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Coverting an open back 2x12 cab for bass use

#21
Chris Marinelli said:
Thanks for the advice, and I sort of had a feeling this was the case. Thankfully the combo weighs in just over 40 lbs so it’s very manageable.

So, do you all think it would it be best to bypass the internal speakers altogether and just go out to a bass cab, or would the existing 2x12s at least give some volume and upper-end content to go along with say a 1x15 or 2x10/2x12 bass cab? The amp is somewhat unique in that it accepts a 4 ohm cab on each of the two speaker output jacks, so it is 4 ohm to the internal speakers and switches to an 8 ohm tap for 2 4 ohm cabs wired in series when an extension cab is plugged in.
I’m not really looking to go up to a 4x10 as the size and weight starts to become an issue for transport. My gut tells me a 1x15 paired to the existing open back 2x12s could sound great, but I’m also scared the 12s will fart out and distort before the extension cab gets loud enough.
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Yes definitely bypass the speakers in the twin. You’ll probably kill them and it’ll sound well.... not to good. Go with a proper bass cab.
So many options out there now.
 
#22
Chris Marinelli said:
So I have been out of the bass game for about 15 years and am just getting back into it. I have a P Bass but no proper bass amp. Well, maybe not…

I have an excellent high powered tweed twin clone that was optimized for pedal steel (so highest headroom possible before distortion). For those unaware, it’s a Fender Bassman preamp into 100 clean tube watts. The bass sounds wonderful through it but it just isn’t going to get loud enough to compete at a gig with a drummer and guitarist. I suspect much of this is due to the speakers (2x Jensen Neo Tornado 100s) and the open back guitar cab design.
So here’s where it gets interesting - I have a spare larger 2x12 open back cab (28x20x10.5) that I could load with 12” Bass drivers and either use along with the tweed twins speakers or alone.
This is where I need some help: is this cab volume good enough for two bass woofers? Would I definitely need to seal it or could it work open back? I’m happy with a warm vintage tone so I don’t need tons of clarity necessarily. Just looking for some general advice on whether this is a feasible plan, or a big waste of time and money!
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Just curious, what is the CL region for where you live? Any GC or remaining mom’n’pops around? As others have mentioned, there is all sorts of used gear out there. What kind of guitar amps will you be up against? If a dual 15” cab is not workable for you, go with a single or 2x10 if you’re putting up with 20/30 watt guitar riggs. Your options for finding those configurations used are greater. Have woodworking experience? I’d suggest building a head only cab/case for just the amp chassis.
 
#23
Most likely a reasonable guitar amp (no more than 50 watts) and a drummer. CL is a little barren at the moment but I’m going to look around and see if I can find a decent and not obnoxiously heavy 4x10 (or a pair of 2x10s or a 15 if I can find them at 4 ohm each).
 
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#24
Just an example but maybe what you’ll end with:

- In March, I’ve bought a Traynor YGL-3 MKIII combo 2x12 with the goal of using it as a multi duty amp for my classroom. I was targeting practice volume with young kids. Bass, guitar in the Traynor and drums.

- Bought two Basslite S2012 to replace stock drivers but was advised by members here that it would be a no go. Open back and not healthy at high volumes for the new drivers.

- Finally gone the route of completely removing the drivers from the combo (and reused them for another project) and building a « suitable » cab for the job.

- I’ve found an empty cheap 1x15 combo and installed and tweaked the box for an used Black Widow 1504-DT (the YGL-3 is 4ohms).

Result: fine for what I need, moderate volume practice gear but I would never try to gig with such equipment. The YGL-3 is rated 80w clean and 150 (optimistic!) full throttle at insane amount of distorsion.

It’s plenty loud for my use (our use) with a bass and a guitar through it (and sometimes a keyboard) with a young not so hard hitting drummer. Well, I have to teach them they are not hammering something with the sticks. Those kids think that drums have two stages, on or off. There is plenty of nuances between! They already destroyed three pairs of sticks!!! I’ve never broke any cymbals, sticks or skins since I play drums. I’m not a hard hitting drummer BTW!

I guess that with a big powerful cab (something like a fridge), it would be decent for a small quiet band.

Your amp is probably like my YGL-3. Clean 80-100 watts but that’s it. Oh, I wired a 180 ohms 10 watts resistor to the output transformer secondary in case the cable is knocked off…

My take on this…
 
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#25
Chris Marinelli said:
Most likely a reasonable guitar amp (no more than 50 watts) and a drummer. CL is a little barren at the moment but I’m going to look around and see if I can find a decent and not obnoxiously heavy 4x10 (or a pair of 2x10s or a 15 if I can find them at 4 ohm each).
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50 watts is quite loud for a guitar amp but you probably already know what you will have to fight for ;)

BTW, the blonde guitar 2x12 cab is magnificent!
 
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#26
Chris Marinelli said:
Most likely a reasonable guitar amp (no more than 50 watts) and a drummer. CL is a little barren at the moment but I’m going to look around and see if I can find a decent and not obnoxiously heavy 4x10 (or a pair of 2x10s or a 15 if I can find them at 4 ohm each).
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If you get a pair of 2x10”, make sure that each is rated for 8 ohms, for a resultant ohm load of 4 with both engaged. It’s handier dealing with two 2x10 than one 4x10, you can stack them vertically on a small stage, and it won’t hurt your amp to use a single at 8 if the need arises.
 
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#27
Michedelic said:
If you get a pair of 2x10”, make sure that each is rated for 8 ohms, for a resultant ohm load of 4 with both engaged. It’s handier dealing with two 2x10 than one 4x10, you can stack them vertically on a small stage, and it won’t hurt your amp to use a single at 8 if the need arises.
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Actually this guitar amp is wired to accept a 4 ohm speaker load at the internal speaker jack AND the external speaker jack. When both jacks are used they are wired in series for an 8 ohm total load and the power transformer gets switched to an 8 ohm tap.
 
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