Danelectro Owners Club

[Buster53]

You'd just yank then out (carefully). It's possible they're glued in. The original pin itself is probably tapered. The replacement one may be tapered also, or it's possible it's different.

The bottom one on my DC bass was loose in its hole. I didn't have any glue handy, so I shimmed it with a little bit of paper and tapped it back in. I meant it to be a temporary fix until I got home, but it's held that way for 5 years.

If I were replacing the plastic tapered press-in pins with screw-in ones, I'd pull the plastic pins out, then still drill and dowel the holes (you'd want to have cylindrical-shaped home for a dowel), then drill the dowel for the screw for the strap button.

Thanks. Slight twist with a leatherman tool and it slipped right out. Now I can buy a genuine replacement and return it to original.

 

[Verne Andru]

The 90s reissues were the first after Danelectro in the 1960s. Not all had the "D" on the machines or plastic strap locks - my double from the 90s has high-quality machines without the "D" and metal strap locks. The Chinese made baritone neck I got from Allparts to replace the 6-string on the double did come with the "D" machines which I found were pretty inferior to what came stock on the double.

 

[msb]

The very first Shinko reissues didn’t have the D tuners, but it wasn’t too long before they were stock.

 

[Buster53]

Are the D tuners reliable? I’ve only had the bass barely 24 hours and I’ve had to retune a few times - everything going flat.

I took of the toundwounds on it for D’Addario chromes but they’re a slightly heavier gauge. I’ve ordered the Labella flats for the Longhorn so maybe my restring has something to do with the tuning.

 

[Verne Andru]

Are the D tuners reliable?

They're pretty crappy IMHO.

 

[EdO.]

Could be new strings breaking in, they always take a bit.

I've read here that disassembling and lubricating the tuners makes them better, however I haven't tried it yet as I don't get the opportunity to play mine much. Definitely on my to do list though. Someone here who has done that will hopefully chime in. Yeah they're not great tuners as tuners go but that's just a part of the Dano charm. Mine generally seems to hold tuning reasonably well.

It would probably affect the resale value negatively though if you were to change them out for something else, if retaining the "all original" condition of the bass is an issue to you. The earlier reissue Koreans seem to have more of a desirability/collectability quotient and those D tuners are, for better or worse, part of their charm.

 

[Buster53]

I noticed when restringing they seemed a bit tight so a servicing could be in order. When the new lighter gauge Labellas arrive I’ll take it to my local tech to have him go thru it all.

 

[bigtone23]

My '98 56 U2 had the plastic button Kluson looking tuners. I took those off immediately and replaced with some Shallers (back in 1998), not minis, but the larger sized ones. The Schallers were always a touch too heavy and caused a little neck dive. I replaced them recently with some locking Hipshots that were lighter. A better choice.
Also, back in 1998, I removed the plastic butt end strap button and just installed a set of Schaller strap lock buttons just off of the hole left in the butt end and on the upper bout (like where a Les Paul has buttons). The plastic strap button at the neck heel just stayed put.
My '18 Longhorn just had the butt end metal strap button swapped out for Schaller Strap lock button. I did locate the other Schaller on the end of the upper horn, works great there. Left the stock button on the neck heel alone, just like on the 56 U2.

 

[Buster53]

Were either of those tuner swaps direct drop ins or did they require drilling?

instead of the upper horn, why not just move the neck strap button by 90 degrees around to the base of the neck since there’s no metal neck plate in the way?

TBH for now I’d like to keep the Longhorn as original as possible. As a collector that’s more important to me. I’ve numerous other basses I can and would gig before the Dano. I’m not planning to jump into mods but knowing what’s possible if I decide to is interesting. Thanks.

 

[msb]

Danos were originally made to be as cheap as was possible at the time , and the reissues have faithfully continued that approach . However they were designed to work , and are very playable instruments. When my tuners began to feel a little worse I did clean and lubricate them. They’re still cheap tuners , they do work better. I had the same issue with a UniVox HiFlier , and after cleaning the tuners they worked like new ones. It made me wonder how many tuners have been discarded when they simply required minor maintenance.

 

[Buster53]

Danos were originally made to be as cheap as was possible at the time , and the reissues have faithfully continued that approach . However they were designed to work , and are very playable instruments. When my tuners began to feel a little worse I did clean and lubricate them. They’re still cheap tuners , they do work better. I had the same issue with a UniVox HiFlier , and after cleaning the tuners they worked like new ones. It made me wonder how many tuners have been discarded when they simply required minor maintenance.

 

[Buster53]

I understand. Cheap doesn’t automatically mean rubbish, but may require more maintenance to keep them functioning at their best.

 

[Buster53]

Moving from tuners to bridge. Has anyone tried using the top half of a Hofner bridge in place of the “popsicle stick” of the Dano?

You could easily sand down the bottom to get it the right height. It could slide and pivot like the Dano, PLUS you would have the adjustable fret wire saddles for greater intonation. Seems it would work.

 

[ATLbassist]

If I were replacing the plastic tapered press-in pins with screw-in ones, I'd pull the plastic pins out, then still drill and dowel the holes (you'd want to have cylindrical-shaped home for a dowel), then drill the dowel for the screw for the strap button.

That's exactly what I did on mine, and I think the strap is more stable for it. It's also really easy to do.

OP's body strap button may be original, too. It's just had a lifetime of being set down on the floor - hard - and getting deformed.

 

[Buster53]

I don’t think it’s an original strap button as it’s not deformed but is ribbed all the way around and there is no black center dot. No doubt it has been banged around a bit. A slight gentle twist with pliers and it popped right out. So I’ve ordered original replacements as the neck button is correct/original it is white so I’m replacing it and the heel button with correct cream ones.

I’ve a dozen or so screw mount metal buttons in my spares but as with the tuners and the bridge, my intent is to keep the bass original without modification unless absolutely necessary.

 

[bigtone23]

Were either of those tuner swaps direct drop ins or did they require drilling?

instead of the upper horn, why not just move the neck strap button by 90 degrees around to the base of the neck since there’s no metal neck plate in the way?

TBH for now I’d like to keep the Longhorn as original as possible. As a collector that’s more important to me. I’ve numerous other basses I can and would gig before the Dano. I’m not planning to jump into mods but knowing what’s possible if I decide to is interesting. Thanks.

I had to ream the holes a bit to install the Schallers with the larger diameter threaded bushings. The original MIC tuners had push on bushings. Since it is reamed, now most any tuner will fit, hence the easy decision to try the Hipshots, which dropped right in and look and work great.
Here's with the Schallers. I liked how they look, being nickel.

...and with the Hipshots.

Originally got the Hipshots for my Les Paul, but then got some Ratios for it and moved the Hipshots to the Dano. There are a lot of open screw holes on the back of the headstock from the original tuners, the Schallers and now the Hipshots. Oh well, this guitar gets played and needs functional hardware. In addition to the tuners and Schaller Straplocks, I also swapped out the jack for a Switchcraft. The original jack, tuners and plastic end pin are all in the case.


I don't look at these Reissue Danos as something to totally leave alone for collectability. The original tuners on the '98 were wonky feeling from the jump. Plus, I didn't like the look of those cheap tuners with white plastic buttons, and I had the Schallers in my parts drawer, so changing them out wasn't given a second thought.

In the 80s, I had an original 63 Longhorn and did leave that one alone, as it was collectable, even back then before the 'vintage' market boom of the 90s.

 

[danosix]

How do you determine if it's from the original run? This one was advertised as a 90's reissue. How would I learn more?

I'd like to replace the heel strap button that is non original. Are the originals a screw in type or are they the long plastic solid (screwless?) end pin type?

essentially only one "run" - there were two years, but no one really differentiates. That is most definitely what someone would refer to as a "first run"

 

[danosix]

I was under the impression that the first runs had a plain headstock (not color matched) and the back of the tuner had the "D" logo. That is what my short horn looks like.

no those were the first "pro" versions - second or third year and had the more conventially adjustable bridge pieces.

 

[danosix]

Thanks. My tuners have the "D" logo on the back.

sorry - yes some of the guitars had

The 90s reissues were the first after Danelectro in the 1960s. Not all had the "D" on the machines or plastic strap locks - my double from the 90s has high-quality machines without the "D" and metal strap locks. The Chinese made baritone neck I got from Allparts to replace the 6-string on the double did come with the "D" machines which I found were pretty inferior to what came stock on the double.

The ones with better tuners were the later ones from the same era. The very first ones had the D and plain cheapy covered tuners - neither is a great tuner - but the D ones are the coolest looking uner (cheap or quality) ever made.

 

[Buster53]

I took my Longhorn to my local tech for new strings and a set up. Asked him to examine and lube the tuners if needed. He replied they can’t be serviced - either they work or replace them. Is that correct? I’ve seen several posts saying they opened em up and lubricated them and that helped.

Mine are the “D” tuners. What do you use for lubrication?

If replacing, is there a drop in replacement?