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Dealing with EUB's and strings that are "too long"

Discussion in 'Electric Upright Basses (EUB's) [DB]' started by davel66, May 20, 2011.


  1. Folks, This is covered in a few different threads in this forum but I do have a specific question I couldn't find an answer to. Hopefully this isn't too redundant a thread. Mods feel free to move/merge as appropriate.

    I just restrung an Azola original BugBass with Thomastik Spirocores - Medium gauge, 3/4 size. I'm very happy with the sound and feel!

    The 3/4 size strings were too long and I had to have several wraps of the metal part of the string around the tuning pegs.

    For all the strings I only trimmed the thin red part of the string to get the wrapping to not be excessive when tuned to pitch. In the case of the E string I ended up having a significant amount of the metal wound around the tuning peg and the string is getting pushed against the peg box (too many wraps). This doesn't seem like a big problem yet but I'm worried that as the sting continues to stretch the amount of slack taken in will cause too much string to be pressing against the peg box.

    So finally my question: I think I need to trim the string past the red part and actually cut the "real" part of the string, the flat-wound metal part. Is that going to cause me problems and should I avoid this in favor of string against the peg box?

    If it's helpful I can upload a picture.
     
  2. Yes, the strings should be cut.

    On my bass BSX (by design, it looks like a BugBass) I shortened the string (cut the tail) for a 150-300mm, that the string is well wound on the axis of the tuner. This length depends on the brand of strings and strings of numbers, because the strings are wound on A,D tuner more distant than the E,G.
    Specific length you need to find an experimental for each string. You need to leave a tail length of 150-200mm after tuner for a good winding.

    Here is a picture illustrating:
    http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f101/bsx-megathread-390289/index11.html#post10011654
    Later in this topic in detail told about the length of the strings. Dimensions bass BSH similar to the size of the Bug bass.

    Hope this helps.
     
  3. Please don't cut in the metal part or you'll ruin your string(s)!
    As long as the turns don't push too hard on the pegbox, which could pinch the string and damage it.
    I have the same problem with my Carruthers.
    Half-size DB strings fit best, but there's not much choice for that lenght.
    Furthermore, they may be designed thicker for the shorter scale and give too much tension at 3/4 scale.
    (for some brands, the 1/2 size is the same string as the 3/4, just cut shorter on the winding machine)

    You can save a few centimeters if you install the strings a different way:
    Instead of passing through the tailpiece holes from the bottom, pass the strings from the top, and bring them upside over the top of the tailpiece.
    This will make a kind of reverse "J".
    Hope you understand what I mean. :)

    It'll also reduce the angle of the strings over the bridge, but I don't think this would be an issue.
     
  4. I do not recommend cut the string. This can damage the string. This complicates the use of strings used on other basses.
    An my acoustic DB and Triumph EUB (where mechanics is the same as an acoustic DB) I have not cut the string.

    But the bass with small mechanics long tails of strings (many turns) bad for the setting string! If not selected a short strings (eg. 1/2 DB strings), then the strings should be cut.
    (Long 3/4 strings are not provided on the size of EUB. It is normal that they should be cut.)

    IMHO.

    !! I must say that I'm using BSX-EUB. I have no experience in using the BugBass. !! I think these tips can be used with the Bugbass.
     
  5. Thanks much for the comments folks. I am going to err on the side of caution and will not cut the metal part of the string. Right now I can still wiggle the string that is pressing against the peg box so I think I'm OK for a bit.

    Francois - I like your suggestion of changing the string routing at the tailpiece - very clever! I'll take a look and I'm sure I can figure it out.
     
  6. Some strings have a removeable ball (Jargars come to mind), and some have a hole in it.
    (like Obligatos and Evahs)
    You can mount those in loop fashion and therefore save at least an inch.
     
  7. tstone

    tstone

    Nov 16, 2010
    San Francisco, CA
    >> You can save a few centimeters if you install the strings a different way:
    Instead of passing through the tailpiece holes from the bottom, pass the strings from the top, and bring them upside over the top of the tailpiece.
    This will make a kind of reverse "J".
    Hope you understand what I mean. ​
    Actually, I am having a hard time understanding. If you pass the string so that the ball end is sitting on top of the tailpiece, how do you route the peg end of the string "upside over the top of the tailpiece"??
     
  8. Sorry for my bad english.
    Maybe someone will jump in and explain it with better words.
    My main language is french.

    Edit: I tried to make a very simple drawing so you get the idea.
    Hope it worked. :)
     

    Attached Files:

  9. NickyBass

    NickyBass Supporting Member

    Nov 28, 2005
    Southern New Jersey
  10. In reference to post #6, yes.
     
  11. tstone

    tstone

    Nov 16, 2010
    San Francisco, CA
    >> I tried to make a very simple drawing so you get the idea.
    Hope it worked.​
    Ah, yes, I understand now.

    If your strings have ball ends with a through-hole and you wanted to maintain the same break angle over the bridge, I suppose you could rout them like this:
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Ah, this is how my Azola was strung when it came to me and I restrung it the same way. I think the bass was made to be strung this way as the holes where the balls of the strings hit the tail piece are countersunk. There is no such countersink on the holes on the outside of the tailpiece.
     
  13. I'm building a 5-string EUB as my first lutherie experience.
    While ordering strings, I got a LaBella smooth 4-string set, and ordered the low-B separately (actually a low-C). The low-B string came home too long for by EUB, so I shortened it as follows:

    I established the length I needed, slipped on some heat-shrinkeable tubing to be used at the end to prevent the chrome layer unravelling, put some masking tape below the cut-off point in case it would start unravelling, and cut the string.

    Then, I unravelled the top layer as far as I needed to and moved the tubing over this and heated it to 'seal' the chrome layer. Then I unravelled the next copper layer above the tubing enough to give me the core to use for winding on the tuning post. I secured this copper layer by spreading out the end coils a little and soldering them to the core for a short length - quarter of an inch?

    I now hope that this stands the test of time . . . will let you know if a problem develops.

    Cheers!
     
    William200 likes this.

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