Fender Precision 1978

[40Hz]

Other than for educational purposes I'm not sure why further dating the pieces should matter at this point. It's not an original vintage bass. Enough has been changed out that it's essentially a Frankenbass and no longer a collectible. Almost strikes me as somebody's player who's been gradually parting it out over the years.

If it sounds and plays well, you like it, and the price is right, that should be enough reason to get it if you want it. A good sounding lightweight Fender is nothing to thumb your nose at.

But there's no way I'd consider anything other than used bass pricing for it. At this point, the fact some parts of it may date to '78 shouldn't have any bearing on its price IMO.

But that's maybe just me. YMMV.

 

[Killing Floor]

Those pickups are a good choice. Throw a high mass bridge on and it will sound very good.
P necks are chunkier than J necks.
If the price is right it looks like a decent bass. If you want it to be harder to play you can buy replacement covers.

 

[Fender_Bender]

Looks a lot newer than 42 years old. No apparent finish wear or checking anywhere along with a suspiciously light weight @ 8.8 pounds for that time period. No TV logo?.

 

[portpc]

I'd agree with the 80's assessment, The capacitor in the circuit is a WIMA film cap with a 1980's date code, as the OP is in Europe I presume a replacement cap of German origin makes sense.

 

[Gerard Vic]

Many thanks to all of you, I have learned many small details from you in a short time!

OK, it seems that many things have been exchanged for some reason. What's your opinion on how much is such a bass worth? How much would you spend at most? It will never reach a collector's value again. Just the fact that I could work and record well with it.

 

[TJIann]

Nice bass. I have an all original '78P that I bought new back then. Much heavier around 11lbs, which is typical for that time. Agree on replaced pick guard, bridge, etc. BUT, the neck on mine (which looks just like the one you are demo-ing) is just awesome. Has stayed straight and true for years, with just a nice feel. Enjoy!

 

[Gerard Vic]

Do you see what kind of wood it is?
This bass was good in my hands. That is the positive thing about this bass. The frets look good too.
But I'm still not sure what I'm gonna do. I can certainly save money here, but if everything is original, it feels quite different.

 

[TJIann]

Mine is black with maple neck, alder body.

 

[LeFunk Machine]

Do you see what kind of wood it is?
This bass was good in my hands. That is the positive thing about this bass. The frets look good too.
But I'm still not sure what I'm gonna do. I can certainly save money here, but if everything is original, it feels quite different.

If you're feeling doubtful about it, I think you should skip on it, or if you do still want it, try getting a really great bargain. How much is the seller asking?

 

[FenderOli]

Do you see what kind of wood it is?

That is Ash for sure.

 

[bassfuser]

I have a '78 P and here a couple things I notice that are different that haven't been mentioned. The head on mine doesn't have a cutout for a truss rod adjustment. The Fender logo on the head also has thicker lettering. I'm talking the Fender lettering. Mine looks to have kind of a gold outline that has about the same width as the black lettering. The serial number looks legit though. My neck doesn't have the dark wood on the back but this could maybe be a normal option? It also appears the cutout on top back of the body extends further into the bass on the bass you are looking at.

I agree with others though. I'd buy if it plays nice, sounds good and the price is right.

 

[Gerard Vic]

I compare many photos with each other. I also noticed that the grain of the wood is not very "sexy". Otherwise the basses from that time somehow always look quite good. Or do I see it wrong?
The talk so far is of 1700€ without a counter offer having been made so far.

 

[BassFishingInAmerica]

I have a '78 P and here a couple things I notice that are different that haven't been mentioned. The head on mine doesn't have a cutout for a truss rod adjustment. The Fender logo on the head also has thicker lettering. I'm talking the Fender lettering. Mine looks to have kind of a gold outline that has about the same width as the black lettering. The serial number looks legit though. My neck doesn't have the dark wood on the back but this could maybe be a normal option? It also appears the cutout on top back of the body extends further into the bass on the bass you are looking at.

I agree with others though. I'd buy if it plays nice, sounds good and the price is right.

Do you have a rosewood fretboard? The skunk stripe on the back is for truss rod installation on maple necks.

 

[bassfuser]

Do you have a rosewood fretboard? The skunk stripe on the back is for truss rod installation on maple necks.

Yes, mine is rosewood. Thanks for the info. I guess that makes sense since the maple is probably a solid piece for the neck and fretboard.

 

[coreyfyfe]

I think this is an accurate assessment. We're probably looking at an early 80s Precision.

The early 80s basses while they had S8/S9 serial numbers had different stamped date codes than the 8 digit code used on the 70s neck. Hard to make out the date code on this neck. It could be an early 80s, or could be a 78 neck paired to a non-original body.

The pickups, electronics, neck plate and bridge have all been pointed out as replacement parts, the neck plate and allen key bridge are especially anachronistic for 70s or early 80s and the pots are wrong for a late 70s P bass. Both of my late 70s P basses had nylon shaft pots but my jazz from the same era has metal shaft.

 

[_Obra_]

Now it's three months after the last post....I'm interested what happened? Did the guy bought it?