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Dura Tex refinishing questions

#21
OP, you may want to check out this thread about a cabinet I did last year using a product by Behr called Deck Over. It is available at Home Depot and you can get it in a variety of colors. It is similar in consistency and application to Duratex as I have used both. I was quite happy with the results.
Ampeg 410 Makeover with Behr DeckOver

ampeg 410.jpg
 
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#24
IMO it's not like the cab is fine furniture, just apply liberally and swab with plastic grocery bags. Result is nice. I have an older Genz cab that has the strand board, but surface prep would have been not worth the effort.
 
#28
I use spray on truck bed coating, the better grade not the cheaper stuff....as for finish prep, I don't worry about dents and gouges and I use a 40 grit flexible round disc on a sander/polisher (sometimes finish sand with 80 grit disc) which is flexible but eats right thru any glue or residue.....big gouges I filled with wood chips/sawdust and epoxy or superglue first, then sanded it down....sometimes epoxy in wood pieces.

I like to spray right over the 40 or 80 grit sanded finish so it always adheres....but i only have used it on plywood....never had a problem and it looks great.

Anything else, I have 5 gallons of very high quality exterior latex flat black which I roll on several coats to get some orange peel effect which hides dents and gouges good enough for me...this is for stuff that gets little road use....super easy to redo.

I am totally done with carpet and tolex except on vintage guitar amp stuff.
 
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#29
gjbassist said:
OP, you may want to check out this thread about a cabinet I did last year using a product by Behr called Deck Over. It is available at Home Depot and you can get it in a variety of colors. It is similar in consistency and application to Duratex as I have used both. I was quite happy with the results.
Ampeg 410 Makeover with Behr DeckOver

View attachment 842606
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Looks great!.......... but is it as tough as truck bedliner coating?
 
#30
ultra60 said:
A search for cab refinishing led me to a product called Dura Tex. I have a couple low end EV subs that the carpet covering is in bad shape. I'm interested in recovering, etc.

EV claims the cabinets are made of "Road Wood" whatever that may be. Does anybody know if the Dura Tex will stick to surfaces such as OSB, particle board, or this supposed road wood?

Thanks.
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"Road wood" LOL. I think it's kind of like road kill - you know, sheets of used plywood that flew off the salvage truck and landed in the road.
 
#31
I have found that latex paints never fully harden (a benefit for house paint if there are any cracks or expansion movement) with the exception of products like Durapoxy.
 
#32
Argh... pulled the carpet covering right off one of the subs. The adhesive left behind is not too bad except for around all edges/corners. Basically a sticky mess. I am not sure it will sand off. The cabinet was painted black before adhesive applied. I think if I just sand this I may have a bigger mess.

Suggestions for removing the adhesive?
 
#33
ultra60 said:
Argh... pulled the carpet covering right off one of the subs. The adhesive left behind is not too bad except for around all edges/corners. Basically a sticky mess. I am not sure it will sand off. The cabinet was painted black before adhesive applied. I think if I just sand this I may have a bigger mess.

Suggestions for removing the adhesive?
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I use a 40 grit flexible disc on a sander polisher....its going to eat into the wood a bit but will leave a coarse enough finish that the new coating will bite into it and stick from my experience.......follow with 80 grit if you want.
 
#34
ultra60 said:
Argh... pulled the carpet covering right off one of the subs. The adhesive left behind is not too bad except for around all edges/corners. Basically a sticky mess. I am not sure it will sand off. The cabinet was painted black before adhesive applied. I think if I just sand this I may have a bigger mess.

Suggestions for removing the adhesive?
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If it is water soluble such as hide glue, warm water. This was used on vintage cabinets. Try a test spot with a scraper.

Otherwise, a belt sander works well but they are agressive and can remove too much too fast. Sometimes you can wash the glue off with a solvent. Heat will also work. You can use a heat gun, but again, be careful.

It is interesting to note that the right amount of heat applied properly will soften any glue.
 
#35
I don't know what kind of adhesive they used. I have done a good bit of renovation on my house, so I have had to deal with different types of adhesives, mostly for carpet glued to wood. I don't like using solvents such as xylene or acetone because they evaporate quickly. I like using something that has a petroleum base because it softens adhesive and leaves it workable with a scraper, and it doesn't make me feel like I'm dying breathing fumes, which is a huge plus. I've tried near about everything. The last thing I tried not only worked the best, it was the cheapest--low VOC mineral spirits. The second best thing I used before the mineral spirits was Goo Gone, which is petroleum-based, but also has citrus oils. The problem with Goo Gone (besides the higher price) is that it can be a pain getting rid of the oily residue it leaves behind, and the orange smell, while pleasant at first, becomes sickening.
 
#36
ultra60 said:
Argh... pulled the carpet covering right off one of the subs. The adhesive left behind is not too bad except for around all edges/corners. Basically a sticky mess. I am not sure it will sand off. The cabinet was painted black before adhesive applied. I think if I just sand this I may have a bigger mess.

Suggestions for removing the adhesive?
Click to expand...
Another thing I have done is leave the cabinet outside in the cold....the adhesive will harden and sand off much easier....as I mentioned I prefer a sander polisher with a 40 grit flexible disc...this way you are less likely to sand a gouge whereas a belt sander there is no give at all, so you have to be very careful if you use a belt sander not to sand thru too much on edges etc.

Either way can work very well.... provided you have coarse enough sandpaper and change the sandpaper out once its clogged with glue....which will happen.
 
#37
staccatogrowl said:
I have a Duratex cab that has many flake-off areas on the front and back edges, with the largest being about 2" x 1/4". The area beneath the Duratex is white, and beneath the white is wood. Is this an easy repair? Sand the area, dab some Duratex, let dry?
Click to expand...

If that's one of my cabs, the white stuff is spackling, done back before I knew any better. I now use wood glue to fill and bond the end-grain on the round-overs.

Look for a message from me.
 
#38
Project update and another question. I ended up using a belt sander to remove all adhesive. Worked out fairly well, but there were a few sanding imperfections. Not a big deal...these are PA bass bins.

Applied two coats of Duratex, using a short nap roller. and things were looking pretty good. The texture looked more like leather. I should have stopped there. Instead, for the final coat, I used the 4" texture roller from Acry-tech. I smoothed it out as best as I could. However, the cabs now have a course sandpaper texture, that I don't care for.

Can this be sanded down? Not looking to remove all finish and start over. Just looking to smooth out the overall rough feel of the cabs.

Thanks
 
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#39
You can smooth it out, not removing it all, and reapply another top coat. This might be the best approach since it is over the entire cabinet and will give a consistent look.

With some skill, you can knock off the rough bits and polish it to cover the dull higher areas of the coating.
 
#40
Thanks for that reply. Will give it a try. The first couple coats were fairly impressive. A little uneven in the drying.. some shiny and some dull areas... this, even with me trying to apply an overall consistent wet look. It's thick stuff, so good to know it can be fixed.
 

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