Drill chips

[James Carter]

In my tests with my mock neck, I'm getting chips in the back when I drill the tuner machine holes. The test wood is poplar and I'm using a spade bit. Am I using the wrong kind of bit? Am I pushing too hard? What else could I be doing wrong?

 

[bholder]

Spade bits do that, in my experience. Try drilling a pilot hole, drill most of the way through (but not all the way) down from the front, and then flip it and do the rest from the back. Meet in the middle.

 

[rudy4444]

It's best to use a Forstner bit.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

A Forstner bit is definitely going to work better then a spade bit. Are you using a backer board behind the headstock when you drill? You could also use the pilot hole, drill from both sides trick with a Forstner bit.

 

[NedRyerson]

A Forstner bit is definitely going to work better then a spade bit. Are you using a backer board behind the headstock when you drill? You could also use the pilot hole, drill from both sides trick with a Forstner bit.

This.

Don't use a spade bit. Forstners are best (regular drill bits 2nd best) and definitely clamp on a backer board to help resist the tear-out. Spade bits are for drilling through wall studs to feed electrical wire or doors to install knob/latch assemblies where no one will see how clean or dirty the hole is.

 

[James Carter]

Thanks for the advice guys. It seems that 9/16" bits aren't the most common so I'll have to order one online.

 

[T_Bone_TL]

If a spade bit is all you have got, pilot hole and both sides as @bholder says is the way to do the best possible job with a spade bit.

Or a brad-point bit. Or a brace and an augur bit.

If drilling from one side with any bit, including a forstner, clamping to scrap (better than just having scrap behind, so the work can't climb the bit and make space) so the exit hole isn't an exit helps, as @Matt Liebenau suggests.

 

[newfuture]

If I only have one or two holes to drill, a standard drill bit with the drill in REVERSE minimizes this, but yeah, going in halfway from both sides if you don't have the right tool is the way to go.

 

[eddybuzzard]

Brad point, spade, or Forstner are the best choices. Finding the proper size can be a trick.
Regular twist bits are not a good choice, because they can easily split the headstock,
with their wedging action.

 

[sawzalot]

Using the right bit helps a lot—a spade bit is better for heavy construction work. Putting a backer board behind the workpiece really helps with chip-out, also. So does going partway through until just the pilot hole breaks through and then drilling from the reverse side.

 

[eddybuzzard]

Brad point, spade, or Forstner are the best choices. Finding the proper size can be a trick.
Regular twist bits are not a good choice, because they can easily split the headstock,
with their wedging action.

I have used common twist drills to enlarge tuner holes,
but only after some preparation/reinforcement of the headstock;

 

[GreyBeard]

Use a Forstner bit and put a block of wood tightly under the hole you are drilling. Let the bit drill through the hole and into the block of wood. This should cure your problem.

 

[rojo412]

Sacrificial backing board is a MUST.

I'll add that I bought myself a 9/16" brad point bit and it's DANGEROUS. I've had more than one occasion where the piece being drilled started to get pulled upward once it broke through the back.
So now, if I actually need to use that size drill, since I don't have a forstner bit in that size in my set, I'll do one of a couple of other methods:

1) Use a step drill bit and cut that to the 9/16" on the face, then repeat on the back.
If they don't meet, I'll either use a file or router with the pattern bit to trim the remaining section in the middle.

2) Start the process with the big scary bit (with the piece clamped to the drill table), let only the point come through to the back, then flip the neck and do the step bit to shave the last section out.

I think the smartest move (for me, at least) is to source a 9/16" forstner, since they tend to be relatively safe and cut a nice hole. Just looked them up, there are plenty out there.
In other words, if you have to buy a 9/16" bit for this purpose, I'd personally avoid the big scary one and go forstner.

 

[Jazzdogg]

In my tests with my mock neck, I'm getting chips in the back when I drill the tuner machine holes. The test wood is poplar and I'm using a spade bit. Am I using the wrong kind of bit? Am I pushing too hard? What else could I be doing wrong?

Clamp your headstock securely to a piece of hardwood scrap so that the back of the headstock is held tightly against the piece of scrap.

When you drill, use a sharp Forstner or Brad point bit. Stop drilling when the bit exits the headstock. The scrap will support the headstock wood fibers and will prevent the bit from tearing the headstock's grain as it exits the work.

 

[pie_man_25]

On top of a forstner bit and backing board, I've found masking tape on the face that you're drilling into to help a little bit.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Sacrificial backing board is a MUST.

I'll add that I bought myself a 9/16" brad point bit and it's DANGEROUS. I've had more than one occasion where the piece being drilled started to get pulled upward once it broke through the back.
So now, if I actually need to use that size drill, since I don't have a forstner bit in that size in my set, I'll do one of a couple of other methods:

1) Use a step drill bit and cut that to the 9/16" on the face, then repeat on the back.
If they don't meet, I'll either use a file or router with the pattern bit to trim the remaining section in the middle.

2) Start the process with the big scary bit (with the piece clamped to the drill table), let only the point come through to the back, then flip the neck and do the step bit to shave the last section out.

I think the smartest move (for me, at least) is to source a 9/16" forstner, since they tend to be relatively safe and cut a nice hole. Just looked them up, there are plenty out there.
In other words, if you have to buy a 9/16" bit for this purpose, I'd personally avoid the big scary one and go forstner.

I bought a 9/16” Forstner just for bass tuning keys and a 10mm one for guitar tuners.

 

[James Carter]

I did order 2 bits of different brands that I'll be able to test out. Thanks everyone.