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I'm guessing so. The big heavy tuners with the small pins toward the nut were used on the Plus and then on the Deluxes until about '97 or '98 when the Deluxes got the lightweight tuners with the large pins toward the end of the headstock. My 2000 Am Series came with the same heavy tuners as the Plus only the keys were the flat stamped ones. The modern lightweight tuners with the large pins toward the headstock weren't introduced on the American Standard until sometime after 2013. I have no knowledge of any of them between 2000 and 2013. One of the Hipshot ads I read stated that the BT8 fits '08 and newer, but I don't know which models it was referring to. The BT8 sure looks like the Plus tuners from the pretty side. FYI - The BT12 Is a match for the modern Elite, Pro, Pro II, and later era Am Standards, but def not the 2013.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,591
- 221,978
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
If interested - Fender Jazz plus deluxe 1990 | Reverb (no affiliation) in the cool reverse-burst "ghost finish".
I have a '92 Jazz+ on its way from the west coast. I was going to spring for another Suhr era Jazz Deluxe in a color and condition that had me on the ledge, but I decided that there are things about the Jazz+ that I like more. NBD to follow.
I have a '92 Jazz Bass Plus 4-string with a tobacco burst finish and maple fretboard, and a Hipshot D-tuner that I added myself. I am the original owner. I pinched pennies for about 6 months working part-time while going to college full-time in order to pay for it. I played it for about 8 years with my band until it broke up and I went back to my first love of playing drums.
Recently I pulled it out of the closet and started playing it again. It's in pretty good condition for being 32 years old, and I'm surprised to see that over the years many people still search for and appreciate this model. I admit that I often have wished I had a "regular" Fender Jazz Bass instead of this special model, but I can't argue with how good it sounds, and it has sentimental value. Since I'm just getting back into playing, I keep it in passive mode so that there are fewer adjustments for me to worry about - blend and tone are more than enough at this point!
The only real issue I have is the finish peeling off the fretboard in various places (see 2nd photo below). I read somewhere that this is not uncommon for basses from that era. Is there a good way to fix/restore this? Or am I better off just leaving it alone and appreciating the instrument along with its scars?
I also have a question about pickup height on this bass. The Fender manual from 1992 says "No limit" when it comes to Fender-Lace Sensors pickup height - does that mean I should just put them as close as I dare without the strings hitting the covers excessively?
Recently I pulled it out of the closet and started playing it again. It's in pretty good condition for being 32 years old, and I'm surprised to see that over the years many people still search for and appreciate this model. I admit that I often have wished I had a "regular" Fender Jazz Bass instead of this special model, but I can't argue with how good it sounds, and it has sentimental value. Since I'm just getting back into playing, I keep it in passive mode so that there are fewer adjustments for me to worry about - blend and tone are more than enough at this point!
The only real issue I have is the finish peeling off the fretboard in various places (see 2nd photo below). I read somewhere that this is not uncommon for basses from that era. Is there a good way to fix/restore this? Or am I better off just leaving it alone and appreciating the instrument along with its scars?
I also have a question about pickup height on this bass. The Fender manual from 1992 says "No limit" when it comes to Fender-Lace Sensors pickup height - does that mean I should just put them as close as I dare without the strings hitting the covers excessively?
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- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,591
- 221,978
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
For the pu height - depress the last frets and raise the pu's close to the strings w/o touching. Play it and if any string are louder than the rest - lower the louder side of the pu's.
As far as the clear-coat delaminating from the fb - I'd remove it although it doesn't affect playing or sound - it's mostly cosmetic. Use a fresh razor-blade and carefully get under the loose clear-coat and lift as much as you can off. You can wedge the razor parallel to the frets and lift off the lifted sections there. Once you remove all the loose material - you can use stripper applied with a small artists brush only on the remaining clear-coat. Unless you live in CA where our stripper is worthless - it will buckle and you can gently scrape it off with a plastic putty knife. Once all off, you may have to use fine sandpaper or maybe a scotch-pad to even out any residual discoloring from doing the work. I also use a flat-blade to skim/shave the surface which will remove any residue. Maple doesn't really need oiling like rosewood/ebony - so once it's removed and the wood is shaved/sanded - you're done.
I wish Hipshot still offered their Drop-D mechanism for those sculpted F-tuners.
First post on the forum. I joined looking for info on Jazz Bass Pluses and came across this thread.
I had one of these from 2007-2008, the exact same color. I sold it and regretted it ever since. I'm mainly a guitar player but I've played bass on and off in bands since I was a kid.
I searched and came across this one from Guitar Center used. I think it's always gamble to buy online and it wasn't the best deal (although I don't think I got raked over the coals).
Honestly this is in great condition and I was very surprised when I unboxed it. There's a finish crack on the front from the neck pocket but other than that the frets could use a polishing and that's it. Whoever owned it before had a great setup done to it.
I planned on gutting it, replacing the pickups, changing the tuners out, etc. in order to make it lighter. It's only 8.7 lbs and I wanted to see how light I could get it. After playing it for a bit I realized I don't wanna change a thing. I've been digging the active without mid boost setting the most.
It didn't come with a case so I'm not sure how easy it is to track one down but I'm on the lookout!
I had one of these from 2007-2008, the exact same color. I sold it and regretted it ever since. I'm mainly a guitar player but I've played bass on and off in bands since I was a kid.
I searched and came across this one from Guitar Center used. I think it's always gamble to buy online and it wasn't the best deal (although I don't think I got raked over the coals).
Honestly this is in great condition and I was very surprised when I unboxed it. There's a finish crack on the front from the neck pocket but other than that the frets could use a polishing and that's it. Whoever owned it before had a great setup done to it.
I planned on gutting it, replacing the pickups, changing the tuners out, etc. in order to make it lighter. It's only 8.7 lbs and I wanted to see how light I could get it. After playing it for a bit I realized I don't wanna change a thing. I've been digging the active without mid boost setting the most.
It didn't come with a case so I'm not sure how easy it is to track one down but I'm on the lookout!
Attachments
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,591
- 221,978
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Nice score
I have modded nearly every bass I ever owned but the Jazz+ is one I didn't touch. They were the top-of-the-line just below the FCS when introduced in '90 and very influenced by the Kubicki Factor, which the FCS briefly aligned with then. I only let mine go because I already had a couple of basses loaded with the FCS/Kubicki 9v pre. And as I've disclosed prior - having owned both the 18v & 9v versions, I preferred the 9v version as its true character lives in the active mode.The OHSC was the Fender plastic moulded ones which may be hard to find and may have 'feet' damage as many do. It will fit in most generic HSC's as the body is smaller than a standard Jazz bass.
Lot's of epoxy -
...and these two were missing so I epoxied chrome knobs to take their place. Frankly I'd avoid searching for these plastic cases and just buy a standard one that fits. The older the plastic is - the brittler it becomes.
Cool thanks for the info on the cases! I knew the bodies were smaller, do they knock around some in a regular J bass case or are they somewhat secure?Nice score
The OHSC was the Fender plastic moulded ones which may be hard to find and may have 'feet' damage as many do. It will fit in most generic HSC's as the body is smaller than a standard Jazz bass.
View attachment 6983439
View attachment 6983440
Lot's of epoxy -
View attachment 6983443
...and these two were missing so I epoxied chrome knobs to take their place. Frankly I'd avoid searching for these plastic cases and just buy a standard one that fits. The older the plastic is - the brittler it becomes.
View attachment 6983444
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,591
- 221,978
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
This will give you an idea of 3 different-shaped Fender Jazz basses. Red is a late '80s-early '90s Gen1 American Standard, Black is a standard Jazz, and blue is the Jazz+. Most generic HSC's that fit Fender basses can be P-bass wide or Jazz bass wide, which is wider. Because of this it will fit a P-bass width better. Check the listings inside dimensions which they usually provide.
The original tuners on these are 4.3oz. each. You can shave off a lot of weight with Schaller BML ... "L" for light, or the modern Fender American tuners. I'll look over at the "Hardware and Setup" forum for a link to the thread where I documented the conversion. Most notably, the difference will be the positions of the locating pins. There's a jig available to make this installation simple and accurate if the pins are on the wrong end.
https://reverb.com/item/57713885-bass-guitar-tuner-installation-tool-pin-mount-drill-jig-fender
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/fender-american-lightweight-tuners.1601876/#post-27399380
The ones I've posted in my classifieds ad should be the ones your bass is currently sporting. It will have the smaller pins and located towards the nut. The new Fender American tuners have the large pins located toward the end of the headstock...if I'm not mistaking...pushing through a mother of a case of vertigo right now to get this posted for you. Heres my ad...for reference..
https://www.talkbass.com/classifieds/90s-fender-deluxe-2-pin-tuners-3rd-set-now-available.1605302/
You arent likely to find anything new with the cast clover tuners ..only Y shaped as in the Schallers. The Fenders will have flat stamped clovers. You might luck out and find a set of Fender Am Deluxe tuners from the mid to late '90s. They'll have the small cast clovers.
...Good Luck!
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Cool, thanks for replying and all the info!
I actually saw your posts when I was searching around here.
My plan was to get some of these after I saw them in that thread:
https://www.talkbass.com/classifieds/90s-fender-deluxe-2-pin-tuners-3rd-set-now-available.1605302/
I know I'd have to have some drilling done but I'm guessing these will cover up the pin mounting holes.
I was going to buy some and before I took em to get drilled just pop one of the old ones off and see if the posts are the same height.
Those look really nice, and I've never met a Gotoh tuner that I didn't like. I find them silky smooth. Please let us know how it all matches up if you go with them. The current Fender American and Schaller MBL will definitely expose the old pin holes....
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Well it's been a yearish and I've been playing bass a lot more so I thought I'd give an update.
I had the electronics replaced with standard 250k pots and the tuners replaced too. When I bought it it was around 8.7 lbs and between the electronics, the tuners, and the knobs, I'm almost positive it's under 8 lbs now. The tuners had to be drilled but I took it to a trusted luthier and I am happy with the results.
I'm still on the fence about replacing the pickups. I'm curious what is the same size for direct drop in replacement. I have some friends that have large loud bass amps and I wanna hear it through one of those instead of my small practice amp.
Anyone happy with replacing their pickups on their Jazz Bass Plus?
I had the electronics replaced with standard 250k pots and the tuners replaced too. When I bought it it was around 8.7 lbs and between the electronics, the tuners, and the knobs, I'm almost positive it's under 8 lbs now. The tuners had to be drilled but I took it to a trusted luthier and I am happy with the results.
I'm still on the fence about replacing the pickups. I'm curious what is the same size for direct drop in replacement. I have some friends that have large loud bass amps and I wanna hear it through one of those instead of my small practice amp.
Anyone happy with replacing their pickups on their Jazz Bass Plus?
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,591
- 221,978
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
If I remember correctly, the two pu's are the same width which limits your options. I thought they sounded fine with the original Fender/Kubicki 9v electronics.
Somethings throwing me off... are those controls laid out in a straight Kubicki pattern? Optical illusion maybe. Too bad you don't have the original 9v Kubicki preamp. The pickup routes are both the long (bridge) cut. I think the original Lace Sensors were equal length. Any pickup jazz pickup will fit in either position, but I can't swear as to the mounting hole positions. I had one of these that was sent with a Fender CS set. No mods were needed for the pickups to fit. Incidentally, I regard the bridges on these one of the best that Fender ever put out. Perfection.
I just had em put the controls in a typical Jazz Bass fashion, front the back is neck volume, bridge volume, and tone. I had to replace the knobs. I thought I kept the pre-amp and tuners in a bag somewhere but I can't find them! I've a Jazz Bass Plus twice and both times I never used the pre-amp, just bypassed it, so I figured I'd get it taken out.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,591
- 221,978
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
The Kubicki/Fender 9v pre has integrated pots in the circuit-board harness, so if using a standard J plate - it wouldn't fit. The flange routs on the J+ N-pu will not allow a standard J N pu as they the N & B pu's (and routs) are the same width. And yes, it's a well designed bridge.
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I'll have to go take some pickup measurements on one of mine when I get a chance.
