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Cords - What Causes them to go bad.. Plugs??

A cord breaks out into these items:
1/ plugs,
2/ solder joints,
3/ cable,
& it's unlikely that more than one will fail at one time.

Wasting plugs? Your bad cables are a source of 'free' plugs.

I'd get an ohmmeter (or DVM) & measure the cables for continuity. I'm also a fan of the Behringer cable tester: it will 'latch' onto some intermittent cord issues.
 
A cord breaks out into these items:
1/ plugs,
2/ solder joints,
3/ cable,
& it's unlikely that more than one will fail at one time.

Wasting plugs? Your bad cables are a source of 'free' plugs.

I'd get an ohmmeter (or DVM) & measure the cables for continuity. I'm also a fan of the Behringer cable tester: it will 'latch' onto some intermittent cord issues.

I have an ohm meter. How , exactly does one use it, and what should it say?
 
Most ohm meters have a resistance measuring function. There
is an internal battery in the ohm meter that will put a small
current through a wire and measure 'how much comes back'.

Set the ohm meter to Rx1. Plug in the leads to the ohm meter.

Touch the leads together to see if they move. Assuming they
do, calibrate the meter with the zero dial on it so it reads at
zero when the two leads are connected.

Next connect one lead to one tip of the jack and one lead to the
other tip of the jack. The meter will go to zero if the connection is
good. Repeat for the sleeve of the jack. If either does not
go to zero there is a discontinuity there.

If it is possible to unscrew the jack bodies, repeat process
at the soldered joints to help pinpoint where the problem is.

As noted, most problems arise near the jacks because of
bending and wear and tear.
 
Most ohm meters have a resistance measuring function. There
is an internal battery in the ohm meter that will put a small
current through a wire and measure 'how much comes back'.

Set the ohm meter to Rx1. Plug in the leads to the ohm meter.

Touch the leads together to see if they move. Assuming they
do, calibrate the meter with the zero dial on it so it reads at
zero when the two leads are connected.

Next connect one lead to one tip of the jack and one lead to the
other tip of the jack. The meter will go to zero if the connection is
good. Repeat for the sleeve of the jack. If either does not
go to zero there is a discontinuity there.

If it is possible to unscrew the jack bodies, repeat process
at the soldered joints to help pinpoint where the problem is.

As noted, most problems arise near the jacks because of
bending and wear and tear.

Thank you very much, I have a very expensive ohm meter that my father left me when he died and I never really knew how to use it. Thanks again./
 
What brand is it?

My dad had a really good one, I wish I had it. Mine I got from
Rat Shack 20+ years ago and it is a very useful tool. The
ability to test batteries, circuits, bulbs, continuity is endlessly
useful for a homeowner.

Case in point, a co-worker wanders by and asks me (knowing
I am reasonably handy) "Hey, do you have an ohm meter?".

"Sure, what's up?"

"I am trying to figure out if there is a charge on my Misquito
Magnet batteries."

'No problem, guy"

The replacement battery pack for MM is 34 bucks for NiMH
bats. I'd sure want to check and see if it held a 4.8 volt DC
charge before shelling out the cash for a new one.
EDIT: It was fine. Saved him 34 bucks.

Practice using the DC settings with a size C or D battery or
a 9 volt. I'd hold off on checking any AC 120 volt sources till you get familiar with the meter.
 
...I will never buy another Fender Tone-master cord. My brother had bought a 1ft cable, was broken out of the box, replaced it, and went bad a month later. I just had a 12ft cable go bad after 3 months, and I've never been harsh to them... wound lightly and put in a backpack or case. What's worse is the ends are molded plastic so I can't unscrew them to figure out what went wrong.
 
A big unseen killer of cables is improper coiling, such as using the around-the-thumb-and-elbow technique. It probably explains the paradox of why many occasional players have a lot of cable failures while many pros and frequent players have nearly zero.
 
I always fold mine in half: hold both plug ends, fold cord (gently, you're not making a paper airplane!), repeat until it's easily maneuverable. They don't get as tangled this way and when they do, they come out easier. I know it's easier on the wires inside the cord, but how the plug-ends like it I'm not sure.