I know it’s most likely Indian rosewood, but here’s my ‘83 Fullerton, any info on if any came with old stock Brazilian?
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Fender Fullerton Reissue club
- Thread starter mrpackerguy
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Doesn't Brazilian rosewood have squiggly grain?Wow. That looks like a Brazilian slab board
... and they're back!
After seemingly disappearing overnight several years ago, the Fender Reissue Shop is back.
fenderreissue.com
No idea who's behind it but there's some useful info on that site. A lot of it is about Strats and Teles but some specs and features also apply to basses.
After seemingly disappearing overnight several years ago, the Fender Reissue Shop is back.
Fender Stratocaster - American Vi… | The Fender Reissue Shop
2013 Fender Masterbuilt Eric Clapton Stratocaster Masterbuilt by Todd Krause. This is the exact same guitar that...
No idea who's behind it but there's some useful info on that site. A lot of it is about Strats and Teles but some specs and features also apply to basses.
I recently bought a '54 precision AVRI here in Germany, and I have some questions:
The Nitro lacker has some chips - I guess this can't be fixed, or do you have any advice?
The pickup manteling is somehow broken, and I can see the copper wiring. I think this should be fixed to protect the wiring. How can I do this (not using duck tape)?
Thanks for your thoughts
The Nitro lacker has some chips - I guess this can't be fixed, or do you have any advice?
The pickup manteling is somehow broken, and I can see the copper wiring. I think this should be fixed to protect the wiring. How can I do this (not using duck tape)?
Thanks for your thoughts
I wouldn't bother trying to fix nitro lacquer chips. While lacquer paint can be repaired because new paint will melt into the old, this type of finish damages and chips very easy, you'll just be chasing chips forever.
I might be wrong, but to my eyes it appears the areas you’re referring to were caused by someone resting their thumb.
I’ve refinished dozens upon dozens of instruments so I’m comfortable sorting out issues such as the one on your bass. If you aren’t sure about your skills I’d suggest you take the bass to a reputable luthier. He/she should be able to clear up the area without much trouble.
If you want to try fixing it yourself then you’ll need to take your time and be very careful. Mike is 100% spot on regarding the way nitrocellulose melts into itself. The issue you’ll find is color matching. If you get it wrong you’ll have an unsightly splotch. Although the nitro is cheap enough, color dyes are expensive. You’ll need a few to mix and match.
The other issue you might find is swelling of the wood. Perspiration and humidity can cause raw wood to rise and pucker up. The area around the pickup may be okay, but I’d be concerned about the screw hole. If the wood has risen up you’ll have a difficult time sanding/polishing the nitro smooth.
There is a luthier forum within TalkBass. The people there are extremely knowledgeable, helpful, and are always willing to help those who need assistance.
I’ve refinished dozens upon dozens of instruments so I’m comfortable sorting out issues such as the one on your bass. If you aren’t sure about your skills I’d suggest you take the bass to a reputable luthier. He/she should be able to clear up the area without much trouble.
If you want to try fixing it yourself then you’ll need to take your time and be very careful. Mike is 100% spot on regarding the way nitrocellulose melts into itself. The issue you’ll find is color matching. If you get it wrong you’ll have an unsightly splotch. Although the nitro is cheap enough, color dyes are expensive. You’ll need a few to mix and match.
The other issue you might find is swelling of the wood. Perspiration and humidity can cause raw wood to rise and pucker up. The area around the pickup may be okay, but I’d be concerned about the screw hole. If the wood has risen up you’ll have a difficult time sanding/polishing the nitro smooth.
There is a luthier forum within TalkBass. The people there are extremely knowledgeable, helpful, and are always willing to help those who need assistance.
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Let the nitro wear.
Play the pickup until it needs replacing, if it ever does. Then replace it then.
Bonsoir à tous !
On propose une basse de précision 1983 jaune monaco..
dans un état incroyable ..
quelqu'un aurait un avis ?
Merci d'avance.
On propose une basse de précision 1983 jaune monaco..
dans un état incroyable ..
quelqu'un aurait un avis ?
Merci d'avance.
Attachments
Désolé je me suis trompé !
je voulais un avis sur cette précision qu'on veut me vendre..
Pardon.
Yet another translation... 
Sorry, I made a mistake!
I actually wanted an opinion on this specific item they're trying to sell me...
My apologies.
Sorry, I made a mistake!
I actually wanted an opinion on this specific item they're trying to sell me...
My apologies.
Yet another translation...
Sorry, I made a mistake!
I actually wanted an opinion on this specific item they're trying to sell me...
My apologies.
La Precision Bass figurant sur vos photos est une Fender de 1983. Bien qu'elles ne soient pas aussi recherchées que les modèles AVRI, ces basses figurent parmi les toutes dernières à avoir été fabriquées dans l'usine d'origine de Fullerton, en Californie. Elles se caractérisent généralement par un manche large, mais peu épais... une particularité que certains jugent inconfortable, car les bords de la touche peuvent sembler coupants. Cela dit, les basses « USA » de cette époque offrent une très belle palette sonore et se situent au-dessus de la moyenne en termes de qualité et de fiabilité.
Bien cordialement.
Sorry, I made a mistake!
I actually wanted an opinion on this specific item they're trying to sell me...
My apologies.
La Precision Bass figurant sur vos photos est une Fender de 1983. Bien qu'elles ne soient pas aussi recherchées que les modèles AVRI, ces basses figurent parmi les toutes dernières à avoir été fabriquées dans l'usine d'origine de Fullerton, en Californie. Elles se caractérisent généralement par un manche large, mais peu épais... une particularité que certains jugent inconfortable, car les bords de la touche peuvent sembler coupants. Cela dit, les basses « USA » de cette époque offrent une très belle palette sonore et se situent au-dessus de la moyenne en termes de qualité et de fiabilité.
Bien cordialement.
Merci beaucoup pour votre retourEncore une autre traduction...
Désolé, j'ai fait une erreur !
En fait, je voulais un avis sur cet article précis qu'ils essaient de me vendre...
Je vous prie de m'excuser.
La Precision Bass figurant sur vos photos est une Fender de 1983. Bien qu'elles ne soient pas aussi recherchées que les modèles AVRI, ces basses figurent parmi les toutes dernières à avoir été fabriquées dans l'usine d'origine de Fullerton, en Californie. Elles se caractérisent généralement par un manche large, mais peu épais... une particularité que certains jugent inconfortables, car les bords de la touche peuvent sembler coupants. Cela dit, les basses « USA » de cette époque offrent une très belle palette sonore et se situent au-dessus de la moyenne en termes de qualité et de fiabilité.
Bien cordialement.
Cordialement.
Hi everyone,
Got my sunburst '62 precision AVRI brand new as an anniversary gift from my first wife in 1988. Been playing and gigging with it ever since. It still plays like butter! Although I've tried to be very careful with it, it has acquired some "road wear" over the years. I've always assumed it was either an '87, or '88 since it was brand new when I received it. After stumbling onto this thread, I'm now wondering if it could be an '83, which would put me in the club? The serial # is V009195. Next time I have it in the shop, I will have them check for date stamps. Is it possible this bass could have sat in a music store for 5 years?
Thanks for listening!
Ken
Got my sunburst '62 precision AVRI brand new as an anniversary gift from my first wife in 1988. Been playing and gigging with it ever since. It still plays like butter! Although I've tried to be very careful with it, it has acquired some "road wear" over the years. I've always assumed it was either an '87, or '88 since it was brand new when I received it. After stumbling onto this thread, I'm now wondering if it could be an '83, which would put me in the club? The serial # is V009195. Next time I have it in the shop, I will have them check for date stamps. Is it possible this bass could have sat in a music store for 5 years?
Thanks for listening!
Ken
Attachments
I have a question to you knowledgeable people in the Fullerton RI Club:
I enjoy playing my '54 AVRI a lot.
When rolling off the tone, I notice a drop in the volume and thinning of the sound.
Is this normal for the '54s AVRI?
I can only compare to my '51 OPD (JP) and my 2011 Precision USA Special, which push the bottom end when rolling off.
I enjoy playing my '54 AVRI a lot.
When rolling off the tone, I notice a drop in the volume and thinning of the sound.
Is this normal for the '54s AVRI?
I can only compare to my '51 OPD (JP) and my 2011 Precision USA Special, which push the bottom end when rolling off.
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Take a look at the info online about the '51-'54 single coil electronics. It was originally designed to do that. That little brown resistor on the tone pot can be removed and the volume and tone will react like your other basses.
Congratulations! You have a Fullerton Reissue based on the sunburst pattern on the back, the deep belly cut on the back, and the serial number. You can verify the other markings, stamps, and pot codes when you have it in the shop. Another unique thing to look for on the exterior is a slight, approximately 1/8" dimple in the black finish about a half inch from the back edge near the butt strap button.
Awesome!! All these years I knew I had a really great bass, but I had absolutely no idea it was a Fullerton. Thank you so much!
