i'm having a finger board replaced but i said no to any dots on the top of the board only have them down the side because it gets a bit offputting in drop D if you capo back to standard E..
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Personally I prefer that too. Gives the fretboard a much cleaner look and since I also play fretless I'm already used to having them on the inlay anyway.
My grandpa always said "you'll never miss what you've never had". His wise words apply to standard tuning for you!Actually I never played E. When I bought my first bass I tuned it by ear without any reference, just to a tone I liked which happened to be D (as I later found out), go figure...
Absolutely, the true spirit of wisdom.My grandpa always said "you'll never miss what you've never had". His wise words apply to standard tuning for you!
For sure, I do agree, tried E standard several times, no dice, just doesn't stick with me.
I'm definitely D-woman
Just for clarification...
"Drop D" (D-A-D-G) is not the same as "D-standard" (D-G-C-F).
Update - I just put a set of 45-100 Chromes on my 2022 Rickenbacker 4003 and the tension is nice in D Standard. I like how smooth to the touch they are and the initial brightness. I'm excited to hear how they mellow out in the near future.
Don't you find the 100E a bit too loose in D? Have you considered trying the "balanced tension" set, 45-60-80-105, put together by Fret Nation?
D'Addario Chromes Flatwound Balanced Tension String Set - 4-
I like the tension because I like my strings with lighter tension in general. For context, I play medium gauge (50-105) D'Addario Nickel Rounds on my other basses. So I figured that going down one gauge (to light gauge or 45-100) for flats / Chromes would be similar in tension.
...if i ever say drop D on this thread i really mean D standard ..my bad but i keep saying it wrong by mistake.
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Last night, I was practicing and I decided to raise my strings back up to standard tuning for one song. Not only did the strings feel way too tense (45-100 gauge D'Addario Chromes), but having an E1 as my lowest available note was just weird! I was also weirded out with the A1 being the fifth fret on the lowest string.
What's funny is that I spent the first 14 years of my life playing bass in standard tuning. I'm now wondering why I didn't switch to D Standard sooner?
I just wanted to let the D Standard Club know about my observations.
What's funny is that I spent the first 14 years of my life playing bass in standard tuning. I'm now wondering why I didn't switch to D Standard sooner?
I just wanted to let the D Standard Club know about my observations.
I'm back!
The last time I had my Jazz in DGCF tuning was Aug 2022. I've acquired two more Jazz basses since, so I decided to set up one of them for DGCF.
2011 American Special Jazz with GHS Pressurewound 44-106.
I have another bass coming next month - Ibanez SR650E. I'm thinking of setting that up for DGCF as well.
The last time I had my Jazz in DGCF tuning was Aug 2022. I've acquired two more Jazz basses since, so I decided to set up one of them for DGCF.
2011 American Special Jazz with GHS Pressurewound 44-106.
I have another bass coming next month - Ibanez SR650E. I'm thinking of setting that up for DGCF as well.
Those are nice strings, pretty stiff with the sound of roundwounds but nearly as playable as flats. I've got two sets on a pair of chickenbackers. Good choice for a Jazz.
Agreed. I use the Pressurewound 40-96 for EADG and I like the idea PW 44-106 have nearly identical tension in DGCF (148.5 lbs.) as the 40-96 in EADG (147.2 lbs.). Plus, no need to widen the nut slots due to the relatively standard gauges.
Meanwhile, I have a set of DR Nickel Lo-Riders 40-100 and a set of NLR 45-105. I'm thinking of setting up the Ibanez SR650E (active PJ) for DGCF with the 45-105 set when I have it in my possession next month.
I've done this DGCF thing in the past, but mainly to have two extra low notes (D & Eb) in case I needed them for certain songs. What I'd like to do with these two basses is to explore the DGCF tuning further with its own unique dynamics and finer tonal nuances.
I have no experiences with the Lo-Riders, but knowing the DR Black Beauties very well (I really love those) and the amazing sound they give on some basses, it wouldn't surprise me if there are some similarities.
Yep DGCF is in a tonal class of its own.
I would choose the Lo-Riders over any other round-core strings by DR for their hex-core stiffness for down-tuning. Ironically, this Ibanez I'm getting has Black Beauties on it right now from the previous owner. I didn't care for them when I tried the bass at the store.
Yeah, that could be. I have no Ibanez bass (go figure with 40+ basses) but I bought an active bass once that came with some Mr. Taiwan strings and didn't sound anywhere decent at all. After trying some other strings I put on the BB's and that thing came alive instantly. But as with all strings, some do good on one bass and bad on another, trial-and-error is the game until you find the right ones.
Maybe not the correct reply as I don't have any of those, but on my Ric 4003, I did need to do that, only slightly and no big deal, but still...
It also depends on the gauges of which the bass came with from the factory. On nearly all of the basses (13) that I have with 110 I needed to do that, obviously the higher the gauge the more likely you need to do that (one of my own builds has 125 for D and 100 for the G string, no escape there), also using nylon-taped strings in general are thicker and nearly always need filing the nut.
Also plastic nuts are a bit more forgiving, brass is absolutely not.
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Thanks for your reply. I guess there is only one sure way to find out... Or, maybe I'll try and see if I can get hold of a single .110 cheap so I can test it out.
Btw, widening the nut is one thing, there's a whole discussion on the luthier's threads about this, that is, the correct form of the slots. Straight, rounded, triangular, you name it, many options, many opinions.
Since I build my own basses and even before starting that, from experience I personally (and that doesn't mean it's what I predicate as THE best way) I use a slight triangular shape with a rounded bottom which ensures no ringing as the string always sits snug on the sides.
Since I build my own basses and even before starting that, from experience I personally (and that doesn't mean it's what I predicate as THE best way) I use a slight triangular shape with a rounded bottom which ensures no ringing as the string always sits snug on the sides.
