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Fender Mustang Club

I have a stock Mustang PJ and am interested in upgrading my pickups. However, I have no clue in how to go about deciding which Pups to go with. I would appreciate any guidance and advice on how to go about this decision.

Part of it depends on what you want to spend. I upgraded mine to Lindy Fralin PJ set, which is expensive (handwound pickups).

Plenty of lower priced options, and PJ is a common set. Seymour Duncan is a major manufacturer w good products.

There are lots of demo videos out there that can help you decide.

Also depends on what style you play and what shortcomings in current setup you’d like to overcome?
 
Part of it depends on what you want to spend. I upgraded mine to Lindy Fralin PJ set, which is expensive (handwound pickups).

Plenty of lower priced options, and PJ is a common set. Seymour Duncan is a major manufacturer w good products.

There are lots of demo videos out there that can help you decide.

Also depends on what style you play and what shortcomings in current setup you’d like to overcome?

I also upgraded to a Fralin PJ set. A bit pricey, but night & day difference between them and the stock ones, which were... ok.
 
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View attachment 3264168 View attachment 3264166 Consider me part of the club. Here is the bass I was teasing last week. A ‘66 Mustang belonging to Kevin Black of Margo Price’s band. Kevin handed over the keys last night after a killer show at World Cafe Live in Philadelphia. This bass has been all around the world many times over and will now reside in NJ. I just played it a few minutes ago having never had the opportunity to play a Mustang and I’m pretty blown away. I get it now!

That's an early one with the Mustang guitar decal and added BASS :thumbsup:
 
Oh? I’m not familiar with much early Mustang history. I’m all ears though!

They didn't have a dedicated decal for it yet so they pieced together the Mustang guitar "Mustang" and added BASS - a couple different fonts by the look of yours - the other (Bass) was more of a fat script style.
 
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Bought her new when the P/J first came out. She looked just like every other white Mustang P/J with a mint PG. I wanted to improve the look, but I was more interested in improving the feel (playability) and the sound.

Step One was to take her to a real pro for some advanced fret work, and he did make it play better...although it wasn't bad to start with. He also took care of the nasty fret edges, which kept cutting my hands. I do all of my own set-ups, but I don't file frets.

I had this feeling that there was MUCH more sound/tone hidden in this Mustang, so I started messing with things. First-off, I was sick and tired of that stinking switch! Always banging it into the wrong position, or hitting it just the right way, and the bass would go dead. On stage, that's just NOT acceptable. So, I vowed it was going to go away, and now it has.

I went with a stacked VTVT set-up, copied from the 62 Jazz, but with a few twists. I used real CTS pots, but went with 500k for all 4. I always liked less loading on the pick-ups. I also went with .047 for the P pickup tone, and a .027 for the bridge pup. The original, single 0.1 is WAY too much. I wanted isolation, so I used summing resistors from the two VT pairs. I went with 22k for these, and have decent isolation, but no real decrease in volume.

Fitting the full sized CTS concentric pots in the cavity was not a lot of fun. A very tight fit. I had to tuck the tone caps in behind the connections, and routed the wiring to the P pup between the pot and the control plate. Still a very tight fit. The control plate also needed to be drilled out a bit to allow the larger pot shafts to fit. While in there, I also installed a real Switchcraft jack.

I shortened the (way too long) wires, and gave them some tight twists to make it a little quieter.

She needed some dressing-up, so I used gold knobs, and gold screws, and a new high-mass gold bridge for some bling.

I didn't like the mint pickguard much. So, I had a new one made by Pickguard Planet in white pearl...without the stupid switch hole. It fit her very well. A little tight around the pickups, but the original was too.

If you've ever wondered if there's more tone hiding in that Mustang P/J of yours, let me tell you, there certainly IS! She also now also has tons of versatility. I can make this bass sound like nearly anything!

Here she is now in all her glory. May I have a number please?
In real close - control panel.jpg
In real close - control panel.jpg
Medium Wide shot.jpg
 

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Bought her new when the P/J first came out. She looked just like every other white Mustang P/J with a mint PG. I wanted to improve the look, but I was more interested in improving the feel (playability) and the sound.

Step One was to take her to a real pro for some advanced fret work, and he did make it play better...although it wasn't bad to start with. He also took care of the nasty fret edges, which kept cutting my hands. I do all of my own set-ups, but I don't file frets.

I had this feeling that there was MUCH more sound/tone hidden in this Mustang, so I started messing with things. First-off, I was sick and tired of that stinking switch! Always banging it into the wrong position, or hitting it just the right way, and the bass would go dead. On stage, that's just NOT acceptable. So, I vowed it was going to go away, and now it has.

I went with a stacked VTVT set-up, copied from the 62 Jazz, but with a few twists. I used real CTS pots, but went with 500k for all 4. I always liked less loading on the pick-ups. I also went with .047 for the P pickup tone, and a .027 for the bridge pup. The original, single 0.1 is WAY too much. I wanted isolation, so I used summing resistors from the two VT pairs. I went with 22k for these, and have decent isolation, but no real decrease in volume.

Fitting the full sized CTS concentric pots in the cavity was not a lot of fun. A very tight fit. I had to tuck the tone caps in behind the connections, and routed the wiring to the P pup between the pot and the control plate. Still a very tight fit. The control plate also needed to be drilled out a bit to allow the larger pot shafts to fit. While in there, I also installed a real Switchcraft jack.

I shortened the (way too long) wires, and gave them some tight twists to make it a little quieter.

She needed some dressing-up, so I used gold knobs, and gold screws, and a new high-mass gold bridge for some bling.

I didn't like the mint pickguard much. So, I had a new one made by Pickguard Planet in white pearl...without the stupid switch hole. It fit her very well. A little tight around the pickups, but the original was too.

If you've ever wondered if there's more tone hiding in that Mustang P/J of yours, let me tell you, there certainly IS! She also now also has tons of versatility. I can make this bass sound like nearly anything!

Here she is now in all her glory. May I have a number please?
View attachment 3275452 View attachment 3275452 View attachment 3275453
Oh, and I didn't like the way the J pup stuck out like a sore-thumb, so I put a white cover on that one. And yes, you can get the bridge pickup as loud as the P pup. At least, I can now. I ran it up till it's almost rattling against the strings, and it has plenty of output now. I can also mix the pickups with the VTVT set-up.
 
You can't go both gold and silver on same guitar.
I think the sound will be out of phase and slightly distorted with gold knobs and silver jack.
True...I was concerned about the Gold/Silver (chrome) distortion problem which has been well documented at TalkBass. I've actually found that the reflection of the Gold into the Silver (chrome) causes a musical, pleasant type of even-order distortion...At least to my old ears. But DON"T reflect Silver into Gold! That will cause odd, high-order, harmonics which will cause your bass to sound like it's solid-state, and might cause hearing damage and hypertension. (and if you believe this, I have a $64,000 P-bass to sell you!)
 
True...I was concerned about the Gold/Silver (chrome) distortion problem which has been well documented at TalkBass. I've actually found that the reflection of the Gold into the Silver (chrome) causes a musical, pleasant type of even-order distortion...At least to my old ears. But DON"T reflect Silver into Gold! That will cause odd, high-order, harmonics which will cause your bass to sound like it's solid-state, and might cause hearing damage and hypertension. (and if you believe this, I have a $64,000 P-bass to sell you!)
Tanx for offer but P-bass doesn't work for me. I find their symphonic cyber lush sound weird.
It's gotta be a Mustang
 
Aww, go on... You KNOW you want em! View attachment 3275756
You're correct...I really DO want some gold tuners. I'm not exactly sure which ones to get however. I'd love to get some lighter weight ones in the process, but I've seen so much discussion about replacement tuners that don't really fit, I'm hesitant.

Does anyone know of some lighter weight, gold tuners that fit the MIM Mustang P/J?
Dave O.
 
Bought her new when the P/J first came out. She looked just like every other white Mustang P/J with a mint PG. I wanted to improve the look, but I was more interested in improving the feel (playability) and the sound....
.....
Here she is now in all her glory. May I have a number please?

Wow! Nice job! And another switch-ditcher also! (though I think we are a minority)

Bienvenido a la remuda!
@daveobieone = #58
 
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Bought her new when the P/J first came out. She looked just like every other white Mustang P/J with a mint PG. I wanted to improve the look, but I was more interested in improving the feel (playability) and the sound.

Step One was to take her to a real pro for some advanced fret work, and he did make it play better...although it wasn't bad to start with. He also took care of the nasty fret edges, which kept cutting my hands. I do all of my own set-ups, but I don't file frets.

I had this feeling that there was MUCH more sound/tone hidden in this Mustang, so I started messing with things. First-off, I was sick and tired of that stinking switch! Always banging it into the wrong position, or hitting it just the right way, and the bass would go dead. On stage, that's just NOT acceptable. So, I vowed it was going to go away, and now it has.

I went with a stacked VTVT set-up, copied from the 62 Jazz, but with a few twists. I used real CTS pots, but went with 500k for all 4. I always liked less loading on the pick-ups. I also went with .047 for the P pickup tone, and a .027 for the bridge pup. The original, single 0.1 is WAY too much. I wanted isolation, so I used summing resistors from the two VT pairs. I went with 22k for these, and have decent isolation, but no real decrease in volume.

Fitting the full sized CTS concentric pots in the cavity was not a lot of fun. A very tight fit. I had to tuck the tone caps in behind the connections, and routed the wiring to the P pup between the pot and the control plate. Still a very tight fit. The control plate also needed to be drilled out a bit to allow the larger pot shafts to fit. While in there, I also installed a real Switchcraft jack.

I shortened the (way too long) wires, and gave them some tight twists to make it a little quieter.

She needed some dressing-up, so I used gold knobs, and gold screws, and a new high-mass gold bridge for some bling.

I didn't like the mint pickguard much. So, I had a new one made by Pickguard Planet in white pearl...without the stupid switch hole. It fit her very well. A little tight around the pickups, but the original was too.

If you've ever wondered if there's more tone hiding in that Mustang P/J of yours, let me tell you, there certainly IS! She also now also has tons of versatility. I can make this bass sound like nearly anything!

Here she is now in all her glory. May I have a number please?
View attachment 3275452 View attachment 3275452 View attachment 3275453

NOW HERE IS A MAN AFTER MY OWN HEART!!! Hated the "Mint" pickguard and replaced pups and the bridge. But my friend you had me at the pickguard. If you are a bit confused, a few pages back you can read my exact true feelings about what Fender considers "Mint". She sho is purdy. Nice job!
Bob
 
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Hi all,
Well 30 mins after my last "I'm Back" post I received a call that my brother in Texas had a heart attack and was medivac'd to the heart center in Dallas. So I was on the next plane to the town he lives in to help out. So that's why I haven't been on. But he survived and is doing well and once again I am back.
This time I took the PJ with me because he is a guitarist we played a bit together and a funny thing occurred. When I plugged in at his place there was a noticeable snap, crackle, and pop when pressure was applied between the switch and the volume control. Since I had the switch and pick ups replaced I of course thought it was the wiring connections. My brother heard me making an appointment with his local GC for repair and started hollering at me to stop ran in grabbed the PJ and started wiping my Pickguard Planet replacement and suddenly the snap crackle and pop was gone. All I could say to the repair tech was "Uh never mind" and hung up the phone. I was dumbfounded. The tech was talking rewiring shielding and possible parts with a minimum of 3 hours labor. My brother fixed it with a 4 cent dryer sheet. Then we sanded the back until the sheen was gone, shielded the back with copper, re-insulated all connections slapped her back together and now she is permanently shielded and dead silent! Notice though I did not say completely shielded. That's all we could do with the limited time I had left. All for the use of a 4 cent dryer sheet. He explained that the sheet trick would only last 3 to 5 days. But it sho made my bass smelt purdy!
Apparently this is a well known issue with new pickguards on new guitars. Not as much with the 3 ply but notorious with single ply.
So to make a long story longer as a thank you for me coming out and helping he took me over to a well known country musician/actors house and I got to plunk along with those 2. No it wasn't Honky Tonk Man but we did a little Guitars, Cadillacs.
Great to be home. Hope the sheet story can be of help.
Bob
 
Hey Bob...
Glad your bro is doing better!
Was the snap crackle and pop from static electricity then?
I got my PG from the same place, but I wiped it down real well with "Meguiars Instant Detailer" before I put it on. I haven't noticed a problem yet. I'll likely do the copper foil shield under the PG as well. Putting tight twists on all the wiring in mine did seem to help cut hum pick up. That and making the wiring a good bit shorter after removal of the PITA switch.
 
Hey Bob...
Glad your bro is doing better!
Was the snap crackle and pop from static electricity then?
I got my PG from the same place, but I wiped it down real well with "Meguiars Instant Detailer" before I put it on. I haven't noticed a problem yet. I'll likely do the copper foil shield under the PG as well. Putting tight twists on all the wiring in mine did seem to help cut hum pick up. That and making the wiring a good bit shorter after removal of the PITA switch.

Yes it was definitely static. There is a good 2 min video on YouTube called How To Reduce Pickguard Static by Billy Penn. I don't have any experience with the detailer so I really can't address that. Sorry. But my brother and that video were quite insistent on sanding the back of the until the sheen is gone. I used 500 grit and it took forever so I feel that a piece of 320 grit would do the trick quite well. As an aside I put my new pickguard on during the middle of summer and it just now started with the static and it is a 3 ply.
Finally I agree with you completely about that switch and I would join the ditch the switch club in a heart beat if I could. But my severe RA doesn't allow me to use the stacked knobs properly. I replaced the switch with a Switchcraft short stem that has more pull to it so when hit it doesn't move as easily as the stock one that IMHO was made from tooth picks and tin foil.
I think I addressed your questions. I would also like to say that there is a wealth of information and experience here should you need it. Hope this helps.
Bob