Construction folks - drywall alternatives?

[RichterScale]

Split level, basement is ground level on the downhill side and back, and only about 3' into the ground on the uphill side and half the front. I'll get some pics.

Gotcha. For some reason I had a typical basement space in my head while reading.
The split level setup changes the whole scenario.
Definitely needs to be finished space.
Since there's not a moisture issue and no concern of mold if reusing drywall, there's paneling that you can glue up over the drywall in areas like the laundry. That way you don't have to worry about water splashing on the wall and it can be wiped down easily. FRP panels are good. Sherwin Williams Carry's a thin plastic wall panel.
We've used both at work. It's a school and has held up well considering what it endures. Probably last forever in a residential garage or laundry room.

 

[RichterScale]

Fwiw, I never use the "green board" drywall. Maybe if I was a contractor and required to by code. But it's just drywall with green dye and mold inhibitor (that doesn't work) in the outer paper layer.
It still molds and still falls apart if wet. I would use it in place of regular drywall if it was free, or the same price and regular drywall wasn't available. But I would never use it anywhere that I wouldn't use regular drywall and certainly wouldn't pay extra for it.

 

[bholder]

For some reason I had a typical basement space in my head while reading.

Yeah I should have provided clearer more complete details from the start. Lesson learned.

 

[T_Bone_TL]

holder, please let us know what the building authority has to say about using trusscore with no drywall underneath it in a firewall, (which I assume the wall of an attached garage in common with the rest of the structure would be).

The manufacturer fire information you linked earlier states that it is NOT suitable as a fire wall, but it can be applied over a rated material such as drywall or cement board that's been appropriately finished for the firewall. It gets a class A flame spread of 10, while smoke developed number is 380.

If a fire-rated wall assembly is specified by code, Trusscore Wall&CeilingBoard must be installed on top of a fire-rated wall or ceiling assembly. Trusscore Wall&CeilingBoard does not meet the requirements for fire resistance where a building code calls for the installation of a fire-rated assembly. It is, however, possible to install Wall&CeilingBoard overtop of a product such as cement board or drywall that meets those requirements and thereby achieves code requirements. When specified, the joints and fastener heads of the fire-rated wall assemblies should be finished per the manufacturer’s recommendations and test specifications. Which can include taping and mudding joints to a Level 1 finish and covering fastener heads or using products like mudless fire tape as a finishing component for fire-rated assemblies approved and listed to ASTM E119, Standard Test Methods for Fire Tests of Building Construction and Materials or CAN/ULC S101, Standard Methods of Fire Endurance Test of Building Construction and Materials for use in the United States and Canada.

 

[bholder]

The manufacturer fire information you linked earlier states that it is NOT suitable as a fire wall, but it can be applied over a rated material such as drywall or cement board that's been appropriately finished for the firewall. It gets a class A flame spread of 10, while smoke developed number is 380.

Thanks. So that probably means drywall for the garage, then - I can live with that.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

T_Bone_TL,

Thanks for delving deeper into this. I came across trusscore while searching for some other building materials, and I am not planning to make use of it as far as I know at this time.

I made a statement above that I assumed a wall shared in common with an occupied space, and a garage would be considered a fire wall, but I am really only making an uneducated guess when I say that. So if anyone here actually knows what they are talking about, maybe they can educate all of us.

 

[MJ5150]

Fwiw, I never use the "green board" drywall. Maybe if I was a contractor and required to by code. But it's just drywall with green dye and mold inhibitor (that doesn't work) in the outer paper layer.
It still molds and still falls apart if wet. I would use it in place of regular drywall if it was free, or the same price and regular drywall wasn't available. But I would never use it anywhere that I wouldn't use regular drywall and certainly wouldn't pay extra for it.

It's not meant to stop mold, but mold resistant more so than standard drywall. The 'mold inhibitor' is nothing more than thicker paper and a wax coating, intended to help block out moisture. If any drywall gets moldy, it is not the failure of the drywall, but rather a moisture problem that was left undetected/ignored long enough for mold to develop. For green board, it went undetected/ignored even longer, this is usually a bigger problem in the end contributing to a homeowners impression it didn't work, was a waste of money, or some kind of rip off.
It's the same as fire resistant drywall. It's not meant to stop fires, only to provide an additional layer of protection that allows more time for people to escape while trying to slow down and contain the fire.

-Mike

 

[RichterScale]

It's not meant to stop mold, but mold resistant more so than standard drywall. The 'mold inhibitor' is nothing more than thicker paper and a wax coating, intended to help block out moisture. If any drywall gets moldy, it is not the failure of the drywall, but rather a moisture problem that was left undetected/ignored long enough for mold to develop. For green board, it went undetected/ignored even longer, this is usually a bigger problem in the end contributing to a homeowners impression it didn't work, was a waste of money, or some kind of rip off.
It's the same as fire resistant drywall. It's not meant to stop fires, only to provide an additional layer of protection that allows more time for people to escape while trying to slow down and contain the fire.

-Mike

That's kinda my point. People don't realize the limitations and think that because it's "green board", that you can just glue shower tiles to it, or use it in a spot that gets wet.
I just wanted to point out that it's not water proof or mold proof and if it's an area that will get wet, you probably shouldn't use drywall at all. At least, make sure it doesn't get wet.
And as far as I know, they increase the fire rating of regular drywall by simply increasing thickness. When they built my place of employment, code required all steel wall studs and min 5/8 drywall because it had a higher fire rating than 1/2.
Are there new drywall(gypsum) products that have additives or something that give you a higher rating with thinner material? I ask because I'd be interested in learning about a product like that.

 

[bholder]

That's kinda my point. People don't realize the limitations and think that because it's "green board", that you can just glue shower tiles to it, or use it in a spot that gets wet.
I just wanted to point out that it's not water proof or mold proof and if it's an area that will get wet, you probably shouldn't use drywall at all. At least, make sure it doesn't get wet.

Yeah that's what I always thought and that's why I don't like the idea of drywall in the laundry utility room where water is known to spray about occasionally. Like I said, my "moisture event" is over, but even before it started, the wall board was grey and yucky, I assume that was mold. But no moisture problem there other than what is typical for such a room. There's a reason there is a floor drain, after all (if if, as I suspect, it's just a plugged up drywell and not an actual plumbed drain hooked into the septic).

Thanks for the informative posts, guys, we're "on track" now.

 

[RichterScale]

Just as an example, when we hired a home builder a while back, I asked what their plan was for the shower. He said, "don't worry, the shower will have all green board".
The plan was to glue shower tiles to the green board. I said, no, you'll install cement board, then seal it, then install the tile.
And that was someone who was supposed to be a professional home builder. They didn't install it properly even after I told them how I wanted it done and paid extra. And it was even worse the second time they attempted it when they sub'd it out to a "tile guy".
I shut the whole project down, we went to court for a while and I'll be finishing the home myself now (the bathroom wasn't the only problem).
@bholder you could always seal the wall with a membrane and tile it. Maybe just the lower half?

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

When I came across the trusscore product, I was doing research about building a walk-in shower. I have been looking at this product: Permabase WP Waterproof Cement Board, that the manufacturer claims needs to be sealed only at the seams. A Complete Guide to Waterproof Cement Board.

It will be a while before I actually get into this project.

Years ago, I used to subscribe to Fine Homebuilding magazine, and it was an excellent resource. I am about to subscribe again. You get access to an on-line archive of all of their past articles included.