I just purchased a beautiful Fender American Special P Bass which I love. However, after adjusting the action where I like it, I now find that the bridge saddle height adjustment screws stick up and are rather sharp. Since I sometimes rest my hand on the bridge I find this is a little annoying. Any suggestions? Anyone experience this? I was thinking of installing a bridge cover, but am not sure...
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Fender P Bass sharp bridge adjustment screws
- Thread starter RayFox
- Start date
I had a Carvin once with a Wilkinson bridge. Great bass, great bridge, painfully sharp edges. A few minutes with a small file fixed it right up.
This is at least the second thread this week about this. Maybe Fender needs to be emailed repeatedly until they address it.
I would think that, since I believe (I could be wrong, I suppose) most don't play bass with their hand resting on the bridge, most are like me, with the thumb resting on the pickup, this is a non-issue. Because of that, and it's such an easy fix, I doubt you will ever get any kind of substantive e-mail campaign going. It's not that big a deal.
Not sure about a cover since I have been informed that it would need to be grounded because it could cause hum and not sure if I want to get that involved with grounding it. In addition to playing finger style, I also play with my thumb and rest my hand on the bridge.
I use this trick that I got on the Nash guitars web site.
I use a thin guitar pick as a shim to slightly change the neck angle, then I can raise the saddles high enough so that the adjustment screws are flush with the top of the saddles while maintaining low string action.
You have to try different pick thicknesses till it is right for you.
This also increases the tension of the string on the bridge because the higher saddles change the angle from the ball end to the saddle itself.
I do not hear a noticable difference in sound or sustain and now I can comfortably rest my palm on the bridge for muting in certain of the songs we play.
I use a thin guitar pick as a shim to slightly change the neck angle, then I can raise the saddles high enough so that the adjustment screws are flush with the top of the saddles while maintaining low string action.
You have to try different pick thicknesses till it is right for you.
This also increases the tension of the string on the bridge because the higher saddles change the angle from the ball end to the saddle itself.
I do not hear a noticable difference in sound or sustain and now I can comfortably rest my palm on the bridge for muting in certain of the songs we play.
If it plays to your liking as is, those sharp edges can be remedied very quickly with a small metal file.
Whomever informed you that was wrong - Fender has been using ungrounded bridge covers for many years without any issues whatsoever...
- georgestrings
Yep. It only affects pick players. You are correct that an email campaign would be minuscule and pointless.
IME, there are atleast 3 different ways of handling this:
*I* would probably get shorter screws that sat lower into the saddles at my desired adjustment...
...or, you can smooth out(or shorten) the protruding screws so that they aren't a hazzard...
Last(and least preferrable, IMO), would be to shim the neck so that the screws will need to be threaded in deeper for proper saddle height...
- georgestrings
Yep. It only affects pick players. You are correct that an email campaign would be minuscule and pointless.
I can see it affecting other players, too - but since it's been an on going issue with those types of bridges for 60 years or so, I doubt Fender will do much regarding any emails... I agree that one *shouldn't* have to worry about getting cut like this, it is what it is, and isn't that difficult to deal with, IMO...
- georgestrings
Just me, I hate the bridge on fenders/squires. It's the only part of the design I don't like. I play finger style but switch it up sometimes to pick style sans pick. I use my thumbnail or fingernail. I replaced the bridge on my squire with a bad ass II. But that's probably a bad suggestion for you and a real fender. It'll hurt the resale value of the bass. It's an easy swap out but again, that's just me.
Or, as others have stated, file em down a little bit. Quicker, cheaper and easier.
Or, as others have stated, file em down a little bit. Quicker, cheaper and easier.
I haven't removed a screw from one of those bridges, but an example would be the "vintage" style with the threaded saddles - those screws are 6-32x7/16"... You can buy or order set screws that are 6-32x3/8", or 1/4", depending on what you need... Most good hardware stores will have a selection of set screws - take one out of your bridge, *match up the threads*, and buy the lengths you need - they're probably less than $.25 each... Set screws will also require an allen wrench for adjustment, so make sure you have the right one at that time... Lastly - buy some blue locktite(medium strength, removeable), and put a drop on each screw before threading them into the saddles - and your bridge woes will be permanently cured...
The above is exactly what I would do in your situation - it won't cost much, won't drastically alter your new bass, and will be very effective... Hope this helps,
- gergestrings
You can unthread them a little for better access, then deburr them a little with a small file, or just do it with them in place if you're careful...
- georgestrings
I'e always just taken a file and run it around the top of the offending screw. Not across the top, but at an angle around the shoulders. It is usually just the beginning of the thread that is sharp, not the whole thing, but it takes so little time I just go all the way anyway.
It costs you nothing, changes nothing of the value or originality, and doesn't raise the possibility of being a different hex size.
It costs you nothing, changes nothing of the value or originality, and doesn't raise the possibility of being a different hex size.
