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Fender P bass Flatwounds through body or through bridge and scale length

Hi,
I have a Fender P bass with roundwounds. The roundwounds are installed through body. I like to change to flatwounds. Kinda difficult to obtain flatwounds for TB here in Norway, takes forever to get the order delivered. I noticted 4 holes in the back of the bridge, and I wondered if I could use through bridge flat wound strings as well on this bass? Then there is this matter of scale: The P-bass is a little shorter than my Yamaha BB1100S. So is the P-bass short, medium or longscale? (measurements i cm on the picture) Any suggestions?Thanks.
 

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You haven't said exactly what model of P-bass you have, but it's a pretty safe bet that it's long scale. There is absolutely no problem running flatwounds through the bridge, I have done so myself with LaBella, D'Addario and Fender flatwounds.
 
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Assuming you're measuring from the nut to the saddles, your P is a standard 34" scale. (87cm ~ 34")

I only use "string-through" when there is no other option - as in my 50s-style Ps with 2 saddle bridges, and my MusicMan Old Smoothie.
IMO; There is not appreciable benefit.

I'm not an expert on "later" model Fenders, but that looks to be the bridge used on American Deluxe, before the hi-mass version used on the Standard and (I believe) subsequent models.
 
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Assuming you're measuring from the nut to the saddles, your P is a standard 34" scale. (87cm ~ 34")

I only use "string-through" when there is no other option - as in my 50s-style Ps with 2 saddle bridges, and my MusicMan Old Smoothie.
IMO; There is not appreciable benefit.

I'm not an expert on "later" model Fenders, but that looks to be the bridge used on American Deluxe, before the hi-mass version used on the Standard and (I believe) subsequent models.
It is nut to the saddles allright. I checked the serialnumber z5142560: american made in 2005, not DeLuxe. Bought it from a friend, he didn't like the sound. And I agree, so therefore I will try flats. Plays like a dream, but sounds too bright.
 
The first issue:
Let us all repeat the mantra:
1) measure from the string anchor to the tuner side of the nut;
2) measure from the string anchor to the middle of the lowest string tuner;
3) purchase a set of strings that the winding/speaking length is between these two measurements.

If this is a "real" Fender P-bass, then yes, most conventional long-scale strings are designed to fit these basses.

Now, the second issue: I have played basses with flats both string-through-bridge plate and string-through-body. To my ears, there is absolutely no audible difference in tone, intonation, or sustain either way. The issue is that the flat ribbon winds can bind and deteriorate from the acute angle going over the bridge saddle through the body, especially on the E string. Therefore, unless you use something like a La Bella set specifically designed for through-body stringing, I would suggest to string a set of flats through the back of the bridge, not through the body.
 
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Hi,
I have a Fender P bass with roundwounds. The roundwounds are installed through body. I like to change to flatwounds. Kinda difficult to obtain flatwounds for TB here in Norway, takes forever to get the order delivered. I noticted 4 holes in the back of the bridge, and I wondered if I could use through bridge flat wound strings as well on this bass? Then there is this matter of scale: The P-bass is a little shorter than my Yamaha BB1100S. So is the P-bass short, medium or longscale? (measurements i cm on the picture) Any suggestions?Thanks.
I prefer to top mount flats. I just put LaBella Deep Talking flats on my P bass. The P Bass is 34" scale which is considered long scale

760FS 45-105​

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/de...p-talkin-bass-flatwound-bass-strings-standard
 
Thanks for all your helpfull replies. I decided to go for D'addario flats, medium. (D'Addario is the only brand available in the shop for my bass :laugh:) Any suggestions on lights or mediums? This with bending forces on the neck in mind.
ECB81 (45-65-80-100) = 188.75 lbs. in total tension.
ECB82 (50-70-85-105) = 224.01 lbs. in total tension.

The neck on your bass should be able to handle the tension as long as the truss rod is functioning properly. The real question is, can your fingers handle the stiffness of the Chromes, keeping in mind they're at the stiffer end of the spectrum for flats.
 
ECB81 (45-65-80-100) = 188.75 lbs. in total tension.
ECB82 (50-70-85-105) = 224.01 lbs. in total tension.

The neck on your bass should be able to handle the tension as long as the truss rod is functioning properly. The real question is, can your fingers handle the stiffness of the Chromes, keeping in mind they're at the stiffer end of the spectrum for flats.
This Fender P in its present config with roundwounds plays like a dream compared with my Yamaha BB1100S with relatively high action. It's the sound I don't like: i want more deep-end, and expect that with flats. However, I don't want to ruin the Precision by putting on flats. If you have other suggestions than D'Addario, please do :)
 
To OP
If the current strings are garden variety 45-105 nickel rounds than combined tension being exerted on the neck is around 175lbf

Putting on the D’addario Chromes ECB81 set adds only an additional 12/13lbf . Not worth getting any nickers in a twist about. Your bass will be fine and won’t even notice.
P.s The definitive method of measuring scale length of a bass is from the front face of the nut to the middle of the 12th fret and doubling it. This takes any saddle position involved in intonation out of the picture
 
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Thanks for all your helpfull replies. I decided to go for D'addario flats, medium. (D'Addario is the only brand available in the shop for my bass :laugh:) Any suggestions on lights or mediums? This with bending forces on the neck in mind.
If you must use D'A Chrome Flats, get the regular light gauge ECB81 45-100. That should be a standard set that the music store where you live with its limited stock should be carrying as a stock item. They will have decent tone and flexibility on the fingers. The D string may feel a little tight, but that is the traditional way of doing things. You might need a slight tweak to each screw of the pickup height for each string to assure even tonality string-to-string, as well as bridge saddle intonation screws check, since with different core diameter stretch intonation may be the slightest bit off compared to the last set you had on the bass. And to address your neck concern, these will be fine on the neck, possibly only needing a slight tweak, also compared to the set you had been playing.