Double Bass E flat neck conversion?

[Dave Whitla]

Is it a difficult or involved job to convert a relatively cheap bass (plywood or hybrid) from an E flat neck to a D? Obviously I wouldn't be doing this myself, but I'm wondering if it's something I can ask a luthier to do for a reasonable price (ie. less than what the bass is worth!)...

 

[Matthew Tucker]

It'd be easier to go the other way. Eb to D means adding some wood at the bottom of the neck mortise which is a neck-out job. Maybe cheat the bridge a bit.

 

[Phil Rowan]

My Kay is a D neck, and my Lang is an Eb neck. When I first got the Lang, it took a little adjusting, but in time I was able to play on it with no problem. Now, I actually kind of like the Eb neck better.

Switching back and forth was at first a little confusing, but I adjusted in much the same why as I did learning the new Eb neck. All it takes is some practice, and your hands/arms ought to be able to adjust automatically as needed (IMHO).

 

[Jake deVilliers]

How much is your bass worth?

 

[Dave Whitla]

It's not for me. At the music school where I teach we have a bunch of different basses. One student who has been playing on a bass with an e flat neck for a while is having some major intonation issues. Today, on a hunch, I had him try someone else's D necked bass and the change was instantaneous. No more problems. I couldn't tell you why it worked for him this way, but it did, so now I need to get him on a D neck soon, one way or another!

 

[Dave Whitla]

But in answer to your question, the bass is probably not worth much more than 1000 euro.

 

[Matthew Tucker]

Was the string length and neck thickness the same on both basses?

 

[KSB - Ken Smith]

Measure for me the distance from the Nut undersides (string vibrating) to the bottom of the heel of the Neck as it sits in the block by the top.

Making an extended false Nut is the easiest and cheapest way. It will also shorten the strings length as well.

I have both Eb and D necks. The Eb allows me to reach the F# and G with much less effort than with a D neck.

 

[Phil Rowan]

I have both Eb and D necks. The Eb allows me to reach the F# and G with much less effort than with a D neck.

One of the main reasons I prefer the Eb neck now.

 

[Matthew Tucker]

Making an extended false Nut is the easiest and cheapest way. It will also shorten the strings length as well.

It will also change your reference point in the lower positions. I tried it, but don't like the way it does that, nor the odd look of a longer nut. I find it easier to adjust for Eb/D.

 

[KSB - Ken Smith]

It will also change your reference point in the lower positions. I tried it, but don't like the way it does that, nor the odd look of a longer nut. I find it easier to adjust for Eb/D.

Well, the most recent one I did was on my Loveri. The Neck itself was a bit long and the stop between D and Eb. The String length was long as well so I made a 5/8" false Nut, cheated the Bridge a hair and got a perfect D-neck and a 41 1/2" String length. I could move the Bridge down for a 42" if I want but at 41 1/2, the F# and G are where I want them. This is a large long Bass made in 1873 and cut down in 1937. We use different dimensions today so "getting used to it" as you state Matt is not really the best option in my opinion.

The Loveri is now in restoration having the Back done. When it's completed, I will post pics so you can see how odd it doesn't look. It just looks slightly different but the extended False Nut (inlaid into the Fingerboard) makes up for the 'odd sized' Neck that was grafted to the Scroll back in '37. Now it feels 'right' and plays like a dream.

I played the Loveri at nearly 43", 42.5", 42" and 41.5". I think it's best now at the 41.5" range.

This Bass has many odd or rather different features. The Neck Shim under the Fingerboard is actually Purfled. The same Purfling was inlaid down the center of the Back. The Back was just split down the center, re-joined and widened with a strip of old Peruvian Walnut (aged 15 yrs) about 12mm/1/2" wide to fix the Back and let it hang over the edges which were less than flush before. The entire Scroll/pegbox is also entirely Purfled as well using thinner/darker purfling which was also used to Purfle the entire Top and Back when all the Bouts were cut to its current size and shape.

So the False Nut on this Bass is the lease of the odd looking things as compared to a conventional Bass.

 

[Matthew Tucker]

I was actually talking about reference points, not string length.

"getting used to it" - which i didn't state in so many words - might, though, be the best option on a cheap ply bass. If you use a false nut you have to get used to that anyway, don't you?

I presume that preserving the "odd or rather different features" is why you chose to use the false nut on the Loveri.

But if the bass did not have those features, why would you have not just shortened the neck with a spline graft?

 

[arnoldschnitzer]

Install a brass tack in the back of the neck where the player's thumb should go to sound a "d".

 

[Dave Whitla]

Thanks for all the input, guys. I agree, Matthew, that if it was me I'd probably just get used to the different neck (and althoughI don't really like the feel of it myself, it definately is easier to reach a G!). The reason I'm asking here is that this student played remakable more in tune and more at ease on an unfamiliar D-necked bass than he does on his usual E flat-necked one which he has used and practised on for the past couple of years. Since the bass is owned by the School of Music where I teach, which doesn't have a huge repair budget, I'm wondering if a conversion of some type is a practical option, or whether I should just be looking for a completely different instrument for him.

I don't really like the feel of false nuts, but Arnold's thumbtack suggestion is intriguing...