yup thats basically what i said . fender put the best speaker in there .. FOR THE PRICE .. and you can always find other speakers .. some good some not so good and some even better .. in the end it will be about the price ..usually ...
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fender rumble 40 just wonderin ??
- Thread starter frenchy
- Start date
yup thats basically what i said . fender put the best speaker in there .. FOR THE PRICE .. and you can always find other speakers .. some good some not so good and some even better .. in the end it will be about the price ..usually ...
just curious but where did you get those specs from about the speaker ?? i couldn't find anything about it other than its a fender special design
I have no idea what kind of speaker that really is but the Ebay ad promotes it as being for PA and home stereo use. It would probably sound worse than the stock speaker in the Fender since it is not designed specifically for bass guitar.
Ask the Ebay vendor for the Thiele/Small (often just called T/S) parameters for that speaker....I bet they don't exist
Analogeezer
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uhhh.. absolutely no .. tube watts is not the same as solid state watts .. if you wanna get close to what the output would be tube vs. solid state the rule of thumb is to divide by 2.5 ....so a 50 watt ss amp will getcha about 20 watts of output comparin it to tubes . some amps could be a few more or less ..or they would sound louder cause the speaker has a higher spl or a lower spl .. i'm sure you've heard that everytime you wanna raise your output by 3 db 's you have to double your watts . so a 50 watt amp is not twice as loud as 25 watt amp ..in fact if the speakers have a better spl in the 25 watt amp it can actually be louder than the 50 watt amp ..
I have no idea what kind of speaker that really is but the Ebay ad promotes it as being for PA and home stereo use. It would probably sound worse than the stock speaker in the Fender since it is not designed specifically for bass guitar.
Ask the Ebay vendor for the Thiele/Small (often just called T/S) parameters for that speaker....I bet they don't exist
Analogeezer
its all in there .. you just had to look .. here ya go ..
General Specifications:
- Nominal Diameter: 10 inch
- Rated Impedance: 8 ohms
- Operating Bandwidth: 38Hz ~ 3KHz
- Power Handling Capacity: 125W RMS
- Sensitivity (1W/M): 95 dB
- Voice Coil Diameter: 2 inch
- Overall frame diameter: 10.10"
- diagonal mounting hole to hole measurement: 9.75"
Thiele-Small Parameters:
- Resonance Frequency Fs: 38 Hz
- DC Resistance Re: 7.2 ohm
- Mechanical Q Factor Qms: 2.7
- Electrical Q Factor Qes: 0.369
- Total Q Factor Qts: 0.32
- Equivalent Cas air load Vas: 62.0 liters
- Coil Inductance Le: 0.293 mH
- Efficiency Bandwidth Product EBP 102.98
- Voice Coil Over Hang X-max 3.5mm
Physical Information:
- Basket: Stamped Steel
- Cutout: 8.90"
- Mounting Depth: 4.3"
- Magnet Type: 40 OZ
- Cone Material: Non-pressed paper
- Surround: Cloth
- Dust Cap: Paper
- Damper: Cloth
That's mostly true in the guitar world, but really not at all accurate when it comes to any bass amp design in the last 15yrs or so. It was possibly true at one point, but that was a while ago, and amp technology in the bass world has bypassed the tube v SS debate since (at least as far as their relative volume is concerned).
To answer your original question in this thread, I'd look to Eminence for a replacement speaker that doesn't cost a second mortgage. They have a solid variety of options, though like most others on here, I'd say that swapping the speaker on the R40 isn't really worth the time, money, or effort involved. Or pretty much any bass amp. Speaker swapping is so much more problematic with bass, for a large variety of reasons.
As a follow up, here's a question for you: why are you so interested in (possibly) swapping speakers on this amp? Like, has the current speaker failed you somehow? I'm just trying to understand why you're convinced this is the move you need to make here. Unless I missed it, you haven't explained why you're looking into this. It would probably help everyone here who'd want to chip in!
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That seller is reselling an MCM 55-2951 which sells for $18.77 from Newark (who bought out McM years ago.)
Fender special design means that the driver and the power amp are designed together, enabling the package to compensate for inadequacies in either. Mainly, the amp's frequency spectrum is tailored to boost weak points in the driver's response and damp resonant peaks a bit. Since they're designed to work together there's no need for the driver voice coil to be any standard impedance, 4 or 8 or 16 ohms.
All this means is that the amp by itself, and the driver by itself, will probably not behave the way one might expect. So, it's not obvious that either would work with other off-the-shelf components. This would be why there are no connections for extension speakers on the Rumble 40 - extension speakers and the Rumble amp were not designed to work together. (It does have a Line Out, but that's not the part of the electronics which are tailored to the driver.)
None of which means that non-standard combinations can't be made to work. But swapping drivers around is not an easy way to upgrade the 40, it's a way to start an R&D project.
I agree that VERY much looks like one. MCM at least if not the exact model. I use their stuff all the time.
If that's the 55-2951 you'll need about 1 ft3 (or more) tuned (ported) a bit above fs. SPL drops pretty quickly above 2.5k. The Fender may have better high end. I also don't remember the 55-2951 testing 95dB when Mr. Bowlus had my S10BT on the bench, which used that driver. I think it was more like 93 but it did realize the winISD frequency graph, so there's that.
don't touch it, I have a bronko 40 its got usb, you can plug it in and pass the amp's audio strait to a computer and record with it, its quite nice, can also go xlr di into an interface from the amp, I think the amp you got there can do that also.
well here's a clip for you about amps and this is part 2 ..if you skip to the 15 minute mark it will break down the 2.5 to one solid state vs tube debate .. and they are amp designers and builders so i think they're aware of what they're talkin about .. you'll probably wanna watch all three parts tho cause it is interestin .. and yes there are a lotta different variables .. spl ratins .. and the ohms.. 4 ohms is louder than 8 ..but in my entire life i've never had a ss amp that could even almost come close to a tube amp ..just the way things are .. sayin all that tho i do think the right speaker will usually work better and like i had said in the my other posts i do believe the eminence at 300 watts is probably overkill .. so i posted an ebay special that would probably work better for half the price ... which is what i was kinda lookin for .. for just in case .. if you're gettin a speaker for bass you wanna look at the freq. resp. .. i just figured i'd get 67 guys tellin me to look at this or that .. and i'd look and then consider and make a note of it for if and when i ever decided to do that.. so for your answer to your followup ..i have my own shop and work on guitars ( pretty much retired now tho ) but i still like to monkey around with stuff .. what will happen if i try these pickups in this guitar ?? or that guitar .. i have an sg that i put mini humbuckers in..
anyway i didn't know there was a word limit here .. i monkey around with stuff .. i can always put it back again .. but if anyone ever asks is there a better speaker for this amp ?? has anyone tried it ?? i can say yeah .. it was good and got way more bottom end ..or it was ok but the original one was better .. i just didn't know witch bass speakers most guys were usin for lower wattage amps .. nobody offered up a brand or speaker to try that was within reason . i found one tho .. one guy gave the specs on the rumble speaker but didn't give where he got them figures from as a source .. so ..not sayin he's wrong .. just not sure he's right .. i'm a curious guy ... wasn't tryin to start a flame war ..
good to know .. thanks for the info .. who is newark ?? i was born in newark .. but that was a long long time ago ..
Am I the only one here that feels like we're getting another fast one pulled on us?
Yeah it doesn't work like that. You don't have to use a speaker that has a thermal power rating the same as your amp puts out. The speaker in the amp is probably good for 100 watts, maybe 150. You can use a speaker rated for 400 watts if you want, that's just the thermal power rating.
Think of it like the speed odometer on your car. It may show that it goes up to 150 mph, but how often do you do that? Your car runs just fine at 55mph.
Just an FYI incase someone hasn't already chimed in here...watts is watts. A 40-watt rms amp regardless of whether it's tube or not is 40-watts. Watts in a tube amp are no more powerful than watts in a Solid State (SS) amp. HOWEVER, as a tube amp starts to distort, it sounds a whole lot better than an SS amp with the same amount of distortion, and distortion can get pretty high in a all-tube amp before it sounds bad. With an SS amp, it pretty well starts sounding bad right away when it distorts. With an all-valve amp, as it first starts getting saturated it gets an overdriven sound because the tubes are maxed out or overdriven. As you push the preamp signal hotter you get more distortion more quickly and can get a really dirty sound out of it before it really just sounds bad.
Unless there is a tube emulation chip in the solid state amp, when it starts to distort, it sounds pretty bad. Almost all of the Tube emulation chips that I know about are meant to emulate a 12ax7 tube in the gain section of an amp and that adds some distortion that sounds like tube distortion. With Eden hybrid amps, they have a 12ax7 in the impedance matching section operating within set parameters to produce a "warmer" sound than a 100% FET front end amp does (I have both types). It's not adjustable but it does add warmth to the sound.
The latest Eden class A/B amps, the Eden WTP series also have a second 12ax7 tube in the gain section and utilize a "tube mix" control to control just how much distortion is added to the otherwise clean but warm signal. With a 100% tube amp, besides the distortion from the tubes in the preamp, you also get distortion from the power tubes as they get over-saturated. Even tube emulation chips don't include that power tube distortion.
So, using a tube amp allows you to overdrive your amp significantly while still sounding good. With solid state amps...not so much. Usually they are rated at the rms watts rating producing a sound with a very low Total Harmonic Distortion (THD). With your all-tube amp, you may not even like the sound of it until it is producing sound with 10% THD or more. With a little luck, perhaps @agedhorse can pop in here and explain it better since he's designed both types of amps for Mesa.
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I only read some of the replies, but the Fender Rumble 40 is a great practice amp.
It’s a Volkswagen Beetle.
It’s not a muscle car.
Appreciate it for what it is.
Forget hot-ridding it.
If you want/need something bigger, buy it!
It’s a small amp, but what it does, it does well.
Mike
It’s a Volkswagen Beetle.
It’s not a muscle car.
Appreciate it for what it is.
Forget hot-ridding it.
If you want/need something bigger, buy it!
It’s a small amp, but what it does, it does well.
Mike
The Fender Rumble Club members and the Rumble Club Wiki page are a wealth of Rumble Knowledge
