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First Build

to be clear, I'm not a luthier and I have no previous experience with this kind of thing but I am going to build my own bass. the neck will be bought as it completely escapes my mind how I would ever find a truss rod nevermind install one. I am thinking along the lines of an sg-style body and short scale. it will be stained dark with a light colored v-shaped wood inlay on the body.
specs:
-top-loaded bridge
-wood knobs
-passive single humbucker or ric pup
-might do an effect circuit inside
-maple neck w/maple or rw fretboard

not everything is set in stone and I want to hear if anyone has some suggestions that they think would be better or easier. I'm kinda stumped on how I'm going to drill the holes for all the wires to go through in the confined space and so I need some tips on that and pretty much just general tips on how to do this efficiently. thanks all for help!
 
That's one of the fastest bumps I've seen around here lately :scowl: :D

I think your plans are just fine, maybe you can post some sketches so we can see what you're up to. About the holes for the wiring: using a very long drill bit usually does the trick. I myself have a 9.5" long 1/4" drill bit that I use for that. If you hold the drill at a shallow angle you can easily drill from the pickup cavities into the control cavity. For connecting the pickup cavities you can drill straight from the neck pocket through the pickup cavities. Make sure to protect your bass body with some cardboard first.
 
Patience, grasshopper. It's Sunday, and we have lives to attend to. And this sub-forum does not have close to the activity of the "Basses" sub-forum.

First piece of advice: read the new builder sticky at the top of the forum, and buy one of the recommended books.

Second, SG shaped basses are prone to neck dive. The short scale will help with this, as will using ultralite tuners. Keep your bridge down near the butt of the bass, rather than in guitar position.
 
roberthabraken said:
That's one of the fastest bumps I've seen around here lately :scowl: :D

I think your plans are just fine, maybe you can post some sketches so we can see what you're up to. About the holes for the wiring: using a very long drill bit usually does the trick. I myself have a 9.5" long 1/4" drill bit that I use for that. If you hold the drill at a shallow angle you can easily drill from the pickup cavities into the control cavity. For connecting the pickup cavities you can drill straight from the neck pocket through the pickup cavities. Make sure to protect your bass body with some cardboard first.

it was a half hour ;) and I just realized that without a pg, how the hell am I supposed to wire my pots and everything? I can't very well route a control cavity for them
 
it was a half hour ;) and I just realized that without a pg, how the hell am I supposed to wire my pots and everything? I can't very well route a control cavity for them

I know it was half an hour, the time of your posts appears on top of it.. that's why I said it's the quickest bump I've seen (your thread couldn't have dropped that much in the overview in such a short period of time, right?).

It doesn't really matter if you use a pickguard or use a control cavity from the back, it's a cavity either way that needs to be routed. On the front, you'll cover it with a PG, on the back you'll cover it with a control cavity cover.

If you do not have confidence in your routing skills you might want to practise first, since with electric guitar building, the router is an almost indispensable tool.
 
pilotjones said:
Patience, grasshopper. It's Sunday, and we have lives to attend to. And this sub-forum does not have close to the activity of the "Basses" sub-forum.

First piece of advice: read the new builder sticky at the top of the forum, and buy one of the recommended books.

Second, SG shaped basses are prone to neck dive. The short scale will help with this, as will using ultralite tuners. Keep your bridge down near the butt of the bass, rather than in guitar position.

high mass bridge like a badass II would help too right?
 
wow I'm stupid, didn't even think of that............and a half hour isn't that bad it was like 87th in the list

Bumping in the LC is sort of like waiting for a package. Wait a couple business days before calling the post office...

high mass bridge like a badass II would help too right?

In general, I don't think builders choose a high mass bridge to correct neck dive. It is usually a choice made to improve sustain and tone transfer. When referring to neck dive, having a bridge that weighs an extra ounce or two is fairly insignificant compared to its location on the body.
 
(...) ............and a half hour isn't that bad it was like 87th in the list

Well, if you go the Luthier's Corner, you see an average post will stay on the first page for days. Maybe you've looked at the homepage of TB? Anyways.. let's forget about that. Onto your bass plans! :smug:

(...) In general, I don't think builders choose a high mass bridge to correct neck dive. It is usually a choice made to improve sustain and tone transfer. When referring to neck dive, having a bridge that weighs an extra ounce or two is fairly insignificant compared to its location on the body.

Indeed, a heavy mass bridge is not going to solve your neck dive issue. The SG is a guitar design and the functional design of the body doesn't really compensate the heavier necks you see on basses. A headless version would help you out, but I think that's more complex than the build you've planned.
 
You are free to build it any way you want. Yes get your friend's SG and use that as a template.

Invalid Link Removed has lots of good stuff, including truss rods.

Welcome to Guitarfetish for good inexpensive pickups and tuners.

Luthiers Mercantile International, Inc. Guitar Builder Wood and Supplies for fingerboards. They can slot and radius them for you as well. Beats trying to buy all those tools for 1 job.

Shop around on the net and check out the sponsors for stuff as well.