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Dunlop Straplock Problem

NOTE::: This is prolly 'way too much information for most people to read, but it is interesting. And I'm somewhat anal about this subject too. So there. :spit:

Before one declares a product as defective, there are a few considerations to make first.

According to the ICS, not all so-called Phillips screws and drivers are really Phillips™ brand either. There is a materials consortium on such designations.

There are also the SAE, JIS, DIN, Reed-Prince, Cross, and just plain cheap copies that will ruin a real Phillips™ screw head almost instantly.

Here's where the Phillips™ design is not really a good choice for many situations::

Created by Henry F. Phillips, the Phillips screw drive was purposely designed to cam out when the screw stalled, to prevent the fastener damaging the work or the head, instead (by) damaging the driver. This was dsign-caused by the relative difficulty in building torque limiting into the early drivers.

So - jumping out of the head is normal for a true Phillips - especially if the driver is hand held or the screw reaches a critical friction point.

There are quite a few other cruciform drive variants:::
  • Phillips (and it's industrial permutations)
  • Frearson
  • French Recess
  • JIS B 1012
  • DIN Nr. 3
  • Mortorq
  • Pozidriv
  • Supadriv

On a MIA, MIM, MII, MIK, MIJ or CIJ Fender product, there can be two or even three different standards in threads, head configuration and cruciform driver differences that are not obvious to the untrained eye.

PG screws are not even across-the-board the same for all years and models on a Fender-esque bass. A REAL Fender geek can spot the wrong screw at twenty paces however.

Why all the differences and incompatibility?

Sometimes it's just financial dynamics: if a manufacturer sends offshore companies a design, many times the ICS specs in the factory in which they are made aren't employed in the final product.

Many foreign companies won't have tooling for meeting much more than generic specifications, and in the worst case might produce a very poor copy of a spec that is different from their own indigenous standards.

This has been a problem that is constantly being debated and committee'd to death in attempts to arrive at some form of design parity.

Chewed up screw heads and ruined drivers are the result of manufacturers not complying with a modicum of some standards.

The ICS has been at this hammer-n-tongs for a long time, trying to at least standardize the industry.

Always make a test of the screw driver in the head of the screw first to see that it indeed fits and matches the design of the screw itself.

Finally::: Phillips™ screws and drivers are not a good choice for handheld installation by a hobbyist because of it's self-limiting torque capacity (read the whole article above ^).
 
I do have both brands of strap locks, but I think I like the Dunlops better now, the Schallers just have some other issues that come with them that make them just a tad annoying.

+1

Schallers have their own problems. I have broken a Dunlop screw off and that's a MAJOR pain. But as others have said key I found is first to drill a properly sized pilot hole and second to use wax on the screw. Since I've been doing that, no problemo. And always choose a properly sized screwdriver with a sharp tip. I like the ones with the replaceable bits best. when they start to get all chewed up you just insert a new tip.
 
I have had Schaller and Dunlop locks fail on me before. They both have that stupid tendency to unscrew the washer/nut that secures them. TWICE I have had the bass hit the ground from this. About a dozen other times I have caught it just in time.
I finally switched to EB Super Locks. They are kind of clunky looking, but have yet to come undone!
About the "screw too long for the hole" thing. I have always used a drill with a bit that is a tad narrower than the current hole to deepen it. I use a bit of masking tape on the bit to mark the depth so I dont overshoot. I also often mask the area next to the strap peg so no accidental squidges with the bit will mar the finish.
About phillips heads. I use quality tools made of good steel. I have a japanese set (japanese phillips is slightly narrower and shallower) that has zero signs of wear even though I have used them for about 5 years. My regular Craftsman set is also very good, though a bit more beat up from server work and car duty.
 
I always follow the instructions and have never had any problems.

Drill hole with 7/64" bit, 7/8" deep. Lubricate the tip of the screw with a small amount of bar soap and/or wax. Use a #2 Phillips head screwdriver.
 
I get a better screw and grind a little bit off of the edges on the grinder at work.
Or use the screw that the bass had in the first place.

If I had my druthers, I'd use a stainless insert and a machine screw with blue Loctite... but that's a royal pain in the rump.

The Dunlop-provided screws do kind of blow, but the fix is easy.

MY QUESTION IS:
Why isn't this in the HARDWARE section?!?!

:D
 
I noticed that with the first set I installed. Drill the hole slightly bigger than most stock screws and rub the screw threads on a candle or bar of soap before you screw em in.

-1
if anything you want to use a bit narrower than the size of the screw to deepen the strap peg hole.
In most cases the screw is binding up because it is encountering undrilled/untapped wood and will have to bite into that to keep going. In my experience strap button scews arent the self tapping kind. So you need to deepen the hole.
Another nerdy thing I do is use a bit of cut off bass or giutar string to measure the depth. Then compare it to the screw that is going in to see if I need to deepen the hole.
If I do I always use a slightly smaller bit. You want to leave the fit snug, so the threads will bite into the wood.

I have to say I am no luthier or guitar tech, but I have been maintaining my own basses for 30 years, and I am a very active jumpin around kind of bass player. SO I have always need locks or in the olden times I bought Ibanez strap pegs (the V shaped ones) to retain that wayward strap. Or just duct tape!
I did it wrong plenty of times and eventually learned how to put a strap button in there right.
I never used soap or anything. If the hole fits...but I guess it might help. I've used dish soap to get radiator hoses back on?
(god dang Ford water pumps!)