Completely Loosening, Then Tightening Again...?

[RASHOSS]

I recently added a Spector Euro5 RST to my quiver! I'm playing it, and my Kiesel Icon 5, for a reggae project and am always seeking the fattest, heaviest bass tones possible.

I installed flat wounds on the Spector and tape wounds on my Kiesel. A/B-ing the two guitars side-by-side, the Spector (Aguilar pickups) definitely appears to have more high end, than the Kiesel (but lower total output). I'm now wondering if I should have gone the other way around (flats on Kiesel and tapes on the Spector), to dampen the Spector.

What is your opinion about removing the strings from the guitars and swapping them, as relates to potential damage I would be doing to the strings? Does completely loosening them, then tightening them again cause them to be weaker, or can they handle that no problem?

 

[Gorn]

It's not great for the strings but it's not terrible. People swap strings all the time. I've bought and sold used strings. You just want to be careful re-installing. Setting witness points. Making sure they're not twisted. All that jazz.

 

[Bassaga]

Shouldn't be a problem, as far as my experience goes. I've got a set of tapewounds that I've put on and off seven or eight times, and they're fine. I feel like the cores are getting fragile where they wrap aground the tuning pegs, so I'm nervous to move then much more, but they've been through a lot already without issue.

Actually, with roundwounds I've found that this process can refresh their sound a bit. I know you're not using rounds, but it's always seemed to me to even be a positive thing to loosen and retighten strings (within reason)

 

[michael_t]

What is your opinion about removing the strings from the guitars and swapping them, as relates to potential damage I would be doing to the strings? Does completely loosening them, then tightening them again cause them to be weaker, or can they handle that no problem?

It can be done as long as you take some precautions. The tricky part is handling the coiled ends that come off of the posts so the core wire doesn't weaken in the process.

Do these basses have the type of bridge with little holes the strings need to be threaded through? Or, are they the quick-release type?

 

[michael_t]

I should also mention the importance of keeping the silks intact on the tapewounds specifically as the silks are the essential part of the construction keeping the outer nylon cover from unravelling.

 

[Vodyanoi]

During the defretting/shimming process of my project PB-20, I had to remove and reinstall the strings (Chromes) ~10 times, through a regular non-quick-release bridge. I didn't plan to keep them anyway... until I did. Even though the silk part appears rough, frayed even, I didn't experience any tuning or breaking problems. YMMV and all that, but I doubt you'll face any problems.

 

[lermgalieu]

I wouldn't worry about it. I've done it a million times. Just don't let things get twisted, follow the advice above.

 

[J-Bass RMR]

I don't worry about it - been doing it for years.

As others have mentioned, take your time and some care when handling the coiled end - especially with tradition fender bridges. I even have a little piece of shrink tubing I'll use to protect the silk when going through the bridge holes - it works.

The only strings that I've had an issue with are EB Cobalt Flats seem to have a tendency to snap at the post when bringing back up to tension - even when they're not completely removed.

Roto 77s (and to some extent, Labella DTFs, IIRC) have a coarse wire outer wrap around the post-end that will break, but it's never caused string failure.

 

[RASHOSS]

It can be done as long as you take some precautions. The tricky part is handling the coiled ends that come off of the posts so the core wire doesn't weaken in the process.

Do these basses have the type of bridge with little holes the strings need to be threaded through? Or, are they the quick-release type?

The Spector has quick release bridge (just lift strings out). I think my Kiesel has the same, but I don't have it here to look at (in shop getting tune-up).

 

[michael_t]

The Spector has quick release bridge (just lift strings out). I think my Kiesel has the same, but I don't have it here to look at (in shop getting tune-up).

What about the positioning of the tuner posts?

 

[RASHOSS]

What about the positioning of the tuner posts?

Good question. I'm assuming the tuning posts need to be in the same general design (best case scenario) so length of string matches one another, and string coil doesn't need to be stretched out?

 

[michael_t]

Good question. I'm assuming the tuning posts need to be in the same general design (best case scenario) so length of string matches one another, and string coil doesn't need to be stretched out?

That's right. For example, trying to move a set of strings that were cut for a 4+1 headstock to a 3+2 headstock can be tricky.

 

[Deleted member 271037]

There are several situations where I would personally avoid this (based on real life experience):

-Round core strings. I've had both TI Jazz Flats and GHS Balanced Nickels go bad after loosening the tension completely. The strings didn't disintegrate but developed weird overtones (and also made weird metallic "ping" noises when bringing them back up to tension). I suspect the wrapping may have loosened or shifted slightly along the core.

-Any situation that would involve straightening any sharp bends/kinks already made in the strings. This would of course include moving the strings between basses with different tuner/headstock configurations. Some strings seem to be made of more brittle metal than others and the core will break easier if you try to straighten any sharp bends. Rotosound and TI Superalloys seem to have a more brittle core than most (in my experience). Some strings (like D'Addario) seem to handle this kind of abuse better than others though.

-Any situation where a different length between ball end to saddle will make the "kink" over the saddle appear in FRONT of the saddle. Going from through-body to top-loading will obviously be the worst but two different bridge designs, or even the exact same bridge installed in a slightly different position, can be enough to cause problems.

And then there are of course situations where the string lengths won't be even be remotely compatible, like if you're trying to move strings between a 2+2 headstock and a 4 inline headstock.

Moving the strings between two very similar basses, like from a Fender P to a Fender J, will usually not be a problem though.

 

[lowplaces]

Witness points come into play ?

 

[J-Bass RMR]

That's right. For example, trying to move a set of strings that were cut for a 4+1 headstock to a 3+2 headstock can be tricky.

Witness points come into play ?

I was thinking in terms of same scale / "orientation" - but these are both important considerations.

At the same time, the OP has nothing to lose by trying, especially if he's not satisfied with the current arrangement. (I believe both those basses are 3 + 2)?

He'll at least have a good enough idea whether the strings are a better fit for each bass.
Then he can make the decision to install a new set, or or try something different