Is there a 3-way switch available anywhere that would replace one of the knobs?
So the controls would be Master volume, 3-way knob switch, tone.
So the controls would be Master volume, 3-way knob switch, tone.
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Favorite PJ bass wiring
- Thread starter snorn
- Start date
I saw one on e-bay once...so it does exist
personally I want to convert my mia P/J to master vol / J on/off switch / passive tone
Gibson style toggle switch.
Failing that, DPDT On/On/On mini switch with a large washer.
Failing that, a 3 position rotary switch.
Nicely timed thread.
Im about to get a Nordy NP5 split coil put in my Lakland DJ5 Jazz at the neck position. Iw uodl be happy to just use this pup as im looking for a P tone, not a PJ (ive not idea how that sounds yet)
I've found that every P bass ive played sounded different so i wasnt going to worry too much about using VVT as im not after a particular P tone, just to get more thump and middy but i keep hearing about having a 3 way switch put in.
Does it really make that much difference over just having the bridge pup off?
Im about to get a Nordy NP5 split coil put in my Lakland DJ5 Jazz at the neck position. Iw uodl be happy to just use this pup as im looking for a P tone, not a PJ (ive not idea how that sounds yet)
I've found that every P bass ive played sounded different so i wasnt going to worry too much about using VVT as im not after a particular P tone, just to get more thump and middy but i keep hearing about having a 3 way switch put in.
Does it really make that much difference over just having the bridge pup off?
I've got a question for those that have a volume/tone volume/tone wiring.
How did you wire that? If your using the normal wiring method for a tone pot the two pots would interact with each other, the capacitance would add up. Do you use a buffering amp?
How did you wire that? If your using the normal wiring method for a tone pot the two pots would interact with each other, the capacitance would add up. Do you use a buffering amp?
Nothing you can fix with 500 k pots. A 3 way switch is not necessary to preserve the p-tone. The only difference with 500 k pots is a slightly faster roll off of the volume.
I myself have a 500k vol/vol wiring into a bartolini buffering pre-amp, without any tone controls. I hardly ever miss the tone controls, I prefer the EQ on my amp or fishman pre-amp.
Thanks for the reply.
I dont know whats in the DJ5 already but i do like how they work so unless its recommended to change them ill keep them as they are.
Some people have refereed to the tone as getting a bit darker when not using a switch, not sure how that will sound but as i haven't even heard a NP5 yet im sure it wont make a difference to me. As long as the thump is there ill be happy.
I dont know whats in the DJ5 already but i do like how they work so unless its recommended to change them ill keep them as they are.
Some people have refereed to the tone as getting a bit darker when not using a switch, not sure how that will sound but as i haven't even heard a NP5 yet im sure it wont make a difference to me. As long as the thump is there ill be happy.
It' ll sound just like having the volume on your P at about 70 to 80%. If you turn up the volume of the amp to match the volume of the bass with the volume at 100%, you'll hear the tone is different.
I' myself hardly notice the faster roll off of a 500 k-pot.
I' myself hardly notice the faster roll off of a 500 k-pot.
Thanks again.
Im being a bit thick here but are you saying if i do put the switch in and solo the P then i can run it at 100% volume without it changing?
This is all new to me so maybe im missing something.
Im being a bit thick here but are you saying if i do put the switch in and solo the P then i can run it at 100% volume without it changing?
This is all new to me so maybe im missing something.
The Gibson RD Artist has controls something like the Les Paul guitar... two pickups, two volumes, two tones, and a 3-way toggle (bridge/both/neck). Then the second 3-way switch controls the Moog circuitry. It makes the bass really flexible, but kind of a PITA to change on the fly til you get used to it.
Sorry to drag this thread up again.
I have all the bits ready to get my NP5 put in my DJ5 but still cant decide what type of wiring to go for.
Seeing as im really in to getting a P tone rather than a PJ tone (what ever that is) how does putting a push/pull volume pot on the bridge pup sound to you experts? I was thinking in to cut the pup as i dont expect to use it much and out to have both on.
I would never use just the bridge pup.
Thanks for any advice.
I have all the bits ready to get my NP5 put in my DJ5 but still cant decide what type of wiring to go for.
Seeing as im really in to getting a P tone rather than a PJ tone (what ever that is) how does putting a push/pull volume pot on the bridge pup sound to you experts? I was thinking in to cut the pup as i dont expect to use it much and out to have both on.
I would never use just the bridge pup.
Thanks for any advice.
go with the 4-pos rotary
P, P/J series, P/J parallel, J...
There are times when you will want your J...P/J in series is a FAT tone ...P/J parallel is a great tone when you need to dial in a tad bit of definition into your P bass...and of course, straight-P
then put a varitone in for your tone control (forget tone pots, use a varitone...thank me later)
I am very interested (for another project) in such a switch - any suppliers ?
Any help is much appreciated
Thanks but thats way more than i need.
All i want is a P bass tone. Maybe ill mix in the Jazz pup, maybe i will like it but all im after at the moment is getting as close to a P as i can.
Been gigging for a few years with a P and its the tone i need/want back. I dont even use the tone knob much on my P5.
I'm interested in this too...I just found a 4-pos rotary switch at Allparts for $15.
I'd like to see a diagram first to be sure that it can be done. I don't want to end up with a 4-pos switch where only 3 work.
I'd like to see a diagram first to be sure that it can be done. I don't want to end up with a 4-pos switch where only 3 work.
I am very interested (for another project) in such a switch - any suppliers ?
Any help is much appreciated
Hi all. I have just brought a Fender P-Bass Lyte (Which is active). I vote V/B/T, but mine is V/B/Bass/Treble. As i've just recently brought it i've been reading up on it and apparently the electronics can go faulty and eat 9v batteries every 4 days, which ain't good. This is my first active bass and i've always played passive but i'm quite liking it at the moment.
Any how, i've come across this thread and wanted too get ideas incase my active system does 'Die' and it needs replacing or fixing.
Any ideas on the approach i should go for?? I wanted too add V/T/V/T on my jazz, but was told on here that its impossible as each tone pot will affect the whole signal? I really like the idea of running the P pup tone closed and J pup open for the bite/harmonics. Is the any way too wire a cap in series from the P pup, which can fully roll the treble off without a pot?? Just an idea.
Also, what sort of sound can you expect by adding a S/P switch in? Ofcourse with a jazz you can make it sound more like a P-bass. What of a PJ?
Cheers
Any how, i've come across this thread and wanted too get ideas incase my active system does 'Die' and it needs replacing or fixing.
Any ideas on the approach i should go for?? I wanted too add V/T/V/T on my jazz, but was told on here that its impossible as each tone pot will affect the whole signal? I really like the idea of running the P pup tone closed and J pup open for the bite/harmonics. Is the any way too wire a cap in series from the P pup, which can fully roll the treble off without a pot?? Just an idea.
Also, what sort of sound can you expect by adding a S/P switch in? Ofcourse with a jazz you can make it sound more like a P-bass. What of a PJ?
Cheers
I am also interested in this 4-position rotary wiring. Does anyone know how to do it by chance?
Thanks!
The way that my Ibanez Roadster is wired (V/T V/T plus 3-way switch: neck/both/bridge) you do get a 'pure' P tone with the switch up, as far as I can tell. With the switch in the middle position there is some amount of one tone pot affecting both pickups, but it's still possible to get useable and decent tone imo. I rarely use the bridge position of the 3-way, so usually I'll balance the 2 pickups by having the P (neck) controls at V-5 and T-3, and then the J (bridge) V-10 and T-7 or so; then by going from neck to both on the 3-way I can toggle a thumpy P and more of a hybrid P/J with a bit of treble rolled off. If I bring the J tone back up to 10 & the 3-way is in the middle I get a more trebly attack, perfect for slap.
Of course with the 3-way on P only and neck volume cranked you do get a full-on P tone that can be tweaked with the tone pot to your liking. I know this setup might not be for everyone but I find it to be pretty versatile.
