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Dismantling a combo

Hello.

If I want to use the head part of a combo to power a different cab is there any reason why I can't just physically take the head out and build a new box to house it? That way I'd then have a separate head and cab right?
Can that lead to any problems that I haven't foreseen?

Your opinions and advice would be appreciated

Cheers
 
Yes, you can.

Some combos don't have a "speaker out" jack (the speaker is hard-wired to the amp) so if that's the case you'll have to wire that up, as well as add a speaker-in to your remaining combo speaker cab.
 
this one just has a jack that connects the two parts. appart from that they're completely separate. I've taken the head out before and it's just two screws that hold it in. So it wont affect the acoustics of the cab or anything like that?
 
I just did this, pulled the Hartke 3500 head out of my 1155 combo to break it up into 2 easier to carry pieces, and also to use it with my new Genz Benz Focus 115. Bought a Gator 2-space rack bag for the head. Still sounds fine with the 115+5 cab from the combo too.

GB3500.jpg
 
Some combos do not have a completely enclosed chassis, so taking it apart would expose users (and other folks with fingers that may not stay where they belong) to dangerous voltages. Especially in 230 volt areas, this could be very dangerous IMO.
 
Some combos do not have a completely enclosed chassis, so taking it apart would expose users (and other folks with fingers that may not stay where they belong) to dangerous voltages. Especially in 230 volt areas, this could be very dangerous IMO.

Yeah, most lower end combos are built this way. The Hartke is an exception because it's essentially the 3500 head that's also sold separately. The amps in my two Hartke combos have an open chassis.

So don't stick your fingers into the amp if you don't know what you're doing. Even if it isn't plugged in.

Also, if the amp is open and the combo has (aluminium foil) shielding built into the cab, try to replicate it in your new enclosure.

What combo are we talking about?
 
It's this Ashdown 410

http://www.ashdownmusic.com/bass/detail.asp?section=legacy&ID=11

The head slides out fairly easily if you take a few screws out. I was going to make a sturdy wooden box to house it. Presumably if all the wiring and everything that isn't exposed now stays not exposed then there can't be any risk of shock.

When you say "even if it isn't plugged in", does that imply an amp can carry some kind of static charge when it's off?
 
Why not just sell the combo to fund an amp that you like??


Yeah, I did think of doing that, but I doubt I'd get what it's worth selling it second hand, and I thought that if I separate it into a cab and a head I can upgrade to the rig that I want in stages, as I can't really afford to fork out all in one go for the £1,500/£2000 that I'd need to spend to really get what I want.

Think it gives me a bit more flexibility this way, leaves me with more options.
 
It's this Ashdown 410

Presumably if all the wiring and everything that isn't exposed now stays not exposed then there can't be any risk of shock.

When you say "even if it isn't plugged in", does that imply an amp can carry some kind of static charge when it's off?

There are high voltage capacitors in there that store a charge. A couple of hundred volts DC is no joke. :eek:
As stated - as long as the head is an enclosed chassis (it looks like it is) you should be fine.
 
Howdy Corvine and forum low-enders,
I almost cut the stock head off of the 2x10 itself... couldn't bring myself to do it, it will still come in handy. So I took it upon myself and my limited do-it-yerself skills to fashion a cheap box for the head:

IMG_2093.jpg

-Front Detail

IMG_2090.jpg

-I needed a 1/4" headphone extension cord for the rink-dink speaker cable. Top screws could be recessed.

IMG_2094.jpg

Butt joint detail (wood screws lying around the shed along with Gorilla Glue)

IMG_2086.jpg

Finished (?) Head Box... I'll most likely put rubber feet on the bottom + sides as well as getting a handle on the top or side. Aluminum foil was glued into the interior (household Reynolds Wrap).

Hardest part, by far, was firing up the saw and just cutting straight.
 
Something I find weird is combo's like the SWR 210C which seem designed to add a rack unit to the combo or remove the head, but the head is built just too wide to fit into a standard 19" rack. into a self built wood box it went.
R9MRZYP.png


there's quite a few bass combo's (like that ashdown above) that seem like they also could have had the heads designed for rack mount usage, and just thrown into a combo - but nope, they always make the chassis too wide)
 
-I needed a 1/4" headphone extension cord for the rink-dink speaker cable. Top screws could be recessed.

Might I _strongly_ suggest that you replace that headphone cable with something that's suited for speaker usage? The copper wires in this are probably way too thin. Best case, you're losing power. Worst case, it could heat up and short circuit, especially at that length.
 
I did this wth a Peavey TNT 130 combo. I installed (2) 1/4 jacks on the back - this way I could use the amplifier only, speaker only, or both together. I made a short speaker cord to use when used as a combo. I was glad that I had done this, because the amp crapped out on me on a gig. We carried a spare head, so I was still in business !
 
Might I _strongly_ suggest that you replace that headphone cable with something that's suited for speaker usage? The copper wires in this are probably way too thin. Best case, you're losing power. Worst case, it could heat up and short circuit, especially at that length.

Yeah, I was thinking of asking one of you guys about that, thanks for chiming in Oerk. What I think I'll do is add a speaker jack to the back of the cabinet and use my Monster speaker cable.