Darkglass Anagram Multi FX Announced

[silky smoove]

Are you using the Anagram into an amp & cab on stage with a band ?
If so, just straight into the front of an amp with all of its EQ and level options, or into the FX return of the amp ?

Are you playing ampless/silent stages ? .... using IEM's to hear your bass and any relevant band input ?

All of the above. I use a single preset to cover all of my needs. It does all of my input processing (noise gate, gain staging, high pass filter, compression) then it goes to all of my effects that I control with Anagram and a MIDI controller (all in stomp mode for a total of seven footswitches), then there’s an output block that sends 1/4” output 3 before the final section of the chain to be used with an amplifier, and finally after the output block the other outputs (typically only XLR output 1) goes through an amp sim, cab sim, low pass filter, and a limiter for my send to FOH and IEMs.

With this setup I can use the same preset and cover anything I need. Studio sessions, IEM-only gigs, amp gigs, and it lets me rehearse at home using the same setup I’ll use on a gig. On top of all that, if the gig is a fly date the whole thing fits on a Nano board that easily goes in my carry-on backpack.

 

[jjo161]

@silky smoove, would you like to share your preset? Not, for copying your sound, but as a starting point?

 

[Scott McArron]

I, unapologetically, would like to copy his sound

 

[silky smoove]

@silky smoove, would you like to share your preset? Not, for copying your sound, but as a starting point?

Yeah, I can do that. I’ll be back in the studio later today.

 

[jjo161]

Nice, much appreciated

 

[LowFrequenC]

hey all you happy Anagram users, I wanted to ask about how you all use your Anagram for live work.

Are you using the Anagram into an amp & cab on stage with a band ?
If so, just straight into the front of an amp with all of its EQ and level options, or into the FX return of the amp ?

Are you playing ampless/silent stages ? .... using IEM's to hear your bass and any relevant band input ?

I continue to be interested in the Anagram to replace my current modest pedalboard. I play in a wide variety of live sound settings from small stage duo situations where I use my own bass rig to cover the venue, to medium sized venues with band provided PA (speakers on sticks + subs), to festival stages with significant venue provided FOH and dedicated techs. So, I'm just trying to think through how I would best incorporate the Anagram in my live gigging life.

thanks!

The best thing about modeling units is I/O flexibility and the ability to create appropriate presets depending on the gig.

My band sometimes goes ampless in rooms with smaller stages or private events where there may be a noise ordinance. You can create different presets to accommodate the different routing depending on whether or not you’re using an amp.

I run my Anagram in scene mode in bindings view. I have the six bindings set to toggle the bypass on 6 different FX blocks, and I have a midi footswitch attached to control those changes.

 

[Grahams Groove]

This will be one of my fun projects during some time off next week, but curious if anyone else is doing this already...

I want to try and recreate the sustain pedal function (a la the Gamechanger Audio Sustain Pedal) with the Anagram. I've got the morningstar MC6 Pro - so I have some advanced MIDI capabilities to achieve this. Anyone doing something like this with specific block combos and/or MIDI commands?

 

[Chrishi87]

Yes, the cables, of course. but only only one power supply

Either way, you need only one Supply.
Sorry, I don’t get it

 

[AnthonyBe]

Either way, you need only one Supply.
Sorry, I don’t get it

Also important to keep in mind that part of the equation was using the
Darkglass Anagram original 9V DC power supply.

I definitely would not by using a splitter on a power supply like that to power 3 devices, especially with such different Current draw (e.g. Polytune 100ma vs. Anagram 1,700mA). The risk of using a splitter is that there is nothing ensuring that each device is getting the required current, especially during any peak current draw moments. Having a power supply that is rated for more Current that the combined total of all devices helps cover up the problem, but isn't the most reliable solution.

Either way, better solution is still to get a power supply designed to meet (ideally exceed for headroom and growth) the needs of the solution. Something like a Walrus Audio Canvas Power HP (Canvas Power HP) would be perfect for this setup as it has 1 x 9V 3A output (for Anagram) and 3 x 9V 500mA outputs (for other pedals).

 

[Grahams Groove]

I definitely would not by using a splitter on a power supply like that to power 3 devices, especially with such different Current draw (e.g. Polytune 100ma vs. Anagram 1,700mA). The risk of using a splitter is that there is nothing ensuring that each device is getting the required current, especially during any peak current draw moments. Having a power supply that is rated for more Current that the combined total of all devices helps cover up the problem, but isn't the most reliable solution.

Not sure I agree here. This seems to imply that the splitter/daisy chain has some impact on how much current is delivered to each pedal. In reality, the pedals will draw what they need, and there's only a problem if the required draw from each pedal exceeds the power supply's total output capacity at a given moment. If the total output current of the power supply exceeds the maximum draw of the pedals connected to it, you aren't 'covering up' a problem - you're avoiding potential problems by having an adequately rated power supply.

In this case, I think the OP would be fine using the DG power supply > PT3 > Anagram. Start-up of the pedals is typically when you see maximum draw. So, assuming there's no issue during startup, then the Polytune 3 is drawing ~100 mA and the Anagram is getting the remaining ~1,900 mA. Adding a third pedal is a potential gamble if it draws more than 100-200 mA, as they'd be getting into a scenario where the Anagram might get less than the ~1,700 mA it needs during regular operation.

I agree with the comments on the potential for noise with the Anagram being all digital and the PT3 using digital processing. Otherwise, this setup doesn't pose an obvious power issue assuming the 3rd pedal doesn't have a high draw.

 

[AnthonyBe]

Start-up of the pedals is typically when you see maximum draw. So, assuming there's no issue during startup

That is the crux of why I would avoid it. It's a small risk, but still a risk. The specs of these devices are usually the 'runtime' current draw rather than any peak draw. An isolated multi-outlet power supply will better handle these 'edge case' scenarios better than a bog-standard 9V DC PSU and splitter cable.
Definitely comes down to how much risk people are willing to introduce into their setup vs. the cost to mitigate said risk. There's also the element of increased resistance depending on length and quality of the splitter (or daisy chain). Again, small, but another small risk to combine with another small risk.

Personally, I just wouldn't recommend to someone who is buying a $1000+ device (plus any other devices) to then skimp on power which is so critical for reliable operation, to save $20-30. It's the old 'putting regular fuel in a McLaren supercar' type analogy. But then I take a high risk mitigation approach to these things as I just want it to work reliably and consistently for many many years.

 

[Grahams Groove]

That is the crux of why I would avoid it. It's a small risk, but still a risk. The specs of these devices are usually the 'runtime' current draw rather than any peak draw. An isolated multi-outlet power supply will better handle these 'edge case' scenarios better than a bog-standard 9V DC PSU and splitter cable.
Definitely comes down to how much risk people are willing to introduce into their setup vs. the cost to mitigate said risk. There's also the element of increased resistance depending on length and quality of the splitter (or daisy chain). Again, small, but another small risk to combine with another small risk.

Personally, I just wouldn't recommend to someone who is buying a $1000+ device (plus any other devices) to then skimp on power which is so critical for reliable operation, to save $20-30. It's the old 'putting regular fuel in a McLaren supercar' type analogy. But then I take a high risk mitigation approach to these things as I just want it to work reliably and consistently for many many years.

Agreed on the risk. I'm also in the same boat - wouldn't risk it if I'm trying to gig the board and have it be reliable/anxiety free. If I was jamming at home with no real consequence for a freeze/shutdown, I'd probably give it a shot before investing in a more expensive power supply.

 

[jjo161]

Okay okay, understood, not gonna do it

to save $20-30.

It was not about saving money, though, just saving sockets and cable spaghetti around the board.

 

[Scott McArron]

I got the Anagram and Entropia working for my metal tone I was after.

The “trick” was moving the Gain block from before Entropia to after. This fixed all my issues. Same effect as using an amp sim which I don’t normally use. All the cab sims/IRs that always sounded super dark just opened up. And the mushy low end was no longer an issue.

Normally, I just process the DI signal. But Entropia’s automated input was messing with my normal flow as I was used to it. But now it’s all good! And my QC is going up for sale.

 

[TJBasser]

The “trick” was moving the Gain block from before Entropia to after.

And what do you do with that gain block - raise or lower the gain, if I may ask?

 

[Scott McArron]

And what do you do with that gain block - raise or lower the gain, if I may ask?

Add gain. Somewhere between 5-8 dBs is working well for me.

Alternatively, just use an amp sim and get similar results. No need to add more gain. I’m also using the GK 800RB set near flat in a near identical preset (small upper mid bump and mid contour on) and it sounds amazing for the high band with distortion.

 

[AnthonyBe]

It was not about saving money, though, just saving sockets and cable spaghetti around the board

Totally get that reasoning.

Again, in my 'mitigate risks where possible' mindset, every cable and connection is a failure point or something that could simply get knocked out and unplugged. Reducing number of cables and connections is neat clean and generally good for reducing potential failure points.

I keep the original Darkglass 9V DC supply on my desk at home for when I'm doing updates and tweaking sounds. I could even use the GaN desktop USB charger I use to power all the tablets, phones and laptops given it has a USB-C port with PD and >18W except I usually want the Anagram's USB port for connecting to my PC (shame they didn't include WiFi like the Line 6 Helix Stadium..)

In my gig bag lives my Walrus Audio Canvas Power HP for rehearsals and gigs. That is my 'built like a tank and more isolated power than I need' supply for where/when it really counts.

 

[Mark Ambler]

Are or have there been any reliability issues with the Anagram?

 

[Grahams Groove]

Are or have there been any reliability issues with the Anagram?

You can read any accounts of issues in this thread. Main ones seem to be knob replacements needed on a specific run of units, and some reports of ‘freezing’ when making adjustments to NAM blocks.

 

[Rockgeezer]

I’ve had it for two and a half months now and over thirty shows plus many hours at home, studio and rehearsals. My pedalboard is basic and simple on the Pedaltrain Metro 16 and my six most used presets are now tweaked to my liking. I’m impressed more and more each day and applaud the frequent updates provided. To date I have had zero issues other than replacing the knobs sent by Darkglass upon request.