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Double sided tapes on lacquer finished basses-
- Thread starter stevensivak
- Start date
Maybe... if the type of finish could handle solvents.
Edit: Goo Gone would be ideal. It is probably safe. The Goo Gone website agrees, if the finish is polyurethane:
https://googone.com/blog/does-goo-gone-work-on-that
Edit: Goo Gone would be ideal. It is probably safe. The Goo Gone website agrees, if the finish is polyurethane:
https://googone.com/blog/does-goo-gone-work-on-that
I have very little to say in response to that, except to point out that it's a litany of equivocation. My point was simple: They're not the same; and automatically / axiomatically treating them as if they are the same is a mistake (which I've seen the results-of on both car and guitar bodies; not by me, but from people who needed things correcting).
They can. However: In general, they don't. Cats can fly if you attach them to a hot-air balloon. Probably not best to rely on it.
You're invoking a specific example (one that contains both nitro and acrylic and lawd-knows what else), to prove a point about the difference between specific ingredients. And "buff-ready" may help with your production-flows, but buff-ready is not fully dry; you can usually stick a thumbnail in buff-ready, which has a bearing on the OP's original question. I'm familiar with Mohawk's instrument lacquer; their recommended dry time to rub-out is 72 hours, and it's not really dry/hard by then, certainly not enough to put acrylic lacquer over, which was the original point of difference. The other one, I'm not familiar with, but given that they caution about not putting more than 4 dry mils total on lest there be adhesion and cracking issues, I also question its relevance.
Yes. You've just invoked one. That has no bearing on whether there's always a chemical difference and frequently a functional / practical difference on using them, and whether bearing that in mind before treating them as the same is detrimental.
I didn't say they "can't"; I said they generally don't. Again, you're trying to hand-wave away the practical point by theoretically conceding it. "Sure; there's all sorts of stuff that retards the yellowing, but that doesn't mean it yellows less". Errr: Yes, in practical terms it does mean that. It might end up in the same place eventually, but so do all lifeforms; that doesn't mean we have the same lifespan.
And I believed it was abundantly clear that that brief coda was for anyone reading the thread who might be confused by the proliferation of the word 'acrylic'. I never thought that included you but, be my guest; go ahead and score a cheap point with it.
I'm genuinely curious: Which "high-end wood furniture" is using either nitro or acrylic lacquer as the finish?
They can. However: In general, they don't. Cats can fly if you attach them to a hot-air balloon. Probably not best to rely on it.
You're invoking a specific example (one that contains both nitro and acrylic and lawd-knows what else), to prove a point about the difference between specific ingredients. And "buff-ready" may help with your production-flows, but buff-ready is not fully dry; you can usually stick a thumbnail in buff-ready, which has a bearing on the OP's original question. I'm familiar with Mohawk's instrument lacquer; their recommended dry time to rub-out is 72 hours, and it's not really dry/hard by then, certainly not enough to put acrylic lacquer over, which was the original point of difference. The other one, I'm not familiar with, but given that they caution about not putting more than 4 dry mils total on lest there be adhesion and cracking issues, I also question its relevance.
Yes. You've just invoked one. That has no bearing on whether there's always a chemical difference and frequently a functional / practical difference on using them, and whether bearing that in mind before treating them as the same is detrimental.
I didn't say they "can't"; I said they generally don't. Again, you're trying to hand-wave away the practical point by theoretically conceding it. "Sure; there's all sorts of stuff that retards the yellowing, but that doesn't mean it yellows less". Errr: Yes, in practical terms it does mean that. It might end up in the same place eventually, but so do all lifeforms; that doesn't mean we have the same lifespan.
And I believed it was abundantly clear that that brief coda was for anyone reading the thread who might be confused by the proliferation of the word 'acrylic'. I never thought that included you but, be my guest; go ahead and score a cheap point with it.
I'm genuinely curious: Which "high-end wood furniture" is using either nitro or acrylic lacquer as the finish?
I would never put tape, stickers or any other adhesive on my bass.
Hard to be certain without seeing your design but honestly, I don't think that you need a high level of adhesion from the tape that you use - some of the 3m products, such as the ones used for signs and such, are pretty serious adhesives that are designed not to come off without alot of difficulty. Maybe start with something modest and go from there. I do alot of woodworking and use double-sided tape for jigs and such, it holds firmly but is not that hard to remove when needed, without alot of residue. The brand that I use is FastCap, not sure if they have different grades - you might also see if 3m has a customer service line, the right person could steer you towards a good product. In sum, I would think that what you are looking for here is a "Goldilocks" product, not too little and mot too much.
I wish I could get a foot of all of them and test them but that's impossible so I was hoping to find someone here who has first hand knowledge....
For attaching a piece of self adhesive pickguard material to my ABG, I adhered it to strips of Post-It Note, which is much less sticky. I can peel the whole thing up whenever I want. You can also get Post-It tape, that's an inch wide. Of course I don't know how the Post-It adhesive will affect new lacquer, but at least it's not as sticky.
The adhesive of a post it note pad would not hold down a mute and if brushed would more than likely just fall off- certainly a very un-aggresive adhesive...
Nichiban NW-K10 double-sided tape
It adheres quite well to lacquer--acrylic or nitro--but not so aggressively that it's damaging or excessively difficult to remove, provided that the new finish in question is such that the instrument is ready for use.
If this tape were left in place long enough to leave behind adhesive residue on the finish Goo Gone (not to be confused with Goof Off--do not use) or Zippo/Ronsonol lighter fluid will safely and effectively break it down and remove it.
This all also applies the same regardless of whether the finish was nitrocellulose lacquer, acrylic lacquer, water-based lacquer, or urethane.
BTW, Nichiban tape, which also comes 1.6" and 2" wide, also works well for adhering sanding paper to blocks for flat sanding.
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They call it ebonized because it sounds good. It's 100% positively stained and lacquered, at least if it was made before around 2008.
What finishing products and processes they may have switched to in the last 15 years or so would have happened well after my years of involvement, before Knoll, now Miller Knoll (a division of Herman Miller) acquired the company.
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More like lots of extra virgin, non-GMO, gluten-free melamine and phenolic resins, I estimate.
