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Defret Help

P

poppinsmac

Aug 10, 2007
372
2
#1
Hey,

Once the frets are out, what is the best way to fill the slots on a maple/maple board, and what should I do to protect the board after that?

I've read a few tutorials and have seen everybody do something different, so I'm just wondering what's considered to be the best way to go here.
 
#2
get yourself a razorsaw and clean out the grooves. make the grooves flat on the bottom and neat and perfect on the sides. use metal straight edges on both sides to act as guides if need be. find some 1mm veneer (or 2mm if you had to widen the slots due to chipping). You can use maple or something exotic. you can even stain the maple if you want lines on the cheap. Make the inserts a little bigger than they should be ans seat them with really thin superglue. I always recommend Zap in the pink bottle. trim off the excess veneer that is sticking out. make a radius block sander and go to town as need be.

coating is a whole other process, either go with system3 2 part epoxy or superglue (the zap super thin is my fav).
 
#3
Okay, thanks - I think I'll be good on filling the frets and will do that tomorrow.

Can you go into a big more detail on coating the fretboard?

One other thing - I have a lot of tool marks in the board. One of the previous owners had refretted it himself and the board is pretty rough. Will this smooth out with the epoxy and I shouldn't worry about it? I don't really care about the look at all, just want to make sure it plays fine.
 
#7
Seen worse. I recommend using some super thin super glue first on the really bad areas that will chip away if sanded aggressively. Apply a little super glue, let it penetrate for a second, and press down the chipping areas to keep what wood you have in place. Sand the board to a nice even radius, not taking too much wood off, use "kawshun". Clean the fret slots as best as you can with a razor saw and sand paper. Fill slots with a combo of veneer and wood putty; I'd use/set some stained maple veneer first with superglue. Trim and sand excess veneer then fill the voids with natural maple putty. Perform final sanding, finish around 400 grit. Then coat with epoxy. This is going to take patience and a careful eye and hand.

Also, it look like there is an existing finish on that board. You should get that off.

Or, you could go balls to the wall and sand it bare, chips and all. Fiill everything with putty, and coat it. it will look like sh1t, but less meticulous.
 
#8
Awesome, thanks for the help.

Two more things before I get going on it - does what I fill the frets with matter too much? Instead of staining the maple couldn't I just get some other dark veneer?

Second, you've recommended two specific brands, neither of which I can find. Can I use any super glue and epoxy? If not, what should I be looking for?

Thank you again, you're being very helpful
 
#10
I'm unable to buy online, and the online shops for the hardware stores in my area don't list either of those brands. I'm going down to the store to check it out in a little bit, but if not can you recommend another brand?

I will be getting the finish off, but having never done that before what grit do you recommend?
 
#11
use a radius block with 80-grit sand paper to do the leveling, periodically
checking for straightness. Once it’s straight (flat) and set to the correct radius, go over the board with 120-grit and then 220-grit to get rid of any scratches.

ask your hardware guy (hobby store would be better, any place that sells remote control airplanes and stuff) for "thin cynoacrylate glue". Not the thick gooey stuff.
as for epoxy, look for 2 part (resin and hardener) clear finish marine grade epoxy.
 
#12
Excellent.

Crap, one more thing (hah, sorry) - the radius block. The radius block - I'm assuming this is fairly essential, yes? I am doubting I will be able to find one in store. You said make one but don't know how to go about this.
If I'm quite careful could I do without?

I've done curves with emery cloth, just putting it over the curve, holding on either side and rubbing back and forth. Would this work?
*note* this is what I was planning on doing before I decided to ask for help
 
#14
Alright - I filled the slots and have sanded it and am ready to expoxy, but I bought the wrong kind. I got marine grade epoxy, but after getting home I read on the back that it dries grey, so I'll have to return it.
I'm having trouble finding the right kind of stuff - everything I can sets in five minutes, and it's my understanding I want the longer kind.

If this dries clear, could I use a bunch of these? Invalid Link Removed
 
#15
that 60 stuff looks like it may work. test tun that 60 min stuff on some scrap and see how it sets up.
BTW, that was quick work of the fingerboard!

some tips about epoxy.
remove the nut
level the neck perfectly in a vise or something
masking tape the sides of the board, like this Picture103-2.jpg

You may consider going the superglue route
http://www.bassplayer.com/article/superglue-savior/jun-06/20674
 
#16
Ah - never thought of removing the nut.... how do I go about doing this? It's brass, if that makes a difference.

I have a bit of the 60 min epoxy here, so I can try it out tonight and see how it goes. What am I looking for?

That article you linked to - he references pictures, but I don't see any, which would kind of be nice. Do I need to register or something to see them, or are they just not there?


By the way - I just made a thread called "My Defretting Diary" - it's got pictures and info of all I've done, if you want to check it out.
 
#17
just tap the nut out from the side with an awl and ball peen. you are going to need to make the nut slots lower after it is a fretless BTW.

your looking for the epoxy to dry hard like glass, not sticky and plastic feeling. if you can scratch it away with your finger nails, it will not hold up.

sorry, that link used to show pics. i guess not anymore.
 
#18
Alright, cool.

Actually, I only have the five minute epoxy here, not the hour one.
I was worried about using the five minute, but if I apply it the same was as in the link you gave me with quick dry super glue, it should work the same, right?

I'll test it out anyway.
 
#19
should, but the quick super glue is not forgiving! you do not want to superglue some sandpaper to your board! I use my finger to apply it and spend the rest of the week peeling it off! lol.

that 5 min stuff is shite. it dries tacky and soft.
 
#20
Okay, good to know.

In my full post about the defret, engedi1 recommended just using linseed oil if I was just going to use tape wounds or flats, which I will.
What are your thoughts on this?
If I didn't have to epoxy it and could just use an oil I think that would be great, I'm really loving the sound thats coming out of it right now.
 

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