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Control cavity

I usually mark my locations with an awl, then use a brad-point or forstner bit to drill it out. You can use a standard bit if you need to, but it helps to drill a smaller pilot hole first. I think standard sized pots fit in a 3/8" hole, but some of the smaller toggle switches use a 1/4" hole i think. I usually wait 'till I'm almost done with the body to drill for the pots but you could do it at any stage really.
 
I used brad-point bits for the first few builds, and a Forstner for the last one. Forstner (slowly) is definitely the way to go.

I used a 1/16" bit to drill a pilot, and used the pilot hole to guide the Forstner's tip.

The five pots I used all required a 3/8" mounting hole, even though they were from three different manufacturers. The two toggle switches wanted 5/16" holes. I didn't have a Forstner for that, so I used a brad point bit. It worked fine, but even going slowly there was a small amount of tear-out at the end.

Also...I have found the best plan is to drill from the TOP, down into the cavity. It might seem logical and be tempting to drill from inside the cavity toward the top, but don't do it. There is a lot more tearing/chipping as the bit exits the other side than there is as the bit first enters the wood.
 
HaMMerHeD said:
.Also...I have found the best plan is to drill from the TOP, down into the cavity. It might seem logical and be tempting to drill from inside the cavity toward the top, but don't do it. There is a lot more tearing/chipping as the bit exits the other side than there is as the bit first enters the wood.

I drill from the top, but only because I suck at measuring ;) I suggest putting down some painters tape before you drill. Helps prevent tear out.
 
I do not route the entire cavity to its final depth til I have drilled the pot and jack holes, say leave 3/8 of an inch. I drill from the top into the cavity. Once the holes are drilled, then route the cavity to its final depth. It will clean up any tearout and make the cavity nice & clean.