• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Double Bass E and A string do not resonate well

S

semiretiredbass

Sep 3, 2010
4
0
#1
I recently purchased a used to upright bass (make and age unknown) and although it's generally playable, the E and A string don't seem to sing very well. The A is slightly better, but the E is practically totally dead, and hardly produces any pitch unless plucked extremely hard. The D and G strings seem okay.

Couple of notes:
- the previous owner played rockabilly, and the bridge is fixed to the body by way of an L bracket.
- the entire bass has been painted flat black.
- it is currently strung with weed wackers.

I'm not sure if any or all of the above listed items might be causing or contributing to the problem.

Thanks for helping a newb. Any assistance is much appreciated.

-D
 
#3
Gatorline is not known for its' sonorous tone. And that's coming from a guy who has known and loved a few weedwacker strings.

Where are you? If you're not too far maybe I could mail you E and A strings if I find something reasonably OK in my used string bag.

In the meantime, if you can post photos of the instrument, maybe we can tell you what's hiding beneath the rattlecan paint job. Especially the bridge. I gotta see that.
 
#4
On top of the house of horrors you describe, it is possible the soundpost has shifted. That could have a huge effect. I'm glad that bass is not in my shop. I think I would find that depressing. :-) (L-bracket!)

On the other hand, resurrecting such a wreck is rewarding...
 
#5
@KUNGfuSHERIFF - I appreciate the offer. I live near Toronto, Ontario. I'm not sure how far that is from you. I couldn't upload pictures, but I did my best attempt at linking them below.

@1st Bass - I looked into the F-hole last night and saw that the soundpost is off to the right. My understanding is that it's supposed to be dead centre below the bridge, but I'm very new to working on these instruments. I did buy it with the full understanding that it was an absolute disaster, but the instrument appears structurally sound, and like you said, there is a lot of satisfaction in bringing something back from the brink.

I've been a electric bass player for about 12 years and had a couple of years playing upright when I was in college for jazz. I have worked on a lot of electric instruments, but I realize this is a completely different beast. Thanks again for any insights.

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o565/theworkingman/2012-03-28212256.jpg


http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o565/theworkingman/2012-03-28212245.jpg

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o565/theworkingman/2012-03-28212338.jpg
 
#6
semiretiredbass said:
I looked into the F-hole last night and saw that the soundpost is off to the right. My understanding is that it's supposed to be dead centre below the bridge....
Click to expand...
No, it's supposed to be in the neighborhood of a tad south of the G side foot, give or take a little bit in either direction or side to side, whatever gives the best all-around response.
 
#8
Well, that's a creative use of L-brackets.

You have two main problems, both of which are the fault of the strings.

For someone playing exclusively amplified slap bass, wackers are a decent choice because they do a decent impression of a plain gut string at nominal cost. And in attractive neon colors.

Played pizzicato (with the fingers) the D and G strings can be OK but the A and especially the E are basically hopeless.

Also, because their tension is so low, they do not exert much downward pressure on the bridge. Lots of wacker-slapping guys I know complain about their bridges falling mid-set. Whoever owned yours obviously got sick of that problem and devised a permanent solution. :eek:

I think you may be able to substitute steel or nylon E&A strings, remove the brackets, and have a playable bass. That's a guess made from information gleaned over the Internet, so please don't hold me to it.

You may also have to replace the tailgut (the cord looped between the tailpiece and endpin) if it stretches or snaps under the stress of higher-tension strings. You can find a braided steel cable and clamp at the hardware store for a few bucks or order a kit from a bass shop for a few dollars more. When you install, don't criss-cross it like the tailgut that's in place now.

Please PM me your address. Time permitting I'll see if I have E&A strings that aren't embarrassingly bad that I can send you.

It's hard to tell what's hiding under that paint job. Most likely Chinese. Is there a label or identifying mark hiding inside?
 
#9
Wow! Thanks for the comprehensive reply. I feel hopeful that I can get this thing sounding at least passable. I don't plan on playing much slap bass - so I feel pretty comfortable forgoing the L-brackets:)

Seriously though, this forum has been an invaluable resource. Thanks very much taking the time to reply.
 
#11
Hi.

semiretiredbass said:
2012-03-28212256.jpg



2012-03-28212245.jpg


2012-03-28212338.jpg
Click to expand...

Now that's one bridge that's unlikely to collapse :).

As the others have said, the weedwackers aren't exactly the best choice if an A&E with some definition is the requirement. And scewing the bridge onto the top of the bass, sure isn't helping any.

Congrats on the purchase though, with a little TLC the bass probably serves You well.

Regards
Sam
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back