have a much better harmonic strength than either. They are a little stiffer thanks to their hex core but are still pretty low tension and playable when compared to other hex core strings. Same goes as far the nickel vs. stainless debate goes. However the lowriders have more 'growl' (low mid is growl is my book) for whatever reason regardless of nickeplating Stainless steel construction. Cheers!

The hex core I was having issues with getting harmonics on where not DR, so I will have to try the Lowriders for sure. I'm writing some new stuff with harmonics in it, so anything to make them jump out better!