• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

EHX quality control...

Does it exist? SRsly?

I bought a Steel Leather out of curiosity. It lasted 2 stomps.

TWO!

I returned it the next day as defective to the vendor and got my money back.

My good friend plays guitar in a signed band locally.
Their bass player got the Bass Muff last month.
It died at their practice this weekend.

*** EHX? :help:
 
Here's the problem. EHX is possibly the biggest company, in terms of units sold, that uses 3PDT stomp switches. These switches have a much higher failure rate than the tactile switching that the other big guys like Boss and Digitech use. Now, in terms of percentages, these switches have the same failure rate in EHX units as in all boutique boxes that use them. But EHX moves way more units than any boutique, so in hard numbers, you're going to see a lot more EHX pedals whose bypass switches die than other companies.

If musicians were not allergic to buffered bypass, or if the big companies thought people were willing to pay extra money for relay switching and the extra R+D money to design it, you wouldn't see so many switch failures.
 
Well that makes sense.

But I think it really runs the risk of turning potential customers off to their products.

I really want a Cathedral Reverb but dang, I am not paying that much to have a switch fail. :rolleyes:
 
I've owned three EHX boxes, and two of them had switch failures. One was an Electric Mistress that I bought in the mid-90s. The switch failed on it within a few months - I'd switch it on, and it would lose just about all of the signal. It was still under warranty, and EHX fixed it no charge (I don't think I even had to pay shipping). It has worked great ever since.

The other was a Bassballs, which I also got in the mid-90s. It laste longer, but then developed similar problems. I never really liked it that much, so I probably gave it to someone or maybe just lost it over the years.

The third pedal is a Micro MetalMuff that I got used within the last year. I haven't used it that much, so I can't say if that one won't have the same problems.

I guess my point is that I've had bad experiences, too, but it may be worth sending it back for repairs under warranty.
 
To be fair to them, they use the exact same switch that all boutiquers use. So the same exact thing holds true for any boutique pedal you'd be interested in buying.


Well, that MAY be true but I would like to see proof.
Similar sure, THE SAME.... I doubt it.

Same 'design' or from the same factory? See my point?

FWIW EHX are the ONLY pedals I have had a switch fail on.
I own and use more pedals than I care to admit.
 
ive owned a few ehx pedals (currently only own one) with no problems. however, i have had other electronic devices simply fail, which works by the same principle, in that no matter what you do youre going to have a certain percentage of lemons.

i wouldnt completely ignore a company just because you had some freak failure experience. i know that, statistically speaking, each purchase is an isolated incident, and therefore buying more doesnt guarantee they wont be defective (or at least decrease the probability that you will get a messed up unit), but i cant imagine you buying more of them with the same result.
 
Well, that MAY be true but I would like to see proof.
Similar sure, THE SAME.... I doubt it.

Same 'design' or from the same factory? See my point?

FWIW EHX are the ONLY pedals I have had a switch fail on.
I own and use more pedals than I care to admit.

THE SAME. New Sensor manufactures EHX's stuff, and these are same switches that everyone uses. In a sense, the boutiquers actually buy them from EHX (but from their manufacturing wing rather than the EHX brand). The problem isn't their manufacturing quality but the reality of this type of switch.

I know this doesn't help you, since you got two bad ones, but the only reason EHX has such a seemingly high failure rate is because they ship more units with these switches in a year than a boutique will ever.
 
THE SAME. New Sensor manufactures EHX's stuff, and these are same switches that everyone uses. In a sense, the boutiquers actually buy them from EHX (but from their manufacturing wing rather than the EHX brand). The problem isn't their manufacturing quality but the reality of this type of switch.

I know this doesn't help you, since you got two bad ones, but the only reason EHX has such a seemingly high failure rate is because they ship more units with these switches in a year than a boutique will ever.

Ok, I will take your word for it! Its math, plain and simple.
And thanks for helping me to understand this.
 
don't they have some policy like they'll fix most broken pedals for $15 once they're out of warranty?

Yes - and they fixed my Clone Theory a month after it was out of warranty as if it was still covered. I have only good things to say about their handling of the situation. And that wasn't a switch - it was a depth pot that went super-weird.
 
Here is FACT...

There are TWO manufacturers (root manufacturers, not re-branding) of 3PDT switches, which is what EHX and ALL manufacturers of true bypass pedals use (at least the ones who don't use relays). There are multiple brands, but all are manufactured in the same Chinese factory. Cliff, New Sensor (which is EHX's parent company), Fulltone, they all have branded switches, but all are made by the same company in China. The fact is that while 3pdt siwtches are common, 3pdt stomp switches are a specialty switch which is generally only used in musical effects, and as such only one company still makes them.

I'm a boutique builder, so there's your proof. We all source from the same barrel.

Incidentally, switch failure is a much less common occurence when people don't slam their foot down when switching. I'm not saying you are, just making a general observation. There is just no good reason to slam your foot down on a switch.

I can speak to the precentage failure point too. I probably only ship 20 to 30 units a year (All I do are custom one-offs), and I've only had 3 switches fail in 3 years. EHX, well, they have a WHOLE LOT MORE units out there, and thus, more broken switches. Bottom line is no matter how sturdy the switch, you are still stomping on it and it's still a mechanical part.

tactile switching in and of itself offers no more reliability solely on the switching itself. BUT with a Boss or Ibanez pedal, for example, even the hardest stomp won't send very much trauma at all to the tiny switch below, due to the the pedal's design where a large metal or plastic foot pedal is taking the brunt of impact and the metal frame stops the actuator short of pressing further than it should.

Well, that MAY be true but I would like to see proof.
Similar sure, THE SAME.... I doubt it.

Same 'design' or from the same factory? See my point?

FWIW EHX are the ONLY pedals I have had a switch fail on.
I own and use more pedals than I care to admit.
 
Here is FACT...

There are TWO manufacturers (root manufacturers, not re-branding) of 3PDT switches, which is what EHX and ALL manufacturers of true bypass pedals use (at least the ones who don't use relays). There are multiple brands, but all are manufactured in the same Chinese factory. Cliff, New Sensor (which is EHX's parent company), Fulltone, they all have branded switches, but all are made by the same company in China. The fact is that while 3pdt siwtches are common, 3pdt stomp switches are a specialty switch which is generally only used in musical effects, and as such only one company still makes them.

I'm a boutique builder, so there's your proof. We all source from the same barrel.

Incidentally, switch failure is a much less common occurence when people don't slam their foot down when switching. I'm not saying you are, just making a general observation. There is just no good reason to slam your foot down on a switch.

I can speak to the precentage failure point too. I probably only ship 20 to 30 units a year (All I do are custom one-offs), and I've only had 3 switches fail in 3 years. EHX, well, they have a WHOLE LOT MORE units out there, and thus, more broken switches. Bottom line is no matter how sturdy the switch, you are still stomping on it and it's still a mechanical part.

tactile switching in and of itself offers no more reliability solely on the switching itself. BUT with a Boss or Ibanez pedal, for example, even the hardest stomp won't send very much trauma at all to the tiny switch below, due to the the pedal's design where a large metal or plastic foot pedal is taking the brunt of impact and the metal frame stops the actuator short of pressing further than it should.

Ok, I will take your word for it! Its math, plain and simple.
And thanks for helping me to understand this.

Ditto. ;)
 
Well that makes sense.

But I think it really runs the risk of turning potential customers off to their products.

I really want a Cathedral Reverb but dang, I am not paying that much to have a switch fail. :rolleyes:

Learn to replace switches. Soldering is fun and easy to do!

i've bought two newer ehx pedals recently and they've been perfect.

Ive also bought 2 EHX pedals within the last 2 years, play with them at least twice a week and niether has failed me.

FWIW EHX are the ONLY pedals I have had a switch fail on.
I own and use more pedals than I care to admit.

The only pedal Ive had switch problems with was a Digitech BP200. I emailed customer support and they sent me a new switch free and I swapped it out myself.


Incidentally, switch failure is a much less common occurence when people don't slam their foot down when switching. I'm not saying you are, just making a general observation. There is just no good reason to slam your foot down on a switch.

I was going to add, be careful how hard you stomp your box.
 
The angle of stomp also matters. One easy thing to do with your new pedals: if the switch has a lot of threading exposed on the outside of the box, loosen, move, and retighten the nuts so that almost no thread shows. This will lower the switch into the box a bit and the angle at which you activate the switch will automatically become more straight-on, which is one way to lessen switch failure.
 

Latest posts