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DIY cab build for SVT-2 Pro

S

sketchyluke

Nov 4, 2012
7
0
#1
I recently just acquired an old SVT-2 PRO for an absolute steal. I really don't require a head with that much power if I'm honest, since we only play small venues at the moment, but figured it was too much of an opportunity to miss and made the investment.

Turning my mind to getting a cab now and partly to save money, partly just for the experience I want to build one myself.

Based on what I've read on the topic I'm thinking MDF is a good wood choice? As to cab size, I'm undecided between a 6x10 or two 4x10's. I've downloaded WinISD too which should help me with the design.

I'm basically asking for some words of wisdom from someone who may have had experience with building cabs before. What are the main pitfalls to watch out for etc. Would be cool to see the fruits of your labour if anyone has already built one successfully.

The area I really don't have a clue about is the choice of driver for to use. I play a 5 string tuned to drop a# and play tech metal so whilst getting a beefy tone is important, definition would be nice too.

Cheers for any help, feel free to re-direct me to another thread if this has already been covered.
 
#3
sketchyluke said:
I recently just acquired an old SVT-2 PRO for an absolute steal. I really don't require a head with that much power if I'm honest, since we only play small venues at the moment, but figured it was too much of an opportunity to miss and made the investment.

Turning my mind to getting a cab now and partly to save money, partly just for the experience I want to build one myself.

Based on what I've read on the topic I'm thinking MDF is a good wood choice? As to cab size, I'm undecided between a 6x10 or two 4x10's. I've downloaded WinISD too which should help me with the design.

I'm basically asking for some words of wisdom from someone who may have had experience with building cabs before. What are the main pitfalls to watch out for etc. Would be cool to see the fruits of your labour if anyone has already built one successfully.

The area I really don't have a clue about is the choice of driver for to use. I play a 5 string tuned to drop a# and play tech metal so whilst getting a beefy tone is important, definition would be nice too.

Cheers for any help, feel free to re-direct me to another thread if this has already been covered.
Click to expand...

MDF is a terrible choice. Period. 1/2" Baltic Birch is the way to go.

As far as cab designs go, there are very few out there that can really handle drop A. For simplicity I would recommend you check out a TL-606 cab, convert it to 1/2" ply, and copy the bracing scheme laid out in the fEARful plans. As far as drivers go I would look to the Faital 15PR400 in 4 Ohms. That way when you need some more volume you can add a second one and run your head at 2 Ohms.

There are more capable designs out there if you want to delve a little deeper into cab building.
 
#5
There is hundreds of used 4x10's available for sale. so its rather pointless to build a outdated design that you can buy for much cheaper of the street.

the cost of the drivers alone would be more than a used 4x10

the real point in a custom cab is to invest in high quality speakers and house them in a well designed cabinet.

MDF is horrible and heavy, cracks ands breaks absorbs moisture

as mentioned 1/2 ply is the way to go, and then is braced accordingly to stop vibration, but still be a light cabinet.

after you have read up a little on cabinet design, I would lean towards a vertical alignment of speakers, not a horizontal and vertical layout like a classic 4x10 or 4x12.

simply go vertical with a traditional 2x15 or 2x12.
once you find a driver you figure the Efficiency Bandwidth Product of the driver. that will tell you ported or sealed.
on average most suitable 12's or 15's are going to be ported.

then you figure average airspace needed for the driver and build your cab dimensions around that. You want a baffle that is not to wide and you want the cabinet to be deep as possible.

then the port length is calculated to what airspace you have available. And the box tuning is based upon the resonant frequency or 'Fs' (theile small abbreviation) of the driver.
so you tune at Fs or about 5 to 7hz above it.

here is average airspace needed for common speaker sizes
per driver, multiple space if adding more than one driver.

10" =.8 to 1.5 cubic feet. (1cubic ft per driver very common)
12" =1 to 3 cubic feet ( 2.5 cubic ft per driver very common)
15" = 3 to 6 cubic feet ( 3 to 4 cubic ft very common)

larger volume = more bass, lower power handling
smaller volume= less bass, more power handling

Efficiency Bandwidth Product of the driver

50 to 70 = sealed
70 to 100 = sealed or ported
100 and up = ported

common good 15's

Faital Pro 15pr400
Eminence 3015
Eminence legend CB158
Eminence Delta Pro 15
JBL-K140
EV15L

Common good 12's

Eminence S2012
Eminence Deltalite II 2512
Eminence kappalite 3012ho
Faital Pro 12FH510

so really just slap a 12 in 3 cubic or slap a 15 in 5 cubic
tune 5hz above Fs and be done with it. its not really that hard
 
#7
Real plywood is always best, but it's a lot pricier than OSB. OSB get's bashed here on TB, but many cab manufacturers have used it for years and it's works just fine. I've built a couple of Ampeg clone cabs, and it can be a fun project. But, you may want to look around for a good used one first. Might be cheaper to buy a good used one, or even a cosmetically trashed unit and retolex it than to build from scratch.
 

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