I was wondering what would be the best finish,(tough)) to use on a American Standard Bass with a black stained/painted MAPLE FINGERBOARD?? any help out would be much appreciated!!
thanx <*)))>(
thanx <*)))>(
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Double Bass fingerboard finish
- Thread starter bluegrasscat
- Start date
Jake deVilliers
Commercial User
- May 24, 2006
- 6,349
- 607
- Disclosures
- Owner of The Bass Spa, String Repairman at Long & McQuade Vancouver
Wrong side cat - this is DB land.
True but.......
I was wondering what would be the best finish,(tough)) to use on a American Standard Bass with a black stained/painted MAPLE FINGERBOARD?? any help out would be much appreciated!!
Hot stuff [supper glue] it is costly but it is just great. Just put some on a cloth and wipe on the board, let it dry, scuff with 0000 steel wool, wipe clean with a dry cloth, repeat about 12 times. You have to be quick with your application though, as you built up the layers the catalyst in the previous coat will make the coat you are applying dry faster each time. Then wet sand with 2000 grit sandpaper and then buff.
Actually I did this on a Pao ferro DB finger board and a maple EUB board I made, it has held up amazingly. Should work on a BG.
I put polyurethane on my rosewood about a week after I got it. I applied it, let it dry for about ten minuets, then wiped it all off. Looks like it has always been freshly oiled. I hate those sweat stains that soak in and discolor the wood. Ick.
That was three years ago. It never formed a glossy layer on the surface, so what did not soak in got wiped away.
So I guess it really depends on the look you are going for.
That was three years ago. It never formed a glossy layer on the surface, so what did not soak in got wiped away.
So I guess it really depends on the look you are going for.
He said "American Standard" bass--is there an American Standard electric bass???
Anyway, regarding finishes. Cyanoacrylate (super glue) is not nearly as strong as epoxy resins.
He's gotta mean electric bass--nobody would do that to a Double bass right?? Was there ever a maple fingerboard on a DB?
bob
Anyway, regarding finishes. Cyanoacrylate (super glue) is not nearly as strong as epoxy resins.
He's gotta mean electric bass--nobody would do that to a Double bass right?? Was there ever a maple fingerboard on a DB?
bob
well this UPRIGHT BASS!! has a maple finger board, yes.. and no on the electric!! this was definatley a budget bass when new!!
thanx for your inputs phase / modder/ mud! LOL Jake!!
thanx for your inputs phase / modder/ mud! LOL Jake!!
- May 6, 2003
- 5,272
- 160
- 64
- Disclosures
- Proprietor Fifth Avenue Fret Shop. Technical Editor Bass Gear Magazine
Yes, both American Standard Precision and American Standard Jazz basses were made by Fender from the middle 80's to 2000something. They did have maple fretless fingerboard options that were painted with polyurethane.
There are also Maple double bass fingerboards on some lower dollar basses, and it wouldn't surprise me if an American Standard bass was wearing one. As far as I know finishing a double bass fingerboard is inappropriate, although who knows with maple. I wouldn't really want a maple board in any case. If it were me and I liked the bass I'd save my pennies for an excellent Ebony board that required no finish.
I do agree that West Systems epoxy can make an excellent fingerboard finish if one is required and can be trued up similar to wood.
If the board is in good playing order, simply scuff it , mask off the whole bass and spray the board with black gloss enamel. The next effort level would be to completly strip the board, make sure it is in good playing order, then oil it (leaving it natural or black die)just like you would an ebony board. Any attempts to coat the board with epoxy would be a gamble and not worth the effort.
thanx Toad and idahohay
yeah i hear ya here Toad.. i was a bit suprised when i found out it was maple, i'm glad that it isnt mine. its a friends bass, whos kid knocked it over!!
thanks for the sugestions!!
yeah i hear ya here Toad.. i was a bit suprised when i found out it was maple, i'm glad that it isnt mine. its a friends bass, whos kid knocked it over!!
thanks for the sugestions!!
Jake deVilliers
Commercial User
- May 24, 2006
- 6,349
- 607
- Disclosures
- Owner of The Bass Spa, String Repairman at Long & McQuade Vancouver
Sorry cat, I thought you were talking slab.
I use linseed oil, others around here use Watco Danish oil - its important that its a drying oil.
I don't put other finishes on DB fingerboards - usually I'm being paid to remove them!
I use linseed oil, others around here use Watco Danish oil - its important that its a drying oil.
I don't put other finishes on DB fingerboards - usually I'm being paid to remove them!
Has anybody used epoxy on a DB board? Seems pretty nice on BG boards I've played... How about stabilized woods? Maybe I'll start a new thread.
- May 6, 2003
- 5,272
- 160
- 64
- Disclosures
- Proprietor Fifth Avenue Fret Shop. Technical Editor Bass Gear Magazine
But when selecting an ebony board, isn't the objective generally to strive for the hardest, densist ppiece of wood possible? Wouldn't say, a resin impregnated slab fit that bill as well or better than a nice slab of ebony, or on the hardness issue, an epoxy coating?
No worries there Jake!! i knew what u were saying!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncletoad View Post
It's generally not a sound DB players go for.
I wouldn't do it on a DB fingerboard.
toman But when selecting an ebony board, isn't the objective generally to strive for the hardest, densist ppiece of wood possible? Wouldn't say, a resin impregnated slab fit that bill as well or better than a nice slab of ebony, or on the hardness issue, an epoxy coating?
hmmm, toman. good point!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncletoad View Post
It's generally not a sound DB players go for.
I wouldn't do it on a DB fingerboard.
toman But when selecting an ebony board, isn't the objective generally to strive for the hardest, densist ppiece of wood possible? Wouldn't say, a resin impregnated slab fit that bill as well or better than a nice slab of ebony, or on the hardness issue, an epoxy coating?
hmmm, toman. good point!!
- May 6, 2003
- 5,272
- 160
- 64
- Disclosures
- Proprietor Fifth Avenue Fret Shop. Technical Editor Bass Gear Magazine
Epoxy is not a tonewood. It doesn't sound right. When going for an acoustic sound tonewoods are crucial.
Jake deVilliers
Commercial User
- May 24, 2006
- 6,349
- 607
- Disclosures
- Owner of The Bass Spa, String Repairman at Long & McQuade Vancouver
"Epoxy is not a tonewood."
+1 Right on Phil.
Hey cat, you might want to do a forum search for Carbon fibre fingerboards. That topic was whacked around on these pages not too long ago. Similar conclusion, if I remember correctly. Graphite is not a tone wood either.
Stick with the maple board. As long as its pretty thick it will serve well for a long time. Sanded smooth and oiled they feel great.
+1 Right on Phil.
Hey cat, you might want to do a forum search for Carbon fibre fingerboards. That topic was whacked around on these pages not too long ago. Similar conclusion, if I remember correctly. Graphite is not a tone wood either.
Stick with the maple board. As long as its pretty thick it will serve well for a long time. Sanded smooth and oiled they feel great.
Try Birchwood Casey's Tru oil, it's made for gun stocks. I'm not sure what it's made from but it's some kind of drying oil and it seems to dry harder and thicker than boiled linseed oil or Watco.
"Epoxy is not a tonewood."
+1 Right on Phil.
Hey cat, you might want to do a forum search for Carbon fibre fingerboards. That topic was whacked around on these pages not too long ago. Similar conclusion, if I remember correctly. Graphite is not a tone wood either.
Stick with the maple board. As long as its pretty thick it will serve well for a long time. Sanded smooth and oiled they feel great.
I've played the composite cello boards, and thought they felt better than ebony and sounded fine. As far as tonewood goes, just how much resonating is a fingerboard going to do, and if the material is comparable to good ebony in hardness and mass, then wouldn't it be a moot point?
I know most people aren't crazy about using anything but fine wood on instruments, but exotic wood isn't getting any more common or any cheaper. I for one am all in favor of modernizing a few aspects of the double bass!
again thanx guys, for all the input!!
can the watco / e.c.t go over a stain or not??? i know epoxy can.. not to sure about drying oils!!! if this bass was mine i would be rippin that maple off. but its not.. so far i am 50/50 on drying oils vs epoxy..
lol..
can the watco / e.c.t go over a stain or not??? i know epoxy can.. not to sure about drying oils!!! if this bass was mine i would be rippin that maple off. but its not.. so far i am 50/50 on drying oils vs epoxy..
lol..
