fender type capcitor

[iplay4-5]

i'm woundering what is the value of the capcitor of most stock mim fender jazz basses? as i'm building a custom 6-string but love that jazz growl i was thinking it was a .047 or a .022, what value cap will yeild the most punch and growl well once again thanxz alot talkbassers. peace n love

 

[luknfur]

i'm woundering what is the value of the capcitor of most stock mim fender jazz basses? as i'm building a custom 6-string but love that jazz growl i was thinking it was a .047 or a .022, what value cap will yeild the most punch and growl well once again thanxz alot talkbassers. peace n love

FWIW:

Don't know but .047 is pretty standard 4 string bass. Personally I'd get a few from about .01, .025, and .05 to get a ballpark for need of anything different. The larger the value the darker the tone. .005 variation you probably be hard pressed to tell any difference in. Haven't messed enough with caps to get a feel for caps related to punch and growl but there will be a lot of other variables that will factor into that and affect outcome. Caps are cheap and easy to replace. If you do it, you will know.

 

[mgamache65]

most of my p basses have .022 on the tone pots, i have tried different capacitors and pots and have stuck with .022's and
have replaced all my pots with cts 250k, i beleive the higher the value the more frequency is cut, as the tone control on a p-bass is passive only (cuts tone only, no boost) i would say that your choice of amp and speakers have much more control over whether you have "growl" in your tone.. i always run my p's wide open anyway so the capacitors are out of the picture anyway,,,try it, to get that growly p-bass tone boost your low mids and run your bass wide open for the best signal to noise ratio.

 

[Lyle Caldwell]

I prefer .047uf caps over .022uf, even though I never turn the tone pot all the way down, instead turning it to about the same treble roll off that a .022uf cap would give. I prefer .047uf because it changes the taper of the pot, giving a lot more subtle changes in the same sweep range. I suggest trying both.

BTW, the tone pot and cap are always affecting the tone, even when the knob is on 10. You're always loading down the pickup(s) by another 250K/500K depending on the pot value (though given how resistors work in series, this isn't an intuitive load change). Plus the cap always rolls off a little bit of highs, even with the pot on 10.

If you really want to lose all loading and coloration when the pot is on 10, you can open the pot up and put a dab of clear nail polish on the carbon track in the position where the wiper rests on "10". This takes the pot and the cap completely out of the circuit when the pot is on 10, but as soon as you turn to 9.5 or below, the pot and cap are back in the circuit and the tone knob works as normal.

I only suggest doing this with a sturdy CTS pot, as most of the asian pots (especially the mini-pots) are too flimsy and the tabs holding the pot together will break.

 

[luknfur]

If you really want to lose all loading and coloration when the pot is on 10, you can open the pot up and put a dab of clear nail polish on the carbon track in the position where the wiper rests on "10". This takes the pot and the cap completely out of the circuit when the pot is on 10, but as soon as you turn to 9.5 or below, the pot and cap are back in the circuit and the tone knob works as normal.
will break.

FWIW:

I've only heard of no-load pots made in 1M. Is there a reason for that?

 

[Lyle Caldwell]

Dunno. I thought the Fender "Delta Tone" pot was 250K. Doesn't matter really. Any CTS pot can be made "no load."