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Crackling rig. help!

#21
It could be either the amp or the speaker.

A little bit of diagnostic time with a qualified tech is going to be money well spent identifying what is not the problem. Then, you will have a better idea how to
proceed and the likely cost.

Some shops will wave the initial troubleshooting fee to identify which component is the cause as long as you repair the bad piece with them.
 
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#22
Ok got it. They are the original GK speakon cables that came with it the owner said, so I'm assuming they're 4 wire. I'll check when I get home.

My next dumb question... the manual says "If you are using a Speakon cable you must connect the amp positive lead to 1+ and the amp negative lead to 1- on the connector. In this mode the cabinet is setup for full range operation and the tweeter level is controlled by the crossover attenuator control."

But... I don't have a -1 on either end of the speakon cable. There is +1 on both ends.. I'm probably overthinking this at this point.
 
#28
Sturg21 said:
Ok got it. They are the original GK speakon cables that came with it the owner said, so I'm assuming they're 4 wire. I'll check when I get home.

My next dumb question... the manual says "If you are using a Speakon cable you must connect the amp positive lead to 1+ and the amp negative lead to 1- on the connector. In this mode the cabinet is setup for full range operation and the tweeter level is controlled by the crossover attenuator control."

But... I don't have a -1 on either end of the speakon cable. There is +1 on both ends.. I'm probably overthinking this at this point.
Click to expand...

2-wire Speakon
+1 to +1, -1 to -1

4-wire Speakon
+1 to +1, -1 to -1
+2 to +2, -2 to -2

You either need to open the connectors and look at the wires inside or use an ohmmeter on the contacts.
Google Image Result for https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71%2B94YNRGPL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Sorry I didn't grab a photo with genuine Neutrik but it's a b!tch posting on an iPad.
 
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#30
AudioTaper said:
This

OP, do you have another bass you can use, or another amp to verify the bass and cable is not an issue?
Click to expand...

I tested with my P bass it was fine. Came home plugged in 5 string active Schecter then complete junk, tried the P bass and on very low volume it plays.. but then I dig in at all or turn up the gain slightly and it all goes crackling and echoing. I have a combo so I tested instrument cables which are fine. I'm ordering new speakon cables and calling GK today.
 
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#31
Sturg21 said:
Picked up a nice condition GK Fusion 550 head and RBH 410 cab with speakon cables. Played it first and it thumped at 2, sounded great. Just brought it home and it's completely crackling on every note like every speaker is blown, unplayable.
Obv I need to bring to professional but was hoping I'm missing something easy here. I tried using different speaker cables but they don't fit into the speakon input (even though it says that 1/4 is fine online). My question is how can I troubleshoot whether its the head or cab? Unfortunately I don't have another cab to plug into. Any info would be better than the current situation of me staring at it angrily. Thnx
Click to expand...

try a different instrument cable

also if you have line in and out and effects loop try a short cable there

dscf1012-jpg.3503799
 
#33
Sturg21 said:
Picked up a nice condition GK Fusion 550 head and RBH 410 cab with speakon cables. Played it first and it thumped at 2, sounded great. Just brought it home and it's completely crackling on every note like every speaker is blown, unplayable.
Obv I need to bring to professional but was hoping I'm missing something easy here. I tried using different speaker cables but they don't fit into the speakon input (even though it says that 1/4 is fine online). My question is how can I troubleshoot whether its the head or cab? Unfortunately I don't have another cab to plug into. Any info would be better than the current situation of me staring at it angrily. Thnx
Click to expand...
If you have an adjustable preamp in your bass you could dial back the output and see if it helps. Also a weak battery in an active bass can cause heavy distortion. I once thought that I blew the speaker on an old Laney practice amp, but after the battery change it worked perfectly. Good luck.
 
#34
Just tested the amp at GC on one of there cabs and my speak on cable is junk! Looks like thats the solve but I'll know for sure when I get home. What are the chances of a cable crapping out on a 20 min drive home... apparently pretty good! Wow I'm a idiot. live and learn. Thanks for all the input you guys rule
 
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#35
Is it a factory GK cable, or is it a knock-off aftermarket cable with Chinese connectors? These are a big problem, but factory GK cables use the real connectors.
 
#38
Sturg21 said:
Just tested the amp at GC on one of there cabs and my speak on cable is junk! Looks like thats the solve but I'll know for sure when I get home. What are the chances of a cable crapping out on a 20 min drive home... apparently pretty good! Wow I'm a idiot. live and learn. Thanks for all the input you guys rule
Click to expand...
I have the same EXACT issue with my Fusion 550; very loud crackling and popping; starts about 5 minutes or so after first turning on the amp; then after about 10/15 minutes completely goes away. So, Which speakon cables did you replace the bad cable with? and Is it a 2 wire or a 4 wire? Thanks.
 
#39
madjazzbass said:
I have the same EXACT issue with my Fusion 550; very loud crackling and popping; starts about 5 minutes or so after first turning on the amp; then after about 10/15 minutes completely goes away. So, Which speakon cables did you replace the bad cable with? and Is it a 2 wire or a 4 wire? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Before assuming it’s the speaker cable (it’s not likely if the amp is making the noise without playing) can you verify if the noise goes away with the master volume turned down?

It could be a lot of different things.
 
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#40
agedhorse said:
It could be either the amp or the speaker.

A little bit of diagnostic time with a qualified tech is going to be money well spent identifying what is not the problem. Then, you will have a better idea how to
proceed and the likely cost.

Some shops will wave the initial troubleshooting fee to identify which component is the cause as long as you repair the bad piece with them.
Click to expand...

All the shops I ever dealt with didn't WAIVE the fee, they added the work on top of it. Sure some of the fee is incorporated into the price of the service but it's kind of like court costs in traffic court; even if you are found not guilty or the charge null processed, you still pay the "court costs".

The purpose of the checkout fee is to make sure the shop gets covered for the diag work; too many people drop off a piece of crap off and then decide not to fix it when they find out the actual cost.

So essentially the checkout fee is a diagnostic fee but they usually run about what an hour of service time costs and for amps they are usually quite simple compared to high end Pro Audio gear.

The OP describes what is often the classic "the effects loop has corrosion". He should start there and eliminate that as a possible problem before he spends $125 to find out his "effects loop has corrosion".

Also finding a "qualified tech" is not like finding a liquor store in Florida LOL; there ain't one on every corner.

I raise this issue a lot, "just take it to a qualified tech" is not an answer if your local scene has few places and the people who work there are idiots.

Sending it to G-K is certainly a valid option, but that's money on shipping and whatever they charge.

Best to eliminate the simple stuff an end user can troubleshoot safely before taking that step.

Analogeezer
 

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