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Fender Rumble Club

It should come as no surprise that a naked speaker cabinet is going to sound 'boxy'; 'wooden', and/or 'hollow' . Proper acoustic treatment eliminates that. Plus it will also break up and absorb standing sound waves and rebounding waves inside the cabinet. Ideally you want only air coming out of your ports, and not sound. All the sound should be coming from the cone(s) of your speakers. Lining your cabinet will also benefit your clarity of bottom end effectively tightening it up. Same thing for the entire mid-range especially the all important low mids where the real punch and attack lives. The absorptive qualities of a good quality acoustic foam will mimic the natural decay found in a larger cabinet and in effect makes your bass sound 'bigger' even though it isn't. You might think you would be smitten with sonic goodness but in reality this is pretty subtle stuff, but it is additive and if you have a good ear for tone you will be well pleased with the results.

A poorly designed plywood bass cabinet can be extremely resonant, making all kinds of undesirable noises at various frequencies. MDF is of course much more dense and heavy. It is a good choice for sub-woofers.

Right, I've read a bit about speaker design and it seems both an art and science to build good / affordable ones.
Ported, closed, band-pass or passive radiator enclosures, box volume and material, using acoustic foam or other materials, it all effects the sound.

It takes time and costs money.
Yes, the Rumbles are designed to be affordable (and sound good as well) - you can also tell that because not every inner part of the cabinet is painted.
Not a big problem, they still look great from the outside. And adding a bit of foam is pretty easy to do and doesn't cost much.
 
Thanks to your photo's eric_B. I'm feeling inspired. Your work looks good. Please let us know what results from your effort.
No problem. I found the sound tightens up, not a day to night difference but it sure brings more definition.
I did some recordings from none to all foam panels but they didn't turn out so well given them a quick listen.
I'll check them out if they are worth putting up online.
 
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Every structure has a resonant frequency and harmonics as a function of dimensions coinciding with wavelengths. This can be a feature or a bug, depending on what your design goals are. Ever notice how cheap automobile subwoofer "boom tubes" thump out basically one frequency? Designed that way for a maximum of sound pressure for a minimum of amplification and components. There are always trade-offs between fidelity, bandwidth, power, directionality, and cost. Another example is when you hit one string on your instrument, and another string vibrates too, even though you didn't hit it. It's also the reason you want the neck-to-body joint on your bass to be as tight as possible -- and the logic behind neck-through designs -- to treat the entire assembly as one sonic entity.

In our amplifiers, we want to start with as even a frequency distribution as possible, then we tweak the hell out of out EQs to mould the tone we want. Starting from dead flat gives us users the greatest base from which to tweak.

Everything matters in speaker design: the way the driver is designed and manufactured, the way the cabinet is designed and manufactured and assembled, and ultimately the shape and materials of the room in which you are playing. There can be some interesting effects like a cabinet with some resonant freqs sounding neutral due to sloppy assembly allowing some of those rogue freqs to get absorbed in the slightly moving joints.

Along with the addition of foam, there is another mod you can perform on inexpensive cabinets: tighten up the joints between panels. The ultimate way to do this is during the manufacturing process via carefully crafted joints like box joints or dovetail joints but this has to be done at the time of manufacture. An effective way to remedy low-cost manufacturing techniques is to add reinforcing fillets to the joints. Here's how:

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Well, that's the Rumble 100 packed and shipped back to the store to sort the overdrive problem. I had the devil's own time finding a box, packing & shipping it, but managed to get it done in the end. Now all that's left is the wait. In the meantime I'm using my old Ampeg BA-108, which sounds nice, but weighs a ton. It's about 30% heavier than my Rumble, despite being half the size and a quarter of the power. I now remember why I switched. :)
 
I'm not an expert, but I THINK the clip light isn't needed because of the delta comp limiter. i.e. the signal is compressed transparently before clipping occurs.

So it's a cost-saving measure.
This is correct for several reasons: 1) the Gain is not a channel volume; 2) the Delta-Comp Limiter is the most advanced design of it's type with over 20 years of on going refinement, 3) the clip detection circuit that ties in with the Delta-Comp Limiter.

It's not so much of a cost saving measure as an amp saving measure. That's the major protective device that makes Fender Rumbles damn near teenager proof. If your amp isn't reliable then it isn't gig-worthy.

A genius of an amp designer by the name of Bruce Zinky working for Fender in the 1990's once said, "Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." ~ page 395 'The Soul Of Tone' by Tom Wheeler
 
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