Alright, since this is a test bass to learn to do polishing and other little fun stuff, I have decided to go with Tung oil on the neck and Danish oil (Golden oak) on the body.
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eBay J-Bass kit thread
- Thread starter NickInMesa
- Start date
Suggestion and some encouragement:
the nut is crappy and plastic -- but may sound fine. BUT, it's also a chance to try some of the nut shaping tasks and techniques. There is a good thread about "makeshift tools" where you can find cheap options for the slotting files, and how to get feeler gauges. So if you take a shot at installing that nut, and then setting it up, you can learn a bit more, and then you can snag some more blanks off eBay and try shaping them. A nut from a luthier may cost you 40-60 bucks, but a set of needle files and feeler gauges will only cost you 15-20, a few additional nut blanks another 10-15 -- lots of chances at it. And since the nut is integral to the final setup, it's a skill you'll benefit from in the long run a lot more than finishing.
Plus, on ebay I've snagged nuts that needed only to be sanded down to a width to fit a bass's existing nut slot -- so you will have nice options to wrap it up without a ton of work (I got a graphite one for a project that was usable without any adjustment to the slots, for 7 bucks shipped, I think).
looking forward to more progress shots!!
ltt
Hey LTT, thanks for the kind words.
I may very well keep using all the parts that come with it, and only add ferrules (although I may buy a full set off eBay if possible) and a ground at the bridge.
I have a set of feeler gauges already due to my past as a MX rider (I still own two dirt bikes but am going to sell at least one, I am just... tired of dirt).
I will read about nut shaping. What kind of material would you suggest, if I were to also try making my own nut?
I am going to post more photos right now.
I may very well keep using all the parts that come with it, and only add ferrules (although I may buy a full set off eBay if possible) and a ground at the bridge.
I have a set of feeler gauges already due to my past as a MX rider (I still own two dirt bikes but am going to sell at least one, I am just... tired of dirt).
I will read about nut shaping. What kind of material would you suggest, if I were to also try making my own nut?
I am going to post more photos right now.
English is your "second" language? You write better English than most people for whom it is their primary language.
So I sanded the neck yesterday and started to rub tung oil.
Sanded with 400, then 800, then 1000 grit.
Already 2 coats, I can tell I will have to sand it tomorrow evening with 400, when it has cured, as there are definitely some irregularities due to the grain raising.
I started sanding the body today. I had to cover a few nicks and tiny holes with putty and sand it over nicely. The body board has actually quite a bit of nicks. No clue what's the story behind this bass body, really, as well as the kit itself, the seller is totally mute about it. I may have to leave it at that.
Started with 220, down to 1000. There were a few porous areas that required a bit of sanding, actually, and I had to sand extra for the little portions that were nicked. The bridge pup route has a couple irregularities, I think they just used crappy router bits, or just did not bother sharpening them regularly. But it should look good from afar.
My wife now says it's as smooth as a baby's butt.
Note that I used a 1/8" long bit to drill from under the bridge to the pup route to add a ground wire.
Click on the photos for higher rez version.
I would like to use Watco Danish Oil for the finish and keep it natural. Note that I tested their golden oak color in the bridge pup route and neck pocket. I actually do not like it that much. Someone advised me to use something darker, like cherry or mahogany. What do you think? There is a Rockler shop 10 minutes from my work.
There is a tiny eye on the back. Not a big issue. Also the white stripe is just a tiny microscopic groove caught by the flash, it is completely invisible otherwise.
Sanded with 400, then 800, then 1000 grit.
Already 2 coats, I can tell I will have to sand it tomorrow evening with 400, when it has cured, as there are definitely some irregularities due to the grain raising.
I started sanding the body today. I had to cover a few nicks and tiny holes with putty and sand it over nicely. The body board has actually quite a bit of nicks. No clue what's the story behind this bass body, really, as well as the kit itself, the seller is totally mute about it. I may have to leave it at that.
Started with 220, down to 1000. There were a few porous areas that required a bit of sanding, actually, and I had to sand extra for the little portions that were nicked. The bridge pup route has a couple irregularities, I think they just used crappy router bits, or just did not bother sharpening them regularly. But it should look good from afar.
My wife now says it's as smooth as a baby's butt.
Note that I used a 1/8" long bit to drill from under the bridge to the pup route to add a ground wire.
Click on the photos for higher rez version.
I would like to use Watco Danish Oil for the finish and keep it natural. Note that I tested their golden oak color in the bridge pup route and neck pocket. I actually do not like it that much. Someone advised me to use something darker, like cherry or mahogany. What do you think? There is a Rockler shop 10 minutes from my work.
There is a tiny eye on the back. Not a big issue. Also the white stripe is just a tiny microscopic groove caught by the flash, it is completely invisible otherwise.
I've got one bass with a plastic nut, one with the graphite I got on ebay, a few guitars with tusq (and two tusq guitar blanks), and currently I'm experimenting with some ebony -- I got some scrap blocks on ebay, and have been trying my hand at creating nuts from scratch. I used the ebony to make a new bridge for a mandolin I've got, and it came out really nice. Ebony is pretty straight forward to work with.
one nut I got on ebay was plastic, and a bit too thick for the neck I got it for -- so I just sanded it down, fit it in, and it worked just fine.
So the way I went at it was to look for nuts that were already slotted and were the exact right width to match the neck I was working on -- that, hopefully, saves you the step of measuring the spacing and starting the slots from scratch. then I started looking for blanks -- which saves you the rough cutting. THEN I had the courage (and materials) to try making one from scratch.
cheers!
ltt
one nut I got on ebay was plastic, and a bit too thick for the neck I got it for -- so I just sanded it down, fit it in, and it worked just fine.
So the way I went at it was to look for nuts that were already slotted and were the exact right width to match the neck I was working on -- that, hopefully, saves you the step of measuring the spacing and starting the slots from scratch. then I started looking for blanks -- which saves you the rough cutting. THEN I had the courage (and materials) to try making one from scratch.
cheers!
ltt
Definitely unbleached bone. You can usually find a little somewhere under the guitar stuff on ebay. Brass is another good material, and there's a great metal warehouse in Phoenix (probably not too far from you) that sells brass scrap for cheap.
Looking good bro! I'm really excited to see this one come together.
Will the bridge cover that eye? Is the thing to the right a pre-drilled ground wire hole? Or part of the eye?
Will the bridge cover that eye? Is the thing to the right a pre-drilled ground wire hole? Or part of the eye?
Nah it's not an eye, it's a marker that was drilled to know where to place the 5 screws.
The bigger hole is the one I drilled for the ground wire.
Right now it is in the polishing stage.
I am using dark walnut Watco danish oil and it appears to be the right decision, as the few nicks and defects (this is not a Warmoth body) will make it look rustic.
It is actually not bad so far.
Alrighty, the neck is almost done, I need to cut for the nut (which is probably the most complex operation of all and I am probably going to purchase a little jig saw just for the occasion).
The body finish is still a little tacky, as I wet sanded it for the last time 2 days ago.
Photos to come soon.
The body finish is still a little tacky, as I wet sanded it for the last time 2 days ago.
Photos to come soon.
Sounds great mate, I'm enjoying your progression 
Hope your having fun with it!
Have you decided that your going to do with the bridge yet?
Hope your having fun with it!Have you decided that your going to do with the bridge yet?
Sounds great mate, I'm enjoying your progression
Have you decided that your going to do with the bridge yet?
I am waiting on a Tusq bridge but I am ready to try brass as well.
I have ordered a set of tuners as well. I am also going to shield the cavities.
I will post some photos soon, I swear. I coach softball, it takes some of my free time.
So here is where I am now.
Photos below. Click for higher rez. I know it is not perfect. This is a learning platform.
This one shows the shielding. As soldering is quasi impossible, I have to pre-drill some holes for small screws to fasten ground wires.
View of the back. You can see the neck is glossy, but not like nitro, just a discrete shine.
This was the first time I cut for a nut, and it took me about 1 hour to do this with a Dremel for the initial cut and needle files to get it somewhat square and even. I know what to do to wreck the rosewood around the cut, now
I placed the guard, bridge and controls, plus connected the neck to see what it will look like.
Looks like I will have to sand off a bit of the inside of the neck pocked as well as a bit of the pick guard in that area as well.
What do you think? Invalid Link Removed
- Neck finished with Formby's glossy Tung oil (8 coats overall) Sanded after coat 2, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8
- Body finished with Watco Danish oil (4 coats) & waxed once - Note that I had to let it cure for one full week, which is why I applied so many coats on the neck
- Pickup and control cavities shielded with aluminum tape (I should have got copper tape, as I forgot how hard it is to solder aluminum -yes it is possible). I still need to ground it all
- Bridge ground wire installed
- Nut slot cut and sanded (job is not super perfect and I chipped a microscopic bit of the rosewood which I will either fill or glue back on)
Photos below. Click for higher rez. I know it is not perfect. This is a learning platform.
This one shows the shielding. As soldering is quasi impossible, I have to pre-drill some holes for small screws to fasten ground wires.
View of the back. You can see the neck is glossy, but not like nitro, just a discrete shine.
This was the first time I cut for a nut, and it took me about 1 hour to do this with a Dremel for the initial cut and needle files to get it somewhat square and even. I know what to do to wreck the rosewood around the cut, now
I placed the guard, bridge and controls, plus connected the neck to see what it will look like.
Looks like I will have to sand off a bit of the inside of the neck pocked as well as a bit of the pick guard in that area as well.
What do you think? Invalid Link Removed
Looks great! i've had my eye on buying a kit aswell, but haven't found one yet.
imho I think the pickguard is way too bright, if it were a little darker (or removed) It'd look way better.
The rest looks plain fantastic, love how the wood went from bright to nice and dark. What did you use there?
edit: nvm read it more above
imho I think the pickguard is way too bright, if it were a little darker (or removed) It'd look way better.
The rest looks plain fantastic, love how the wood went from bright to nice and dark. What did you use there?
edit: nvm read it more above
Watco Danish oil, I think dark walnut. The goal was to put a bass together on the cheap with whatever I could find that would be available at the local hardware store.
I already cheated by ordering a Tusq nut and chrome tuners from StewMac.
I think someone is willing to donate a brass nut, which would be awesome (I will grind this one at least for the exercise) and someone else authentic pickups from a MIM 08 Jazz.
Thank you for the help!
Hi Sindri. I am not sure if the bass is BA, but one thing is for sure it does not look like an SX to me.
The Headstock on the SX is more "Fendery". I strongly believe it was made in Asia, though.
It should make a decent bass once I am done with it. Hopefully!
I should be finishing it this week-end.
All I need to do now is drill, baby, drill.
They are not selling it right now, but you can look for "Bass guitar kit" and see an equivalent, better quality than mine, made by Saga.
The one I got was sold by a seller named "nationalmusicsupply", for about one third of the price of the Saga kit. You can find the parts sold individually now, I believe they think they can make more money by parting these kits up.
I have read good reviews about the Saga kit.
