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Ebony block inlays in maple fretboard - is the density difference a problem?

A

Alan i guess

Mar 6, 2020
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#1
Okay more specifically... Not block inlays but the ones that just go all the way across the fret. Like a shallow dado (not totally set on ebony but considering it - I'd like to use wood as opposed to plastic composites or whatever). I'm just wondering if the difference in the densities of the woods will give me any trouble as they flex and expand and contract with varying humidity, temperature, etc. Any insight is appreciated!

Alan
 
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#3
Alan i guess said:
Okay more specifically... Not block inlays but the ones that just go all the way across the fret. Like a shallow dado (not totally set on ebony but considering it - I'd like to use wood as opposed to plastic composites or whatever). I'm just wondering if the difference in the densities of the woods will give me any trouble as they flex and expand and contract with varying humidity, temperature, etc. Any insight is appreciated!

Alan
Click to expand...
Depends on glue if it would be affected appreciably by humidity/temp changes.
 
#8
To minimize unequal changes, the grain in the neck and inlay need to both be going in the same direction. Obviously, the grain runs the length of the neck, the grain in the inlay shoud also. The greatest change is in the direction of the grain. The thinner the inlay, the less problem there will be. If you can get a precise fit, titebond is a fine glue. If you have much gap to fill, I'd use epoxy, maybe tinted black with the addition of a smidge of tempra paint (dry), or some laser toner.
 
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#12
I've often thought that Block inlays were....not the best idea, structurally. The more grain you interrupt, the less robust a neck is. All my basses are free of position makers - partly because I like that look, but also because I like them as strong and stable as possible.
 
#13
micguy said:
I've often thought that Block inlays were....not the best idea, structurally. The more grain you interrupt, the less robust a neck is. All my basses are free of position makers - partly because I like that look, but also because I like them as strong and stable as possible.
Click to expand...
Most inlays are 1/16" deep and if glued properly do not impact rigidity of the neck in any appreciable way. No offense but that is another of the many myths that are out there. Go into your basement and see how many holes are drilled into your floor joists for wires and such.
 
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#14
Slidlow said:
Most inlays are 1/16" deep and if glued properly do not impact rigidity of the neck in any appreciable way. No offense but that is another of the many myths that are out there.
Click to expand...

Whether or not it's an appreciable difference depends on your definition of "appreciable". Call it a myth if you want, I'll just do the math. Stiffness goes up by the thickness cubed - .05" more thickness on a 1 inch thick beam adds 16 percent in stiffness. If it's a thin neck (like a Geddy J), then the difference is a bit more near the nut.
 
#15
Can you quantify the impact of removing a piece of wood, then gluing in a separate piece of wood? Something tells me it's not as significant as simply removing material (making the beam thinner).

Also, can you quantify the amount of stiffness we need in a neck? I have no data myself, but I feel that it's probably trivial (and very common) to build necks that are way stiffer than they "need" to be.
 
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#17
Slidlow said:
Most inlays are 1/16" deep and if glued properly do not impact rigidity of the neck in any appreciable way. No offense but that is another of the many myths that are out there. Go into your basement and see how many holes are drilled into your floor joists for wires and such.
Click to expand...

I one worries about inlays, one should REALLY worry about frets. Twenty+ deeper slots going all the way across the board.
 
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#18
gln1955 said:
I one worries about inlays, one should REALLY worry about frets. Twenty+ deeper slots going all the way across the board.
Click to expand...

Luckily, the frets are in compression. You really wouldn't want to cut slots on the back side of the neck, as those fibers are in tension. Fret slots are cut so that they're typically an interference fit. If they're glued as well, so much the better. Inlays are done in different ways - some good, some not as good.
 
#19
micguy said:
Luckily, the frets are in compression. You really wouldn't want to cut slots on the back side of the neck, as those fibers are in tension. Fret slots are cut so that they're typically an interference fit. If they're glued as well, so much the better. Inlays are done in different ways - some good, some not as good.
Click to expand...
So if large ebony inlays are glued in with an epoxy (and one that cures hard) then technically they would also be in compression and hence the beam thickness wouldn't be compromised. As the ebony would have a crushing strength greater then the maple then maybe you can add that to your equation? I think this is being overthought.
 
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#20
Slidlow said:
So if large ebony inlays are glued in with an epoxy (and one that cures hard) then technically they would also be in compression and hence the beam thickness wouldn't be compromised. As the ebony would have a crushing strength greater then the maple then maybe you can add that to your equation? I think this is being overthought.
Click to expand...

If the epoxy is done right along the edges, so that the fibers there are in compression (without a gap at the joint), yes, it could be made to work. The biggest question is if the edges would separate over time with humidity cycles, epoxy shrinkage, etc.

Yes, we're probably overthinking at this point.
 
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