Finish for Walnut

[MCS4]

Tru-Oil over walnut and maple. I'd call this "semi-gloss", but if you really want satin, it can easily be knocked back with a grey or white scotchbrite. It's not as durable as wipe-on poly, but I think maybe a little harder drying than Watco.

I'm also very happy with Tru-Oil on my walnut/maple Carvin. I've used Tung Oil on walnut before as well, including on this same bass, but I think the Tru-Oil looks at least as good, if not better, and provides much better protection (although agreed that it is not remotely at the level of protection of poly).

 

[bherman]

I use walnut a bunch in instrument builds. HERE is a short photo essay on finishing walnut with my favorite European hard oil, Osmo PolyX satin oil. I didn't "vote" in the poll because Osmo PolyX isn't any of those choices; it's really a much better product than the other choices listed.

I agree with this 100%, just finished a walnut table and used this finish. Simple to apply, looks great with 2 coats.

 

[drumrtommy]

I recently bought a natural finish walnut bass as a custom build. I wanted it left natural as I couldn’t decide on the finish and I thought natural might be fine anyway. It’s a great looking instrument but the grain is more open than I expected and I want a smoother finish. I also want to show the grain off more. I’m not a luthier but I have furniture restoration experience. I’m thinking of Danish oil as I’ve heard that works well with open grain. I also have beeswax here but would that get stuck in the open grain and look bad? I don’t really like glossy finishes.
What is your go to finish for walnut tops?

Osmo polyx or Rubio are awesome hardwax oils. I got the builder from TJS drums locally to go from a tung oil/carnuba wax blend to osmo!

Two coats and you’re done, you can get ceramic coats if you want more protection, I did osmo satin for these pieces a few years back

 

[Yonni]

Osmo polyx or Rubio are awesome hardwax oils. I got the builder from TJS drums locally to go from a tung oil/carnuba wax blend to osmo!

Two coats and you’re done, you can get ceramic coats if you want more protection, I did osmo satin for these pieces a few years back

Beautiful work

 

[Jazzdogg]

I've done this on walnut table tops and second it. You're essentially wet sanding with the oil, using the slurry made with the actual wood as pore filler.

It takes time, but it can look fantastic.

It's also a very forgiving finish to apply and repair; one of the reasons it was the first finishing method I taught new students.

 

[Brian Patterson]

You can use a tinted pore filler to accentuate the grain. Follow with clear abd finish matte. Be sure your finish is compatible with the pores filler.

Totally agree - a dark filler like would look good and work with any oil based finish. Alternately, Walnut stain makes sense as it evens out uneven wood tones which are common - unless it will be darker than you like. Go gradually and you find the perfect color you want. I love Walnut...

 

[Brian Patterson]

My bass is a walnut body “studio” finish - not flashy, really just about raw wood and nice pickups.

I did the “oil and dust” via Watco Danish oil (or a similar polymerized danish oil) and steel wool wet sanding for the first few applications. That handled most of the grain filling for me. After that I did a handful of applications with a cotton rag. Then finished with a couple coats Renaissance Wax to work it up towards a satin finish. I don’t think it ever made it to proper satin, but it’s probably more comparable to a really nice brand new cutting board.

Overall, I’m very happy with it, and it’s held up well enough without any maintenance over the last couple years. At first I’d wished that I’d tinted it to warm up the color a touch, but it’s warmed on its own over time. It could probably take a light sanding and refresh on the wax soon.

Maybe not the most glamorous finish, but stupid simple, especially if you don’t have any experience with finishing.

View attachment 7323895View attachment 7323896

Yeah, I woulda done some stain to pull back the differing grain patterns and overall light tone. Still, it's a beauty - play it and be happy!

 

[mapleglo]

I did this build in Danish oil. Very easy to apply and dries over night.

 

[Jazzdogg]

I use walnut a bunch in instrument builds. HERE is a short photo essay on finishing walnut with my favorite European hard oil, Osmo PolyX satin oil. I didn't "vote" in the poll because Osmo PolyX isn't any of those choices; it's really a much better product than the other choices listed.

Please share your reasons; why, speifically, is it "a much better product than the other choices listed."?

Not a challenge, genuinely interested.

 

[drumrtommy]

Please share your reasons; why, speifically, is it "a much better product than the other choices listed."?

Not a challenge, genuinely interested.

I’ll let others say their opinion. I wouldn’t say it’s better, it’s just a different flavor.

It’s low VOC, really easy to apply, very forgiving, a little goes a long way, if you need to reapply it’s no big deal you can patch no problem. If you use polyurethane or others you can get easy streaks and not be able to patch as easily.

That said, it doesn’t really offer protection so a ceramic coating would be needed if you really want that, but again the bonus of all that is just really easy to apply.

I enjoy endurovar by general finishes but I’ve never used that on a guitar body.

I’ve actually never used danish oil but it is on my list, I’ve tried tru oil and it wasn’t for me, and with tung oil you have to get genuine stuff and it takes awhile to cure.

This was a fun project to see what I could do, a shop made veneer, hide glue, and a gel poly. Wasnt perfect but was really fun

Don’t mean to hijack the thread, I just love woodworking and instruments!

 

[Pep]

Ok, ok, here you go!

I would just oil & wax it. Beautiful!

 

[Beej]

Another vote for Osmo Polyx. For the diyer, it's cheap, flexible, easily repairable and dead simple to apply. I grain fill with tinted epoxy, sand back and use osmo for a satin finish and a buttery smooth feel.

 

[rudy4444]

Please share your reasons; why, speifically, is it "a much better product than the other choices listed."?

Not a challenge, genuinely interested.

I have the details listed in the link if you care to read it.

 

[Yonni]

Don’t mean to hijack the thread, I just love woodworking and instruments!

No worries, all shared knowledge/experience is helpful and improves the TalkBass hive mind.

 

[Videojunkie]

Amber Shellac

This is the correct answer. Although I used a ruby shellac on The SCP...

 

[johnh89]

Liberon black bison wax . Reapply every 6 months or so .

 

[Flying B]

As others have said, osmo or rubio are both good choices, and both available here in the uk. Osmo definitely the more wallet friendly option.
This is walnut with Rubio.

 

[SomewhatHarmles]

Tru-Oil over walnut and maple. I'd call this "semi-gloss", but if you really want satin, it can easily be knocked back with a grey or white scotchbrite. It's not as durable as wipe-on poly, but I think maybe a little harder drying than Watco.

Did you hand carve that bass? Dang!

 

[Gilmourisgod]

My brother did the carving, I built the bass. That was literally his first attempt at relief carving, which is humbling! Unsurprising, I guess, he’s good at most stuff, that was his “test carve”.

 

[Jazzdogg]

Liberon black bison wax . Reapply every 6 months or so .

My very favorite paste wax. Before I retired every completed project was delivered with written care instructions, and a can of Black Bison; I applied the final coat of wax in the customer's home as a lesson.