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Convert to string through?

Well im getting a musicman Stingray. Its been on layaway and ive been paying it off. But im not getting rid of my fender i love it to death. Im also ordering a Badass V for it next pay check. Which should definatly improve how it plays.
 
I've done this to 2 basses in my life- a MIM Jazz, and my SR5... the MIM went well, but the SR5, not so much. The SR5 still plays well and sounds great, but it will always carry the scars of my mistake... I regret it every time I pick it up!
 
I've done this to 2 basses in my life- a MIM Jazz, and my SR5... the MIM went well, but the SR5, not so much. The SR5 still plays well and sounds great, but it will always carry the scars of my mistake... I regret it every time I pick it up!

On converting a MIM Jazz? Did you run into any problems with string winding length? I use .110 Half rounds and can't run thru-body on the E and A because the windings don't go through the nut slot, they taper approx. 1/4-1/2 " before.
 
there's been a thread or two on this topic the the Set-up & Repair section and at least one in the Luthier's Forum. worth a search to see the great details there

suffice it to say that you'll need a bridge that accommodates thru-body stringing, and the right tools to do it with a drill press being an absolute minimum. I've done a few conversions to finished bodies, and it's a real pain to do the job so it looks like an original install - even 1/32" off on one of your ferrules will glare madly at you each time you look at it.

it's a total pain to do, will take you well over a couple hours to complete start -> finish, and the end result is barely noticable (sonically or feel) at best. you'd be better off financially and sonically by simply buying a new set of strings one guage heavier and re-stringing your bass. add a complete set-up + pickup adjustment + intonation and you're on your path to a more robust sound without all of the potential to cause permanent damage to your bass

just my two Indian Rupees on the topic

all the best,

R
 
On converting a MIM Jazz? Did you run into any problems with string winding length? I use .110 Half rounds and can't run thru-body on the E and A because the windings don't go through the nut slot, they taper approx. 1/4-1/2 " before.

I string-through on both my Laklands. I use D'Addario Super-Long Scale strings (half-rounds on my fretless, prosteels on my fretted) with no taper for this exact issue.
 
On converting a MIM Jazz? Did you run into any problems with string winding length? I use .110 Half rounds and can't run thru-body on the E and A because the windings don't go through the nut slot, they taper approx. 1/4-1/2 " before.

I had this problem when I converted my fretless Jazz to string thrrough. I ended up solving it by ordering a set of Carvin ferrules, which go further into the body, making the distance shorter between the nut and the ball end of the string.
 
I've done it a couple times with good results as far as not screwing it up. But you must use a drill press and good drill bits and really know how to use your tools. It's not something an amateur should attempt. Sonically there is very little improvement, if any. At least, you won't hear any when playing with a band, or set in the mix properly when recording.

I didn't have any problems with not enough winding length although it was close. I was using Thomastic JF 344s. If it is a concern, Carvin sells string ferrules made so that the ball ends go deeper into the body-1 inch I believe. They look just like any other string ferrules and are available in chrome, gold or black. They come stock on their Bolt line of basses. I had a Bolt I built from a kit. Great sounding and playing bass. I switched back and forth between string through and top loading and couldn't notice any appreciable difference in sound or feel.