Cool!
I would try to replace the 3 screws with setscrews (using Lok-Tite), for a cleaner look AND the ability to tighten with an Allen wrench, instead of "finger-tight".
(Insert "Screw"/"Finger-Tight" Jokes here... Beevis).
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Double Bass endpin rubber tips...
- Thread starter groooooove
- Start date
Cool!
I would try to replace the 3 screws with setscrews (using Lok-Tite), for a cleaner look AND the ability to tighten with an Allen wrench, instead of "finger-tight".
(Insert "Screw"/"Finger-Tight" Jokes here... Beevis).
I tried the Wolf endpin ball but very quickly returned it as it was very slippery on my wooden floor. Since then I have been using these kind of walking cane tips. This is a 12 mm version I use on my Stagg EUB.
I had to make a small aluminium bush for it to fit the stock endpin but it works great. You can read the story here: https://staggeub.wordpress.com/2014/06/12/endpin-rattle/
I have used the same rubbers on 4 basses now in various diameters. My main bass has a large diameter walnut endpin and has one too. I have found these to be very sticky even at quite an angle, cheap (about 1-2 dollar a piece) and durable.
I had to make a small aluminium bush for it to fit the stock endpin but it works great. You can read the story here: https://staggeub.wordpress.com/2014/06/12/endpin-rattle/
I have used the same rubbers on 4 basses now in various diameters. My main bass has a large diameter walnut endpin and has one too. I have found these to be very sticky even at quite an angle, cheap (about 1-2 dollar a piece) and durable.
so i just got these.
out of the box, they stunk. slipping all over every surface i tried to play on. since i had a pack of 6, i was willing to experiement. took a file to one, just to mark up the surface. works great now... took the file to the rest of them, stuffed 'em back in the box and now i know i've got 5 endpin rubbers that fit and will work, and i paid a total of $11. so even if they don't last long at all this is a perfectly reasonable solution.
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Cool!
I would try to replace the 3 screws with setscrews (using Lok-Tite), for a cleaner look AND the ability to tighten with an Allen wrench, instead of "finger-tight".
(Insert "Screw"/"Finger-Tight" Jokes here... Beevis).
That's a great idea. I'm getting them as soon as possible. It's a drag trying to tighten the flathead screws without scuffing up your knuckles. Allen wrenches don't slip. My metal peg (rod) is too small in diameter and doesn't fit snuggly into the larger diameter of the Wolf, like .22 cal. cartridge in a .32 bore. My only real complaint with the Wolf.
"Too narrow" was the wrong term in my original post.
"Too narrow" was the wrong term in my original post.
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- Aug 1, 2005
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- Private Inventor - Bass Capos
If there is play in the joint then it's gonna get loose even with set screws. Also, the set screws aren't an option if you want to quickly remove the thing and use your point. If not, and you don't want to replace your pin, I'd recommend gluing it on with epoxy.
The same linseed oil you'd use on the neck of a bass is a good non-toxic alternative to Loctite. It has about the same hold as the lightest (green) Loctite and it sets up gummy so it dampens vibration extremely well. It's kinda old school now but for years it was what you used on spoke threads building bicycle wheels.
See my edit above. I don't think mine will glue well. The original Wolf had the large plastic thumb screw for quick removal. I guess the idea was to set two of the screws tightly ( Lok-Tite or linseed oil) and use the thumb screw.
Jake deVilliers
Commercial User
- May 24, 2006
- 6,349
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- Owner of The Bass Spa, String Repairman at Long & McQuade Vancouver
Its still very useful on those annoying, poorly-fitting Fender saddle adjusting screws!
You are correct, robobass! Who wants the hassle of lugging around (1) Allen Wrench, and wasting 15 seconds to slightly loosen 2/3 set screws??
Silly Me...
I love you, man... (you know, like a Viking! Nothing "weird").
Thanks.
Hardware store! I found that Ace Hardware has rubber chair leg tips in 4-pack blister packs, in various sizes, for under $5.00 a set. Now I have about a dozen backup tips in my bag. 1/2" fits my Kay, but others are available, and much cheaper than cane tips or actual music store supplies (over $10.00 for one!).
Another solution is to simply have 2 (removable) endpins - one with some form of "rubber tip" and 1 with a "spike".
I always carry a second endpin (with just a "spike" tip), made from 3/8" Drill Rod - very hard and precise. I found a shop here in Burbank, CA, that fabricates Suits of Armour and Medieval Weaponry for the Moving Pictures. They ground the tip into a spike (Ouch!) and added some "dimples" for the screw to engage. See below.
(It looked like a lost episode of "Sons of Anarchy" when I picked up the endpin. I think I caught a few chuckles and eye-rolls from the crew).
By God, I do love LA, sometimes!
Thanks.
I always carry a second endpin (with just a "spike" tip), made from 3/8" Drill Rod - very hard and precise. I found a shop here in Burbank, CA, that fabricates Suits of Armour and Medieval Weaponry for the Moving Pictures. They ground the tip into a spike (Ouch!) and added some "dimples" for the screw to engage. See below.
(It looked like a lost episode of "Sons of Anarchy" when I picked up the endpin. I think I caught a few chuckles and eye-rolls from the crew).
By God, I do love LA, sometimes!
Thanks.
- Aug 1, 2005
- 3,546
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- Private Inventor - Bass Capos
I'd recommend a shallower point, which will stay sharp longer. I do mine at 75°. Also, I don't see why there is such resistance to my friction plug idea. One pin. No tools or threads. Couldn't be simpler.
Thanks for the point info - I don't think I'll be going back to the "Sons of Anarchy" shop soon. The point has remained very sharp for many years, but if/when it needs sharpening, I'll ask for a shallower point.
Also, the "press-fit" aspect (friction plug) is very unappealing to me - is it easily reversible? If so, will it loosen over multiple cycles, or is it designed to be a permanent installation?
I'm not currently in the market, but you asked for feedback.
(I still am digging your C-ext. wheel. Thanks.)
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I would tend to disagree with this statement if we are talking about the stock super end pin ball. I had one on my Shen for quite a while. It went through a ton of gigs, climate changes, etc. and it never loosened on me. When I went to remove it to put on my new bass, it took maybe a minute to loosen the three screws. Unfortunately it does not fit my new bass, otherwise it would be on there.
Jake deVilliers
Commercial User
- May 24, 2006
- 6,349
- 607
- Disclosures
- Owner of The Bass Spa, String Repairman at Long & McQuade Vancouver
I don't see resistance Rob, I see players sharing ideas!
why not just one endpin with a spike, and threads for a rubber tip to screw into?
thats what's on both of my basses- isint the 2nd endpin overkill?
i do love the story of getting it fabricated, though...
ahh. i don't think i've ever had that problem. good to know though... next time there's a mysterious buzz, that'll be on my list of possibilities to look for.
i'm not in the habit of using the spike, but when i am on a surface i can use it on..... nothing is better than the spike. i've heard cellists say it can make you sound louder (coupling with floor, i guess?) too.
