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fEARful part nine (9)

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Don't start this debate here. You'll lose.

It's not worth arguing about. If you can run the software and stuff you want to run, more power to you. On TalkBass I do see a lot of bemoaning of the fact that box sim programs don't seem to be widely available on the Mac. But balance that with all the bemoaning from people that have Windows and can't actually use their box sim programs well enough to design anything... Which of course points to being able to read documentation and spending more than ten minutes tweaking stuff.

Maybe the Mac has better help docs that infuse the user with extra RTFM vitality points ; }

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Ah, jeez, Wayne. Er, William. Uh, Warren? <scratch head> - uh, anyway, I'd like to explore this further. Does the operating system and hardware predispose it's preferred user with the godlike powers - powers to be able to read and somewhat understand documentation all the way to page 5?

If so, I want on that ride.

Because it took me maybe even more than an hour to work some parts of the software and actually grok it. If I could just twink around for 10 minutes after downloading, and then ask someone on talkbass what to do next to make the thing build perfect speaker cabs for me - and then earn 6 figures a year using the free or cheap software... well, that would be ever so fine.

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Greenboy brings up an extremely salient point about design software; truly understanding the software and more importantly the principles it is mathmatically based are are not trivial exercises.

Design tools by nature are flawed, or at least compromised. The magic happens when one has built enough experience to know how to tweek the model to fit their intentions. That, and have enough experience to know what the heck their intentions are.

One can get there - but it ain't easy or fast.
 
I'm starting my X-over tonight for my 12/6. I have it mapped out before the soldering but I'm having a little trouble understanding how to wire in the DPDT switch. Does anyone have any pictures detailing this? Any help would be awesome. Thanks in advance.
 
I'm at the point where the next step is to line the interior and then give the baffle a home. Gave the thing the thwack test. I'm wondering if adding one more brace on what really is the bottom would be of any benefit?

Interlaken,

I haven't really noticed a need, but partly it's because that panel's almost always out of sight, out of mind. I'll try an check it tomorrow when I'm playing with my cab set up like a tilt-back monitor.

But if you don't mind the few extra ounces a 1.25" stick (or two, done like a notched cross) would never hurt anything. Doesn't even need to come all the way to panels, and make sure it's shaved to miss the woofer if it does.
 
I'm starting my X-over tonight for my 12/6. I have it mapped out before the soldering but I'm having a little trouble understanding how to wire in the DPDT switch. Does anyone have any pictures detailing this? Any help would be awesome. Thanks in advance.

My DPDT toggle works like this:

3 ø ø 6
2 ø ø 5
1 ø ø 4

1 = Positive in to L-Pad
2 = Positive from high pass
3 = Jumper across to 6
4 = Positive out from L-Pad
5 = Positive to 6", (reversed polarity, actually hooks to negative at speaker)
6 = Jumper across to 3

If you visualize the 2 and 5 as the 'stationary' poles and the pivot up or down connecting them (2-1:5-4) or (2-3:5-6). I don't know what kind of switch you have or how its laid out.
 
Thanks!

I'll go ahead and cobble everything together and see what fits. The thwack test was very instructional. Your bracing works!

I am curious to hear if you find any weirdness in your cab.

I'm also going to rout in one of Leland's tilt back leg things. That may well terminate any funny business from the bottom.

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Oh yeah, one more thing for any of the builders.

The Wiki is really easy to compose in. Anyone who is clever enough to saw a sheet of plywood and goo it together into into a cabinet that doesn't whistle is capable of explaining to the world how you did it.

Do it!
 
I've always said that there's at least a few here that would help one get started in the wiki too. But actually, once I put up personal pages for people it's probably enough to get past the hurdles. Because it gives one the idea that they can't bring all of talkbass down by typing something wrong on the main page ; }

Best to all who've shared so far! Keep on!
 
Well, here is my first crossover. I'll solder it up in the morning. Also, keep in mind I ordered my resistors before GB changed the Wiki and that's why there is more. I just hope I did it right.

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greenboy said:
Calling BurningSkies - resident lookeratcrossoverwiring and actually sussing it spotter of Rightness. Or Wrongness. All hail, Amen.

I can trace my own work but often other peoples' is much like a doctor's handwriting, which I never could forge that well ; }

Man I sure hope it's right because if I have to redo it I'm going to scream! Especially since I'll have to redo two of them.
 
Your wife is gonna miss the ironing board ; }

As far as I can trace from input it looks right, I think. (When it gets finished it could use a little insurance here and there.) But when I get to where it returns in to the terminal block it should be checked real well because I can't with 100% certainty tell what is going where there.
 
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