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Describe your ideal bass.

Well, If you insist..

SPECS

  • Neck type: Atlas-5/5pc Panga Panga/Purpleheart neck w/KTS™ TITANIUM rods
  • Top/back/body: Flamed Maple/Bubinga top - Flamed Maple/Bubinga back - Ash body
  • Fretboard: Birdseye Maple fretboard - Green oval inlay
  • Fret: Medium frets - Premium fret edge treatment
  • Number of frets: 24
  • Bridge: MR5S bridge
  • String space: 16.5 mm
  • Neck pickup: Nordstrand™ Big Break neck pickup - Passive
  • Bridge pickup: Nordstrand™ Big Break bridge pickup - Passive
  • Equaliser: Ibanez Custom Electronics 3-band EQ w/ EQ bypass switch (passive tone control on treble pot) & 3-way Mid frequency switch
  • Factory tuning: 1G, 2D, 3A, 4E, 5B
  • Strings: D'Addario® EXL165 + .130
  • String gauge: .045/.065/.085/.105/.130
  • Nut: Graph Tech® BLACK TUSQ XL® nut
  • Hardware color: Gold

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Green for da Moneys, Gold for da Honeys..
(as they say). :D


:drool:

:bassist:
T$

you’re not helping my GAS for an Ibanez premium 5er
 
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This:
mybass.jpg

And This:
IMG_0111-865x1385.JPG
 
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i currently have 7 playable, gig-worthy axes. 6 of them are ideal:
- the feel of the necks is fantastic, and
- the necks 'fit' the body (ergonomic).
- they balance,
- they're lightweight,
- they sound good,
- they're affordable,
- and they're just too much fun! :D

all i got.


:laugh:

That list is identical to mine except I went deep end on the colors to personalize them. Increases the fun and included a great connection to my kids that painted them. The aesthetics are important to me regardless of others slagging on that concept.

The two parts-basses are ideal by this list, even if the work was done by amateurs and pros could do it better.

The Mustang and Musicmaster in between them are pretty fun too.
4 basses.jpg
 
As far as brands, something along the lines of Maruszczyk Frog PI custom, Mayones Viking custom, Rybski custom.

In terms of specs:

Ash body - eye poplar top w/ wenge veneer
24 fret neck thru 5 piece wenge & paddock
Ebony fretboard
2 piece bridge, Dtuner, gold hardware
Bartolini soapbars
Aguilar OBP 3 preamp
Neutrik locking output jack
Custom inlays
 
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...I went deep end on the colors to personalize them. Increases the fun and included a great connection to my kids that painted them.
:thumbsup:

The aesthetics are important to me regardless of others slagging on that concept.
IME (since i've gone to parts basses), the aesthetics i'm going for with each instrument only works if the ax plays like i want, e.g., i wouldn't be proud of the aesthetic presentation if the thing didn't play well.

that said: here's one that i didn't post --- it plays well, but the neck profile is way different than what i've become accustomed to --- i love the look, but it's not an ax that i'd take to a gig to play all night (i.e., it's not "ideal"):
Untitled-1 copy.jpg it's fun, just not "way fun!" :D :laugh:
 
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My guess is that a well warn but well maintained pre-CBS J and P would be my ideal. Not even necessarily because they'd the the absolute best in a blind test, but because of the way I'd feel about them. A big part of liking and holding onto an instrument for me is how much I value it, and these instruments have both rarity and monetary value, and the general perception of being well made going for them.
 
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How low is slammed so low? ...at the 17th fret.
I measure with strings open at the 12th fret, I shoot for barely touching 2/64ths all across. Every so slightly higher on the bass side and sloping down to the G, but you'd need a magnifying glass to see it lol. Then I adjust for feel if necessary due to string gauge, etc.

I just measured at the 17th fret. barely above the 2/64ths line on E and barely below on G. This is with LaBellas.
 
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