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Fender Mustang Club

But it definitely has the shadow of the large 'BASS' that once was there, so I doubt that. My first reaction to this was, it's ugly. But it's growing on me, albeit only slightly. :) No hurry. And again, removing it may also leave a shadow at the end.

This was a score indeed. I found it on Craigslist and paid 36% of the lowest priced '66 Dakota Red Mustang Bass on Reverb. I thought that was a decent deal. I had no idea it was one built in the first few weeks of production, just that it was in original condition down to each screw. Sans the decal.
 
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But it definitely has the shadow of the large 'BASS' that once was there, so I doubt that. My first reaction to this was, it's ugly. But it's growing on me, albeit only slightly. :) No hurry. And again, removing it may also leave a shadow at the end.

This was a score indeed. I found it on Craigslist and paid 36% of the lowest priced '66 Dakota Red Mustang Bass on Reverb. I thought that was a decent deal. I had no idea it was one built in the first few weeks of production, just that it was in original condition down to each screw. Sans the decal.

I mean, if it's too ugly for you, I'll take it off your hands. :) I'll even offer 37% of the lowest priced '66. lol!
:)
 
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Fender was known to do it that way; at least on this '66 12 string!


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Well, you've convinced me not to touch it, at least for now.. But what would explain the BASS, it seems weird they would have that with the end decal that also says Electric Bass, and also without the Fender Mustang decal in front of it. And to confirm what was earlier said about Fender not overspraying decals until later, in the right exact light I can make out the oval outline of the BASS sticker sitting on top of the nitro and can't find any similar decal traces to the left where the Fender Mustang decal would have been or any signs of light shadowing. So either it was there and they did a better job of removing the Fender Mustang decal, and was also made of a material where light was not as blocked as on the BASS decal to not cause shadowing or it never there.
Who the heck knows.
 
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Birds, that's the production decal, but they didn't arrive before the first few weeks of production. For only that first several weeks, they pieced together a Fender Mustang decal with a cut-off BASS V decal, as shown above in that 2nd pic. The one you shared is the real production ones that arrived a few weeks in and they cutover to those. They have the small lines to the left of all the letters. The BASS V BASS had no small lines.
 
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A quick show and tell of my Mustangs. The American Performer has a WD pickguard, Labella flats and volume, blend, tone pots. On the Vintera II I’ve just removed the tug bar. Oh and Schaller strap lock buttons on both.
The Am Perf is lighter, but the Vintera has slight neck dive where as the Am Perf is well balanced. I like the rolled fret board and darker rosewood of the Am Perf and the satin finish of the neck.
They sound quite different of course with the flats and rounds, so cover all my needs.
 
Here is a picture of my son's 60s Vintera and my 1966 Mustang Bass. Both fine instruments. The main noticeable difference is the beefiness of the neck Leo designed for this bass. It must make up over half the weight and is almost 3mm thicker than the repro. For anyone interested, I thought I'd take some comparative measurements. Let me know if there are others desired.



1966 60s Vintera
Weight 7# 10 oz 8# 1 oz
Body Thickness 1.52" 1.65"
Headstock Thickness . 695" .56"
Neck Width @ Body 2.12" 2.17"
Neck Width @ Nut 1.58" 1.63"

417802017_3570718853150979_6606679720668313798_n.jpg
 
Is it just a slightly different design of bridge, but the saddles in the same place?
The actual body on modern mustangs is bigger. And the bridge is also further forward. Look closer and you also find a different horn shape. Depending on if you’re looking at Japanese or Mexican there’s even a slightly bigger difference as well. Vintage were smaller in size and the bridge closer to the edge. Don’t get me started on the difference in headstock shape and nut width….
 
Hello! After some dabbling with squier broncos a bit I set out to assemble a mustang that I like that wasn't offered. Nothing wild, just a vintera body and a player series neck. Awesome bass. But it leaves me with a question I'd assume best asked here:

Is there a replacement bridge with the ability to top load strings so actual short scale strings can be used???
20240128_081353.jpg
 
Hello! After some dabbling with squier broncos a bit I set out to assemble a mustang that I like that wasn't offered. Nothing wild, just a vintera body and a player series neck. Awesome bass. But it leaves me with a question I'd assume best asked here:

Is there a replacement bridge with the ability to top load strings so actual short scale strings can be used???
View attachment 5332569
I haven’t seen one. I have thought about drilling holes in the plate to enable top load but instead I just went with medium scale flats or long scale rounds (I haven’t had a problem breaking too-long rounds at the tuning post but flats that are too long can be problematic).