CA glue is a much better alternative in terms of prepping, applying, and finishing. Once it's buffed it's basically impenetrable too.
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Failed fretless conversion: this bass might be dundies
- Thread starter Toastfuzz
- Start date
Use Acetone and a cotton rags to strip the Epoxy off. After stripping use Naphtha on a cotton rag to clean any residue off the wood. Fill your fret slots with thin wood or plastic strips to keep the neck/fingerboard stable, then sand/level the surface after adjusting the T-rod with 320, 400 and 600 grit papers. Then get some of that 1 coat table top 2 part Epoxy from your favorite Hobby Shop. It's sold by the brand name of: Enviro-Tex Lite, a pour on Epoxy coating that is thick, very durable and crystal clear. Most all 2 part Epoxy finishes have to be used at a room temp. of 70 degrees or higher and they have to be mixed exactly to instructions. Not mixing completely will cause it not to dry correctly. After the Enviro-Lite dries and cures (approx. 72 hrs.) it can be sanded level with 400, 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sand papers then polished to a high gloss with a fine polishing compound. I have used this method for years. You will not be disappointed.
I have used super glue before and it worked out great. As noted it is was quite a bit brighter, nothing a little twist of the tone knob can't fix. It added a lot definition in the mwah that we all love.
Posted here on the BABP:
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Posted here on the BABP:
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+1 on that one. After a bad experience with epoxy (it didn't adhere to the rosewood board, even though i prepped it right, after a week shards of it were coming off) I, too, came to the conclusion that CA glue is better. Not only is it easier to apply, use and it's pretty much foolproof, you can't screw it up, the sound was also better than epoxy, which took away a lot of the personality of the instrument. CA treated fretboards to me have a lot of the bare wood sound, but a tad brighter, and if you don't buff them, just sand any high spots or ridges off, the feel is also nicer, more natural, somewhat like bare wood.
I hope you used a radiused sanding block with all that sanding to keep the board true. I had to remove a botched coat once (although it was dry). As long as you use coarse grain sandpaper and switch out the sheets every time it gums up, it really doesn't take that long.
I've done four epoxy jobs now. The secret IMHO is to do small coats each time. Thicker coats dry more unevenly and slowly. Mix thoroughly and gently to avoid bubbles. I've also begun mixing in a little denatured alcohol with the epoxy. I use two parts expoy, one part hardner, and one part denatured alcohol. The alcohol evaporates and doesn't seem to affect the epoxy setting up. It does seem to help with the bubbles issue. Any bubbles that form are easily "blown" out. I've stuck to using mirror coat. Never had any problems with getting the mixture of epoxy to hardner. Either I've been careful, lucky, or mirror coat is more forgiving.
I actually prefer the livelier response of epoxy to rosewood. If it is too clanky, I'll either roll of the tone knob or just let the strings get a little older and gunkier. Then again, that's with rounds. I dug the flats on bare wood sound for a while, but rapidly started missing the clarity and articulation of rounds. Back to rounds again. If you want to solely use flats, then epoxy isn't needed for protecting the board.
I've done four epoxy jobs now. The secret IMHO is to do small coats each time. Thicker coats dry more unevenly and slowly. Mix thoroughly and gently to avoid bubbles. I've also begun mixing in a little denatured alcohol with the epoxy. I use two parts expoy, one part hardner, and one part denatured alcohol. The alcohol evaporates and doesn't seem to affect the epoxy setting up. It does seem to help with the bubbles issue. Any bubbles that form are easily "blown" out. I've stuck to using mirror coat. Never had any problems with getting the mixture of epoxy to hardner. Either I've been careful, lucky, or mirror coat is more forgiving.
I actually prefer the livelier response of epoxy to rosewood. If it is too clanky, I'll either roll of the tone knob or just let the strings get a little older and gunkier. Then again, that's with rounds. I dug the flats on bare wood sound for a while, but rapidly started missing the clarity and articulation of rounds. Back to rounds again. If you want to solely use flats, then epoxy isn't needed for protecting the board.
Wow, thanks for all the information on epoxying, good to see so many experienced veterans willing to share their knowledge.
I've decided against epoxying though. I'm using flats on this bass, and TBers and research have told me that epoxying the surface is unneccesary.
I strung it up and got a basic setup down, and it plays so sweet. Definitely a fretless sound, deep low end and mwah-ey highs. I'll post pictures when I get home from work and maybe a video.
Rather than using solvents to get the epoxy off, I sanded it hard with 120 grit paper. Didnt take more than 20 minutes, but my wrist and arm ached when I had finally gotten it all off. I finish sanded it with 400 grit paper, got it very nice and smooth, cleaned all the dust off and stained it black. Today I strung it and played it and love it.
I've decided against epoxying though. I'm using flats on this bass, and TBers and research have told me that epoxying the surface is unneccesary.
I strung it up and got a basic setup down, and it plays so sweet. Definitely a fretless sound, deep low end and mwah-ey highs. I'll post pictures when I get home from work and maybe a video.
Rather than using solvents to get the epoxy off, I sanded it hard with 120 grit paper. Didnt take more than 20 minutes, but my wrist and arm ached when I had finally gotten it all off. I finish sanded it with 400 grit paper, got it very nice and smooth, cleaned all the dust off and stained it black. Today I strung it and played it and love it.
