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Confused On String Length

M

Mannas

Jan 1, 2010
84
23
#1
So I bought strings for my bass and didn't measure before I did. I just got them in and they are too short. I don't know what size I actually need. It's a 34" scale so I ordered what looked right. The measurements from bridge to peg are:

E - 37.5"
A - 38"
D - 39.5"
G - 40"

I'm trying to put GHS Precision Flats Lights on them but need to make sure I get the right length this time. I thought I was in the ballpark but the ribbon starts WAY lower than expected. Any help is appreciated.


20190930_181318.jpg
 
#6
Mannas said:
It's a 34" scale so I ordered what looked right.
Click to expand...
Alas, current parlance is based on an older two-term opposition where you tended to only have "long" (Fender scale i.e. 34") vs. "short" (more or less 30"). Both worked as standards, in that the three main Fender models made up the bulk of the market but most of the competition adopted the other scale (up to at least the mid-Sixties).
In other words, "long" and "short" were only such relative to each other, and "long", in particular, was not "longer than average/standard", but the standard in and of itself, and overwhelmingly so come the Seventies.

"Medium scale" appeared much later (not an expert, but I'd venture early Eighties in Japan? Could be wrong), and equals a length right in between the two older standards, i.e. 32", hence:
- it definitely doesn't equal "standard" or the "norm" (it being rarer than short, let alone long);
- its winding length requirement is 34~35.5" and even the longest MS strings are usually not long enough for 34" scale basses, unless a little peeling of the silk reveals that the exposed section reaches the nut untapered and is therefore OK (silk can be removed without ill effects, even completely unless it's on a black nylon tapewound, where it is needed to hold the tape in place).

[The above omits the further complicating issue of string-anchoring being often far enough from the bridge saddles (e.g. string-thru-body or separate tailpiece) to require a different conventionally-labelled string set than the actual scale would lead you to think (medium or even long instead of short). Always check the actual lower and upper length requirement of your bass (ball-end stop to nut, and to first tuner) against the winding length (ball to silk or taper) of the string as disclosed by the manufacturer.]
 
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#7
HaphAsSard said:
Alas, current parlance is based on an older two-term opposition where you tended to only have "long" (Fender scale i.e. 34") vs. "short" (more or less 30"). Both worked as standards, in that the three main Fender models made up the bulk of the market but most of the competition adopted the other scale (up to at least the mid-Sixties).
In other words, "long" and "short" were only such relative to each other, and "long", in particular, was not "longer than average/standard", but the standard in and of itself, and overwhelmingly so come the Seventies.

"Medium scale" appeared much later (not an expert, but I'd venture early Eighties in Japan? Could be wrong), and equals a length right in between the two older standards, i.e. 32", hence:
- it definitely doesn't equal "standard" or the "norm" (it being rarer than short, let alone long);
- its winding length requirement is 34~35.5" and even the longest MS strings are usually not long enough for 34" scale basses, unless a little peeling of the silk reveals that the exposed section reaches the nut untapered and is therefore OK (silk can be removed without ill effects, even completely unless it's on a black nylon tapewound, where it is needed to hold the tape in place).

[The above omits the further complicating issue of string-anchoring being often far enough from the bridge saddles (e.g. string-thru-body or separate tailpiece) to require a different conventionally-labelled string set than the actual scale would lead you to think (medium or even long instead of short). Always check the actual lower and upper length requirement of your bass (ball-end stop to nut, and to first tuner) against the winding length (ball to silk or taper) of the string as disclosed by the manufacturer.]
Click to expand...
Now, try this with all the various grand piano sizes. :D

Any piano around 5' to 5 1/2′ is considered a Baby Grand. Larger 5' range pianos, such as 5' 7” and 5' 8” are sometimes called Parlor Grands. Pianos from around 6' up to around 6' 9” are called Grand Pianos. 6' 10” up to around 7 1/2' are called Semi Concert Grand Pianos.
Click to expand...
:woot:

Grand-Piano-Size-Comparison.jpg
 
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#9
Thank you all. I'm gonna return what I got and see if I can get the right ones. It killed my excitement. I was all ready to slap them on and go to town and realized my own stupid mistake. I guess I'll have to sit in anticipation for a few more days.
 
#14
While you should get longer strings next time, as you've wound the other 3 on the bass, and probably can't return the set you've got, you might be able to still use the E string you have there. The string under tension will stretch about a quarter of an inch, which gets you closer (though not quite there). The silks can be removed without harming the string. Take a knife, get most of it off, and for that last little bit of fuzz, a match (silks burn easily) will get the last bit off. So long as the winding is full width under tension though the nut, you're good. Good luck!
 
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#15
micguy said:
While you should get longer strings next time, as you've wound the other 3 on the bass, and probably can't return the set you've got...
Click to expand...

The other three are the old ones to be replaced. Looks like the OP simply took the E string out of the package and put it against the bass without cutting it yet. Shouldn't be a problem returning it as GHS does not seal their package like some other manufacturers do.
 
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