Fender 40 - 115 5-String Bass Set

[Christcr]

Have any of you tried the Fender 5-string bass set that is 40 - 115?

I currently used DR 40 - 120. They are fine, but I'm curious about the 115 low B.

I have used 130... did not like it at all. Switched to 125... okay, but still not what I wanted in feel or sound. The 120 I use now sounds MUCH better (clarity-wise) than the thicker gauges and the feel is much better. So I think I will try that Fender set because so far it has been, the lighter, the clearer for me and better feeling. Of course, I can't go too light without getting really floppy. But I'm not there yet and wondering where the limit is for a low B. I definitely prefer soft low-tension strings.

For reference, I'm more of a 4 string player with a light touch. I use either 35 - 95 or 40 - 100 strings (I've even used 30 - 90 strings in the past) on all my 4-string basses except one flatwound strung bass with 40 - 95 EB cobalt flats.

 

[onda'bass]

I have wondered the same, but a recent test for on a .120 was not so good to me. I like a .125 all around.

 

[fig]

Have any of you tried the Fender 5-string bass set that is 40 - 115?

I have that set on one of my basses. You won't have worries about the B string.

Is your bass 34 inch scale?

If so, I learned in the forum awhile back that some 34 inchers can handle fatter B strings and some basses can't. Just like my two 34 inchers LOL. One handles a .130 B (D'Addario) just fine. Solid, in-tune notes well beyond the 12th fret.

However, the other bass can't handle a B fatter than a .125. The larger B's can't give me clear, distinct, in-tune notes at about the 6th or 7th fret and up, so I avoided playing there. This has happened on previous 34 inch 5 stringers I've owned.

From that comment in the forum, I looked around for smaller B sets. I found the Fender Light strings at a good price. Nothing to lose, I ordered and installed 'em. The B worked perfectly. Solid notes, intonation, I could play past the 12th fret on the B string. A bit bassier than a fatter string (had to dial my high pass filter back a little bit). Not floppy, possibly due to the hex core.

On that bass, I swap between the roundwound Fender Lights and La Bella Low Tension Flats (.118 B string).

For folk passing thru, here's some string info:
Fender Lights - Part no. 7250-5L
Nickel plated steel
Roundwound
Hex core
040 .060 .080 .100 .115

Currently $23.09 at Strings and Beyond: Fender Super Bass 7250's Nickelplated Steel Roundwound Bass Guitar Strings 7250-5L 5-String Light 40-115

 

[Christcr]

I have that set on one of my basses. You won't have worries about the B string.

Is your bass 34 inch scale?

If so, I learned in the forum awhile back that some 34 inchers can handle fatter B strings and some basses can't. Just like my two 34 inchers LOL. One handles a .130 B (D'Addario) just fine. Solid, in-tune notes well beyond the 12th fret.

However, the other bass can't handle a B fatter than a .125. The larger B's can't give me clear, distinct, in-tune notes at about the 6th or 7th fret and up, so I avoided playing there. This has happened on previous 34 inch 5 stringers I've owned.

From that comment in the forum, I looked around for smaller B sets. I found the Fender Light strings at a good price. Nothing to lose, I ordered and installed 'em. The B worked perfectly. Solid notes, intonation, I could play past the 12th fret on the B string. A bit bassier than a fatter string (had to dial my high pass filter back a little bit). Not floppy, possibly due to the hex core.

On that bass, I swap between the roundwound Fender Lights and La Bella Low Tension Flats (.118 B string).

For folk passing thru, here's some string info:
Fender Lights - Part no. 7250-5L
Nickel plated steel
Roundwound
Hex core
040 .060 .080 .100 .115

Currently $23.09 at Strings and Beyond: Fender Super Bass 7250's Nickelplated Steel Roundwound Bass Guitar Strings 7250-5L 5-String Light 40-115

Yes, 34 inch scale. Thanks for that, it's what I was hoping to hear. I'll be ordering a set.

 

[michael_t]

I have used 130... did not like it at all. Switched to 125... okay, but still not what I wanted in feel or sound. The 120 I use now sounds MUCH better (clarity-wise) than the thicker gauges and the feel is much better. So I think I will try that Fender set because so far it has been, the lighter, the clearer for me and better feeling. Of course, I can't go too light without getting really floppy. But I'm not there yet and wondering where the limit is for a low B. I definitely prefer soft low-tension strings...

My one and only 5-string bass is the Yamaha TRBX505, which is 34" scale. It tends to be very fussy when it comes to the low B and I've spent a fair amount of time trying this and trying that. As far as non-tapered B's go, a .120 seemed to work better than anything heavier on this bass.

Then one day I came across with something that turned out to be a game changer, ie a low B with exposed core. All of a sudden, the low B on this bass opened right up with better note definition and nice even sustain.

Now I've settled on SIT Power Wound Nickel 40-60-80-100 with an exposed-core .125 as my #1 go-to for this particular bass.

 

[J Wilson]

Buy 'em and try 'em. Best way to find out if YOU like them. Sounds more like the gages you use(d) on your fours.

 

[Ggaa]

Daddario tapered nickels on my Corvettes 5ers.125 B, 130 C#. Both 34".

 

[Prodigus Filius]

What’s the winding length of this set? I’d need 37” minimum if I wanted to try them on my sole remaining fretted bass. I’ve never been into roundwounds, but for some peculiar reason I’ve been using nothing but lately.

 

[Ggaa]

Daddario tapered nickels on my Corvettes 5ers.125 B, 130 C#. Both 34".

130 A#....

 

[fig]

What’s the winding length of this set? I’d need 37” minimum if I wanted to try them on my sole remaining fretted bass. I’ve never been into roundwounds, but for some peculiar reason I’ve been using nothing but lately.

I don't know why I didn't put that spec in my earlier post. It's right here in notes. I'm gonna play the old man card right now LOL.

37.25 inch winding length. I just remeasured to make sure. That's between the string-side of the ball end the start of the taper. FWIW, there's no silk wraps on these strings.

For folk passing thru still learning this stuff, the Winding Length of a string is the measurement between the string side of the ball end and 1.) where the silk wrap starts, or 2.) where the taper starts on un-silk wrapped strings.

Ideally, you want the start of the taper or the start of the silk to sit between the nut and the tuning post when tuned to pitch.

To prevent accidentally buying the wrong Winding Length strings for your bass (been there, done that a few times LOL)...:

Measure the physical distance on bass between the string side of the ball end and where the string just clears the nut on the tuning post side (measurement A). Then from the back of the ball end to the middle of the tuning post closest to the nut (measurement B). Ideally, the winding length you need should be between A and B.

I just threw this pic together. Hope it helps.:

 

[Prodigus Filius]

I don't know why I didn't put that spec in my earlier post. It's right here in notes. I'm gonna play the old man card right now LOL.

37.25 inch winding length. I just remeasured to make sure. That's between the string-side of the ball end the start of the taper. FWIW, there's no silk wraps on these strings.

For folk passing thru still learning this stuff, the Winding Length of a string is the measurement between the string side of the ball end and 1.) where the silk wrap starts, or 2.) where the taper starts on un-silk wrapped strings.

Ideally, you want the start of the taper or the start of the silk to sit between the nut and the tuning post when tuned to pitch.

To prevent accidentally buying the wrong Winding Length strings for your bass (been there, done that a few times LOL)...:

Measure the physical distance on bass between the string side of the ball end and where the string just clears the nut on the tuning post side (measurement A). Then from the back of the ball end to the middle of the tuning post closest to the nut (measurement B). Ideally, the winding length you need should be between A and B.

I just threw this pic together. Hope it helps.:

View attachment 7383891

Thanks for info on the WL of the set. And a great explanation and graphic about winding length itself. It’s an aspect of string ‘lore’ that pops up a lot in the TB Strings section.

 

[maturanesa]

The B string is too floppy for me. It felt and sound like a detuned E string. But i like string to not move that much, it sounds more in tune. With a 115 B is hard to achieve that. Maybe its ok for someone else

 

[Christcr]

So I went ahead and put a set of the Fender 40-115 on my 5-string Jazz. Feel-wise the low B is a bit looser than is typical (obviously). That I do not mind because I play with a light touch anyway (like I said, I use either 35-95 or 40-100 strings on my 4s). So although it is slightly "floppier" than the 120 I had on there, no biggie.

As for the sound, at least for this bass, it pretty much cured the indistinct annoying muddiness that was there. Still has plenty of bottom end, but now it is not so woofy sounding. That's one thing I've been annoyed about with five strings for years--tubby low B. The Dingwall I briefly had was nice in that regard as well, but my tired, small old hands rebelled and I had to sell it. Plus it was IMPOSSIBLE to find light gauge strings for the Dingwall.

Anyway, the 5-string Jazz sounds WAY better now. Definitely acceptable. I may have to raise the action slightly, but then again maybe not. We'll see how it goes at next practice.

Also, I haven't used Fender brand strings in years. We'll see how long they stay snappy and crisp. As I recall, they tended to die fast years ago when I used them on occasion. Hopefully they have improved in that regard.

Ultimately, I'm finally happy that when I pluck the low B note... my ear can ACTUALLY distinguish that it is indeed a low B.