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First (documented) Build, The Iceman Cometh

Not my first build, but I'm really bad at stopping what I'm doing to take pictures. This time around I'll try to do better at stopping and documenting the process. For the record, I learned everything I know (what little I do know) from watching build threads here on this forum, so a quick tip of the hat to Jio, Mapleglow, CTMullins, Ric5, blablas and many others who’s names escape me, but their bass’ don’t.

So anyway, on with the show. Submitted for your thoughts, comments and criticism is the following build.

A short scale, reverse Ibanez Iceman inspired 5 string. I’ll throw an EMG PJ-X set of pick ups on to this bad boy with Volume/Balance/EMG BTS System for controls. I’m thinking a black finish with gold hardware.

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Neck will be bolt on, it actually started life as a Fender Jaguar 4 string neck, here's the nod to Ric5 :)
I'll be cutting a new nut during the 4 to 5 string conversion and using individual bridges to achive 15mm string spacing at the bridge. It will be a little tight, but seeing as how I have paws for hands, it won't be to bad. Most of my other builds have used 16mm spacing.

The body is basswood (which I learned is pronounced like the fish, not the guitar). I picked up 8 board feet (enough for 2 bodies) of 8/4 (2” thick) basswood at a local hardwood supplier for $22.50 (U.S.), had it milled down to 7/4 (1 3/4”) by a custom cabinet shop by trading a 12 pack of cold coca-cola to the shop foremen on a 90 degree (f) day :)
 
That glueing looks like it's not ok. Looks like there's a gap between the blanks. I'd saw the glue line, plane the surfaces and glue it again.

I understand why you'd want to fix any obvious imperfections but I'm curious about what the major problem is with an imperfect body blank join. Is it more likely to come apart under tension or is it more a problem of resonance?
 
I understand why you'd want to fix any obvious imperfections but I'm curious about what the major problem is with an imperfect body blank join. Is it more likely to come apart under tension or is it more a problem of resonance?
Well, aside from that being an obvious imperfection--by the appearance of the pic, the joint is only making contact at the two ends, with a huge gap (big enough to look huge in a web photo) through most of the middle. One end of the joint may be trimmed away near the tail depending on how the body shape lines up; the other end will certainly be removed with shaping, and then neck pocket creation. This would leave a body that would crack in half the first time it receives a moderate jolt.

If the gap is an illusion, for example if one side is glued higher than the other and what we are seeing is a dark shadow rather than a gap, then this does not apply.
 
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Nice! Love that shot with all of the forstner holes! A classic shape, too, good choice, although I've never seen one reversed, so that's new. :)
 
Are you going to be able to get to the upper frets? I ordered a body and neck for a 5er iceman from Warmoth and I'm just waiting on it. I'm psyched to build mine and psyched to see this one.

A good point. Maybe a deep scallop would help. I did this with a T-bird bodied fretless I made. It kept the profile but aided in accessing the lower frets. Something to consider.
 
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A good point. Maybe a deep scallop would help. I did this with a T-bird bodied fretless I made. It kept the profile but aided in accessing the lower frets. Something to consider.

JIO, I hadn't thought of that, but now I'm giving some serious thought to a scallop much like your forearm scallop on the amazing "supernova" you're building.

Sadly, the Iceman, the SteinBacher, the short scale Explorer & the headless T-Bird builds I've got going are all on hold until my right arm heals from a rotator cuff surgery scheduled on 2014.06.19.
 
Really interesting- still keeps the style while improving balance, etc.
One thing to check before mounting, tho, is the angle of the bridges:
it's easy to run out of adjustment if they are too much different than saddles usually are when intonation is set.
You can measure from the nut on an existing bass you have for comparison.
Also, if you like tapered strings, they sometimes need the saddles a bit farther forward.
 
JIO, I hadn't thought of that, but now I'm giving some serious thought to a scallop much like your forearm scallop on the amazing "supernova" you're building.

Sadly, the Iceman, the SteinBacher, the short scale Explorer & the headless T-Bird builds I've got going are all on hold until my right arm heals from a rotator cuff surgery scheduled on 2014.06.19.

Here's my 23 'fret' (actually 25 on the E-string w/the drop D capo open!) Factorbird fretless - the bevel is a bit hard to translate in one pic so I'm posting two.

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Sadly, the Iceman, the SteinBacher, the short scale Explorer & the headless T-Bird builds I've got going are all on hold until my right arm heals from a rotator cuff surgery scheduled on 2014.06.19.

Sorry to hear about your right arm and best of luck w/the surgery - Steinbacher? Have you seen this? - http://www.talkbass.com/threads/coming-soon-steinbacker-fretless-bass.858532/page-11#post-13689207 And a headless T-bird? Ha! We're on the same page twice here!

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That scope/scallop is brilliant! I'd seen that build tread, but totally forgot that detail., it's going to be incorporated into the T-Bird, The SS Explorer & the Iceman.

My Steinbacher is a Ric' 4001 inspired body, with a genuine steinberger 5 string system, 2 MM style pick ups, and a domdec314 reverse engineered MM 3 band eq
 
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