i plan to put cherry binding on my next fingerboard. i don't want the frets to go to the full thought the cherry, just stop where the fingerboard ends and the binding begins. i have the fingerboard width taper figured. do i reduce the width of the fingerboard by the width of the binding to keep it the same, or do i keep the width, and add the cherry? how wide can i make the binding? how do i fret it so that it doesn't look odd? i am used to fret it, trim the extra, then file the ends at 45 degrees (found a cool tool for this [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]) if there are any orther things i should know, thanx very much for the info!
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fingerboard binding help
- Thread starter jordan_frerichs
- Start date
Geoff St. Germaine
Commercial User
- Aug 31, 2001
- 6,267
- 302
- Disclosures
- Owner - St. Germaine Guitars
If you taper the fretboard to the width of the neck minus the width of the binding, then things will work out correctly. If you taper the fretboard to the full width of the neck then either the binding would stick out past the neck or the neck will have to be wider. The normal flow I've seen for what you're doing is slotting the board when it is still square then tapering it to the width of the neck minus the width of the binding (for both sides obviously) and then adding then binding. I've even seen this done where the binding is a well grain matched part of the fretboard cut-off (slotted after being tapered) so the board doesn't look bound but the fret tang doesn't extend to the edge of the fretboard.
mikeyswood
Inactive
thaat is wher i got the idea to do cherry binding. the center section of the bass is cherry, and the maple leading into the maple looks great. any worried of the string going past the freting, into to binding and sounding bad? i have mine planed out so that the edge comes 3/16" inch from the center of the outer strings.
Traditionally the binding should not change the neck dimension at all. Cut the FB just as narrow as your binding is.
You need to nip the tang off so that the fret crown lays over the binding but the kerf does not go through. Then dress as usual. There are "special" tools for this but I just use my flush nippers and make two cuts. You may need to carefully file off the small amount of excess tang left over or it will not seat properly.
Greg N
You need to nip the tang off so that the fret crown lays over the binding but the kerf does not go through. Then dress as usual. There are "special" tools for this but I just use my flush nippers and make two cuts. You may need to carefully file off the small amount of excess tang left over or it will not seat properly.
Greg N
that would be a thin fingerboard! i see whatyou are saying. so i would be okay with having the end of the board 3/16" away from the string center, and only 1/16" of that being fretted, the other 1/8" being unfretted binding?
mikeyswood
Inactive
I think that would look quite strange to be honest. It would also be difficult to smooth the burr at the end of the fret. Most of us cut the tang back on the fret so that the fret extends beyond the slot and is able to be dressed normally.
i did not mea the fret go sligtly into the bind. i ment string, 1/16" fretted fingerbord remainer, then 1/8" binding.
Wow Jordan. With all the pour spilling goin on around hear eye kant beleeve ewe wood evin notis my bad gramma. 
First you have to separate the binding issue from the fret details. One is aesthetic and the other is a function. Most people will want the frets to extend all the way to the edge of the FB but not be able to feel them when playing. Sometimes necks shrink a little in very dry climates and you have to re-do the ends. The same thing happens in reverse but no one complains because you can't feel it.
If you want to cut your frets ever so slightly shy of the edge of the FB and dress them before installing that is your call. There are a few builders who do that. It has everything to do with feel and nothing to do with whether the FB is bound or not.
Perhaps some photo's will help. These came from a double neck acoustic I did a couple of years back.
After the FB is bound and installed (some people fret before installing) I level and then file a small V into the top of the kerfs. This helps the fret go in, keeps the FB from chipping if a fret needs to come out but most importantly allows for the micro fillet that is at the intersection of the crown and the fret tang.
This photo shows two systems for nipping off the tang to accommodate the binding. With either system I find it best to use a fine file to remove the burr left over from removing the tang.
Then install, dress and polish.
Really not all that much trouble for a much better look.
Greg N
First you have to separate the binding issue from the fret details. One is aesthetic and the other is a function. Most people will want the frets to extend all the way to the edge of the FB but not be able to feel them when playing. Sometimes necks shrink a little in very dry climates and you have to re-do the ends. The same thing happens in reverse but no one complains because you can't feel it.
If you want to cut your frets ever so slightly shy of the edge of the FB and dress them before installing that is your call. There are a few builders who do that. It has everything to do with feel and nothing to do with whether the FB is bound or not.
Perhaps some photo's will help. These came from a double neck acoustic I did a couple of years back.
After the FB is bound and installed (some people fret before installing) I level and then file a small V into the top of the kerfs. This helps the fret go in, keeps the FB from chipping if a fret needs to come out but most importantly allows for the micro fillet that is at the intersection of the crown and the fret tang.
This photo shows two systems for nipping off the tang to accommodate the binding. With either system I find it best to use a fine file to remove the burr left over from removing the tang.
Then install, dress and polish.
Really not all that much trouble for a much better look.
Greg N
Greg ... I really like how those veneers run from the headstock through all the length of the neck under the fretboard!!
In that shot I am buffing out the fret with a buffing wheel on a dremel tool with compound . The shield is to keep from buffing compound off the fret board.
Greg N
