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Double Bass Fdeck HPF Preamp review

Red Planet

Red Planet

Inactive
May 29, 2005
6,487
2,152
Atlanta
Disclosures
I'm cranky in my old age.
#1
I purchased one of these a couple months back IIRC and thought I would mention my results with this little darling.

Bass - 1984 Emanuel Wilfer Hybrid

Pickup - Gage Realist

Amp - Genz Benz Shuttle 9.0

Cab - SWR 8 ohm Golight 2x10

PA for acoustic gigs - Soundcraft Gig Rac 300

Prior to purchasing the Fdeck I was not entirely convinced that a device this simple could solve my issues of amplifying my UB in a loud band setting and especially while Doubling also.

Shortly after ordering the Fdeck Pre it showed up in a timely fashion packaged very well for shipping. I must say including the shipping cost this Pre is an excellent value. You get a lot for not much money.

Upon hooking it up for the first time, I immediately knew this thing could get the job done. I was amazed at how simple yet how well it solved a number of issues for me.

My problems (prior to getting the Fdeck) were similar to many others I'm sure. I had to re EQ drastically moving from Electric Bass to Upright Bass and still was not satisfied with the results. Because of the EQ issue feedback was greatly increased exponentially along with some other issues I had with feedback. I thought the impedance was not that big a deal until I tried using my UB into a small Acoustic Gigging PA instead of my amp (eye opener). Also for Doubling there was too much of a difference in input levels to my amp causing yet another adjustment on the fly.

How the Fdeck solved all these issues for me.


EQ - The simple High Pass Filter in the Fdeck immediately allowed me to do the tone shaping I needed on my UB separate from my EB. A gigantic plus for Doubling Gigs!

Also while I'm on the HPF, it also allows my UB's tone to be taylored to the room I'm in. The smaller the room I'm in, the less low end I need to get the UB across. Not only size but some rooms/stages can cause my UB to be really boomy, others require more bottom. This can be fixed on the spot at my UB as I velcroed the Fdeck to my tailpiece.

My Genz Benz Shuttle 9.0 seems to do better than most coupling to a piezo pickup so impedance was not a big deal going to the amp. When I attempted to go straight into our small PA head is where I saw the effectiveness of the preamp/impedance of the Fdeck. Direct into the board I would get zero sound from my Realist. Plug in the Fdeck and the signal is plenty hot.

Levels - The increase in gain using the Fdeck brought the output of my UB up even with the output level on my Passive EB. This allows me to swap without volume adjustments (nice).

I found the Fdeck output to be very clean sounding and free of any noise.

So far I have yet to need to flip the Phase/Polarity switch but I'm sure I'll run across a need for it at some point.

The only issue I have had so far is mostly from the Doubling and combination of all the gear. I do have to cut 150 hz a little while playing UB which does not sound as good as flat with my EB but this is less the FDECK and more trying to serve two masters.

All in all I am one happy camper since acquiring the Fdeck Pre. Though it is simple, it goes directly to the root of UB amplification problems and solves them.

Thank you Francis!
 
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#3
I have been a happy user of the Fdeck Pre for a couple years now, and never gig without it.

Red Planet is right about the HPF being the real gem of this piece (along with the super clean tone, phase switch, and impedance). All rooms really are different in boomyness and the feedback that ensues due to that boom. All you need is to roll back the HPF until your desired amount of bottom is there.

Rolling off the sub-bass also goes along way to create a more natural representation of the acoustic sound of your bass when using a piezo pickup.

The HPF Pre's clear tone doesn't "get in the way" of your prefered amps tone either. I use mine with GK amplifiers and am very happy with the natural sounding tone I get.
 
#4
Yeah, I've had it for a few weeks, and love it.

Although, I was about to start a test run with it a couple days ago before a gig, and I dropped it about 9 inches from my amp head, and then couldn't get a signal out of it.

I was panicking, and trying to see if I could get a good enough signal with the piezo pickup direct to the amp (it was audible, but pretty muddy/scratchy/ugly). Fortunately, my smart wife reminded me to check the battery. It was dead...

Either leaving it connected to the pickup and amp head (with the amp turned off), somehow drained the battery, or a fluke happened. So now it gets detached every time, and I have a spare battery.
 
#6
bolo said:
I'm guessing that if a cable is plugged in to the input of the HPF-Pre, it uses the battery. Just unplug the cable from the p/u to the pre when not in use.
Click to expand...

Actually, it's the presence of a connection to the output that connects the battery to the circuit. I leave it unplugged when it's not in use. The "Series 2" fdeck device has a low-battery indicator.
 
#7
Quote:Originally Posted by Chris Fitzgerald
Just found this thread, and have a couple of questions. I'm using the fdeck pre in the FX loop of my Phil Jones Flightcase 300 amp (it's velcroed to the back of the amp so that the knob is accessible from the top), and it works beautifully. Recently, I'd noticed the volume of the amp starting to fall off, and was wondering if there was something wrong with the amp. Like a dumb hillwilliam from KY, I never thought that the answer might be the battery in the fdeck pre, since the HPF still worked perfectly even as the volume was falling off. After last night's gig, the sound was getting really weird, so (in spite of the fact that I'm a Kentuckian) I got smart and checked the battery anyway. It was dead as a post.

My questions:

1) Which plug on the pre activates the battery - input, or output? I'm guessing input, but once I find out for sure I can know to keep the other one connected at all times.

2) As the battery starts to go, what are the likely sonic repercussions? I'm going to be carrying spare batteries from now on, but if I knew what to listen for, it would be easier to know when to change the battery.

3) Is there an easy way to test 9v batteries, and if so, at what level should one be replaced before a gig in order to keep the sound intact?

Response from Fdeck:

1.The output activates the battery.

2. As the battery goes down, I would expect noticeable harmonic distortion.

3. You can get a cheap digital voltmeter at a place like Home Depot. In fact, you could drill a couple tiny holes in the battery cover to let you insert the probes. You should be able to let batteries go down to at least 8.5 Volts. If you pickup doesn't have a particularly "hot" output, you may be able to go lower.
__________________
 
#10
clink said:
Steve, correcting you is my purpose in life.:D

Red, I'm very glad you have found your solution. The little box does solve a lot of problems.
Click to expand...

I found this little baby in another thread during the holidays last christmas. It's a little pricey, but it lets you test voltages without, I repeat, without removing the battery, providing you remember to do it before you play the gig.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Alternatively, you could just get one of the newer HPF pre amps with that little battery light, provided you don't ignore the light like I did on the Headway last week at jazz camp, when I couldn't figure out why the pickup and mic weren't working.
:eek:

Ric
 
#12
Ric Vice said:
I found this little baby in another thread during the holidays last christmas. It's a little pricey, but it lets you test voltages without, I repeat, without removing the battery, providing you remember to do it before you play the gig.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Alternatively, you could just get one of the newer HPF pre amps with that little battery light, provided you don't ignore the light like I did on the Headway last week at jazz camp, when I couldn't figure out why the pickup and mic weren't working.
:eek:

Ric
Click to expand...

I know a guy that sells these ;););)
 
#13
I have a $700.00 Fluke Battery Tester :p:D

For me it's a no brainer on why the output jack turns on the battery. You can leave the Pickup plugged in and unplug your cable to amp. This works especially well for me since I velcroed my Fdeck to my tailpiece.

I left my cord plugged in and killed the first battery I put in it. :D
 
#17
Ric Vice said:
Alternatively, you could just get one of the newer HPF pre amps with that little battery light, provided you don't ignore the light like I did on the Headway last week at jazz camp, when I couldn't figure out why the pickup and mic weren't working.
:eek:

Ric
Click to expand...

Jazz camp? Please tell me you weren't at the Aebersold camp and I didn't know it! If you were, we should have hung out had a bass nerd session.
 
#19
It is much easier on this side of the fence to see why/how the Fdeck goes to the heart of amplifying UB problems and solves them.

I was struggling a bit trying to get my UB up to the volume of our stinking bunch of loud wankers. Now I'm able to compete with these boys. :D
 
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#20
Chris Fitzgerald said:
Jazz camp? Please tell me you weren't at the Aebersold camp and I didn't know it! If you were, we should have hung out had a bass nerd session.
Click to expand...

Chris,
Nope, I was teaching with Paul Demarnis at the Webster University Jazz Camp here in St. Louis, Maybe I'll make it to one of Jamie's camps in the future now that I'm semi-retired from 35 years in the public schools. If I do I'll be sure and let you know. It would be nice to hang, cause I'm a hooser and you're from Kentucky. Plus you are so freekin' smart.

Ric:p
 

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